HOW TO RUN BLACK PIPE CORRECT PITCH...

hankwylerjr

I have attached a draft plan of how I intend to run my new 1 1/2 black pipe from my basement up to my new addition on the 3rd floor. (Yes I know Im no artist) My 2inch Main has unused T that is 1 1/2. I am currently trying to remove it now (might have to use more than a torch and PBlaster its pretty stuck) once this happens Im going to use a 45 with a nipple to get a good angle. Im going to run the pipe back to the wall of my basement run it to the right for about 4 feet and then use another elbow for the vertical portion where it will go through my 2nd floor about 8 feet up behind a closet. Once that happens Ill be behind a knee wall in my addition. I am wondering the best way to install a T and use two short runs one to the left and then right. What kind of pitch do I need? Do I use the street 45, regular etc.? What other fittings will I need? I use Blue Monster dope and tape never had an issue. Im about to get precise measurements today. Once the T and those runs are in (which will occur behind the knee wall yes it will be super insulated) what do I use to come through the wall because normally your pipes come up from the floor under you vertically. Here
they will come towards me in the living area.And, I need to know the correct pitch so that my rads can easily drain. Thank you

JStar

You should never add two radiators on the run of a tee like that. Guaranteed water hammer and gurgling noises. One rad should come out of the bull. And both rads should be above the supply line level so steam doesn't clash with returning condensate. Your situation needs to be absolutely perfect to work right. There are so many variables to go wrong.

Jamie Hall

Folks always seem to have trouble -- understandably -- with pitch on horizontal runs connected (at either end) to vertical risers -- and that's no surprise, since 90 degree elbows are, by definition, 90 degrees. So if you use just one elbow to go from your "horizontal" run to your "vertical" run (or vice versa) you are pretty well guaranteed that either the vertical won't be vertical -- or the horizontals will be horizontal, instead of pitched.

The solution is simple. Start at your main. The bull of the T which the runout threads into should be slightly above 45 degrees above the horizontal. Nipple as needed. Then a 45 over to … not horizontal, but whatever pitch is required (that's why the T is slightly above 45 degrees). Then your nicely pitched "horizontal" runout. Now. At the other end of the runout, where you are going to go vertical, you are going to make a swing joint with two 45s and a nipple. One 45 goes up and to either the left or the right. Then a close nipple. Then another 45. Twist the two 45 relative to each other and the "horizontal" pipe to get the vertical pipe truly vertical.

hankwylerjr

@Jamie Hall awesome thank you I just wish I understood it 100 percent but I will attempt it. This is my only option far as adding the rads just want to make sure Im not getting noise and improper heating.

JUGHNE

If you look at your existing old piping as a guide, it may be more obvious. The original piping is often correct.

hankwylerjr

@JUGHNE I did and tried to incorporate it in my drawing. The only thing different is that my valves come off the vertical pipe straight up. This will have to come through the knee wall at me not sure what fittings to use its a little different. However, the piping I have is 100 percent solid 2 inch main. All of the rads are connected to the 1 1/2 never had a sound, heating issue, nothing. If I add this new run, its not going to really change everything. I have plenty of EDR left and boiler is newer. I just want to make sure I have all the correct elbows, nipples, 45's etc in the right places so I dont have to do it over or have issues and thats why i came here

JUGHNE

You can come thru the knee wall to your valve. Your valve would have the stem horizontal rather than the standard vertical.
The nipple connected to the valve needs to have a little slope down away from the rad.

Are you clear on the tee? looking at your plan you would rotate the tee as you look down at it. Have big rad come out of the side (branch) pointing left, then add short nipple going away from you and 90 to the right.

You want all the slope you can get on the horizontal lines.
Remember the water has to drain back on the bottom of the pipe as the steam travels in the opposite direction up in the upper portion of the pipe. This is where you will get water hammer.
You are stretching the all piping charts by doing this.
I would suggest to use another smaller rad rather than the large one. IMO

hankwylerjr

@JUGHNE thank you I'm getting a clear picture of what I need to do. Far as the large rad, I know it's big. I still think it will work. Maybe not but can I remove some sections out of it? If not maybe a thermo valve? Also I have a spare I can use worst case. I've seen rads with less than 1.5 on entire systems that work so I'm going to try at least. Also my rad isn't really 25 or 26 but 23 inches from the end of the colum or tube to the top. I know that these charts say from the floor to the top but actually only 4 little portions or the legs give the height 25 inches and there is hardly any steam that these feet can hold. IMO anyway. I'm not that far from the mark as the 2 inch is a half size bigger am I?

JUGHNE

I believe the main concern with your project is the length of the counter flow piping and maintaining enough slope for condensate return.
That big rad will hold a lot of cond water coming back.
Removing sections can become a project in itself.

Please let us know the outcome....feedback is always greatly appreciated.

hankwylerjr

@JUGHNE yes everything will need to be pitched properly and it should work. On the horizontal run is it an inch per 10 foot? Trust me, once it's done I'll keep everyone posted appreciate any help greatly

ethicalpaul

You can also partially cover the radiator if it turns out you need to reduce its EDR (and therefore its condensation production). I'm thinking hope for the best and plan for the worst here.

This can be with a solid built cover with a screen or with something as simple and temporary as a folded towel or blanket lying on part of it.

Right guys?

ps: For what it's worth--nothing haha, I feel like you are going to be in good shape with that 1-1/2" line.

JUGHNE

My baited breath is so bad I have to brush!

Hap_Hazzard

ethicalpaul said:

You can also partially cover the radiator if it turns out you need to reduce its EDR (and therefore its condensation production). I'm thinking hope for the best and plan for the worst here.

This can be with a solid built cover with a screen or with something as simple and temporary as a folded towel or blanket lying on part of it.

Right guys?

Right. Apparently metallic paint makes them smaller too.