I’m back to ask a series of questions about my gas hot water heater.
I currently have a 40 gallon, GAS fired, GE “Smart Water” heater, manufactured in August of 2007.
Everything has been fine until one afternoon I started to hear that annoying beep from my Zircon Leak Alert/Water Leak Detector. I go downstairs and notice a small amount of water underneath the long copper pipe that is used for the temperature and pressure relief value discharge.
I searched around on Google/YouTube and came across lots of information that told me to start by changing the T & P value. No need (yet) to call a plumber for a $17.00 part, easy swap in, swap out, just put pipe dope on the threads and make sure to bleed the air out of the system – easy enough. I purchased the same P & T value, Watts ¾” 100XL-4 M7 150 psi/ 210 F, 105,000 BTU/hr.
I will include pictures of my old nasty T & P valve that has a lot of calcium deposits on it. Based upon the age of the T & P valve I thought that was the issue.
Things were good (dry) for a couple of days and just today I notice water in the bottom “trough” that the hot water heater sits in. Going back to the Internet (again) some suggested the Thermal Expansion tank also be need to be changed because that could have been the original issue.
I plan on changing the Thermal Expansion tank this weekend, under $50.00. I guess I have to wait and see if that does the trick, but here are some of my questions going forward:
1. I used a tire pressure gauge on the Thermal Expansion tank (next to the hot water heater) and it was 75 psi. I thought that was a bit high – thoughts? I know they come pre-charged from the factory and you need to “match” your cold water pressure to that of the tank.
2. I purchased a Watts water pressure tester from Home Depot and tested the domestic cold water in three spots in the basement (I had gate valves to screw onto). All three read 80 psi
, again that seemed a bit high to me – Is that too high?
3. Maybe the real issue in the incoming water pressure and I need a pressure regulator on the cold line for the potable water? I believe I already have a pressure regulator on the pipes just before the oil burner.
Any help is appreciated. I’m lucky that I can always shut off the ball valves and by pass the hot water heater in the event the tank really gives me an issue and I would still have hot water and heat.
Thank you in advance!
Long Island, NY