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Help. Drip from valve/pipe Williamson GWA 105 NT Gas
foxievie
Member Posts: 3
in Gas Heating
Hi All! New here & hoping I could get some input before my husband and I make decision to hire plumber to come out.
So we bought our house last year July 2019, and it went thru an oil to gas heat conversion (we live in north NJ). That being said, it was the first full winter season the Williamson GWA 105 NT model was used. All is new including the hot water tank, etc. All winter no issues with heat, or any pipe/valve drips.
Spring has sprung for the most part and we lowered the Nest thermostats to economy since we don’t have to run the heat as much. We noticed now that when it’s not running, there is a constant drip from a pipe. Not sure what the pipe actually is called
I have pics that I am including. Not sure why it’s dripping now and if its something we can remedy or should we call out a plumber? Any input much appreciated.
So we bought our house last year July 2019, and it went thru an oil to gas heat conversion (we live in north NJ). That being said, it was the first full winter season the Williamson GWA 105 NT model was used. All is new including the hot water tank, etc. All winter no issues with heat, or any pipe/valve drips.
Spring has sprung for the most part and we lowered the Nest thermostats to economy since we don’t have to run the heat as much. We noticed now that when it’s not running, there is a constant drip from a pipe. Not sure what the pipe actually is called
I have pics that I am including. Not sure why it’s dripping now and if its something we can remedy or should we call out a plumber? Any input much appreciated.
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Comments
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Ah… that is your pressure relief valve. That is an essential safety device, and it is telling you is -- or was at some point and it failed to seat properly, which isn't unusual -- is too high.
Somewhere on your system there should be a pressure gauge. What does it read? It shouldn't read more than 20 psi -- more likely 15 -- with the boiler off and cold, and with the boiler running it shouldn't go up more than a few pounds.
There are a number of reasons why your system might have overpressured, but without knowing what the pressure gauge reads cold and hot it's a little hard to diagnose.
Unless you are handy, you will probably have to get a good heating man in to fix the problem -- whatever it is. There are a number we know of in your area; check "Find a Contractor" above.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England1 -
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> @EBEBRATT-Ed said:
> So you need the relief valve problem fixed and also have them check and remount the expansion tank properly.....it should be vertical before that breaks and causes a flood. You installer should do both for free.
That ☝️ plus the extrol tank might very well be the cause of the relief valve leak.
You can see its heavily weighted. The diaphragm probably burst.
Get the contractor back.
P.S. you should be able to pull the copper pipe out a little so the bucket can sit under it. Pull it towards the camera.1 -
Looking at your expansion tank, sticking out to the left in your last picture. It could be water logged judging by the angle it is hanging in may be full of water.
There is an air schrader valve on the end of it under the blue cap.
There should be no water comming out of it if you depress the inner stem. (like a tire valve stem).
The expansion tank should have mostly air in it that gets compressed as the water heats up and expands. If you have no air or not enough in the tank then the boiler pressure builds up and your relief valve passes water when 30 PSI is reached.
That is a bad install of the tank in that it puts strain on the connecting pipe which is obvious.
You most likely need a new tank and different mounting so little pressure is put on the connecting pipe as now.
The horizontal pipe going to the tank looks to be supported good, it just needs a 90 elbow to point down and have the tank hang on it. This should have been obvious to the original installer.1 -
I'm guessing the expansion tank, too, folks -- and it certainly does need to be properly supported. That installation is a hack job. But the automatic feed pressure reducing valve could also be bad... the pressure gauge will tell the tale.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England1 -
You guys are the best. Thank you alllll for your help and fast responses.
Unfortunately we don’t know the contractor that did this install when we bought the house it was already done.
Ok we think we get it. So basically our best bet is calling in a heat contractor and definitely point out what you all have mentioned.
Yep. PSI looks to be at 20. System is off right now
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@Jamie Hall yep 20 psi with system currently off0
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That's good. The pressure regulating valve is probably doing it's thing just as it should. I'm almost certain that it's that expansion tank. As others have said, they get waterlogged -- and then exactly what you are seeing happens.
But please have the new one installed so it is properly supported... it's not a hard job.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England1 -
@foxievie , there are several good contractors in North Jersey. Go here to find one:
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/state/NJAll Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
I can almost guarantee that system is a mono flow system and that Taco 007 circulator that’s currently on the boiler won’t cut it.
@foxievie I own and operate a plumbing & heating company in north NJ you can reach us at 201-499-0223.0
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