Residential Steam piping

Pipestretcher

Hello All,
I've been installing a lot of PEG 35 - PEG 65 boilers. We have a standard header and equalizer package for installs. My question is where I could learn more about making the proper connections to existing supply piping?

I've had to do a lot of rework on supply connections and want to get a solid footing on this area of the system.

Are swing joints needed between the header takeoff and existing piping? Where is the best place to adapt to existing pipes?

Thanks

EBEBRATT-Ed

If you pre piping the header and equalizer (which it sounds like you are doing) then you have no choice but to make the existing steam mains fit to the header.

1 the steam mains coming off the header should come off the top of the header.

2 Each steam main should have it's own takeoff from the header

3. The take offs in the header should be the same size of the steam main that they feed (larger is ok)

4. You don't have to have swing joints in the mains coming off the header but if the steam main leaves the header and pitches up (counter flow) or down then you need swing joints to do it properly

5. You do need swing joints between the boiler and the header

SeanBeans

Are you in the NJ area?

Pipestretcher

Ed - Thanks for the insight.

Yes, header and equalizer. (What would the alternative to this be?)

On #4 - if the pipe off the header is level, swing joints are not needed?

In general, is there a central thought or "header" philosophy to keep in mind when piping for steam - piping the header?

Thanks again.

Yes I'm in NJ

mikeg2015

The main philosophy is to follow the manual in term of minimum height and that a minimum. Higher is better. That why a lot of the best pros here do drop headers. You can have the initial supply header higher than the connection to the main.

The other is to always use both supply connectionS, full size regardless of boiler size. The the header is At least one size larger than those pipes.


Use crosses on the return connections with a full size plug to allow future flushing or pressure wash wand inside the boiler.

Use tees on all other return connections with a valve to flush mud.

Bring the return in low as possible and use at least 2” pipe to create a “mud leg” To allow crud from the system to settle out before it enters the boiler. Condensate flow rate is very low. So a 2” pipe or better yet 2-1/2” or 3” horizontal pipe will settle out a lot of suspended material. So will a vertical
Down leg where a dry return drops down on 1 pipe systems. Use a tee here with a nipple and bell reducer to a ball valve to drain it.

ethicalpaul

Look in the boiler manual for this page. The good manufacturers provide a parts takeoff like this one from Peerless. Earlier you said you had a standard package for header and equalizer but then later it sounded like you didn't so here you go