Garage Oil Tank barriers

KenB06070

I'm looking for some guidance on what type of oil tank protection should be installed in a garage. Online research only indicated to "make sure it's protected from motor vehicles."

It's an existing 275 Gal tank in a very small residential car garage. So clearances are going to be tight. Garage has not been used for years and I want to make it acceptable for use.

And input appreciated.

BinDerSmokDat

I don't know of any code (not that there isn't one, I just don't know it) for this that specifies what protection should be used.

I'm guessing you'd want to use something similar to what gas stations use to protect gas pumps.
This is usually concrete filled bollards sunk in the ground.

It will depend on the position. If the tank is alongside the car when it's pulling into the garage, chances of hitting it hard enough to cause a problem are slim.
If it's in front of the car when it's pulled into the garage you would need concrete filled bollards. Lots of cases of someone's foot slipping off the brake and/or hitting the gas pulling into the garage and going through the back wall. Add an oil tank and now you have a mess.

My tank is outside, sitting on a 5' wide by 7' long pad between the house and the driveway and has been for 20+ years. It gets driven past and parked next to a few times a day. Never came close to hitting it or even dinging it with a car door. No protection, but I probably have more room than a small single car garage.

pecmsg

KenB06070 said:

I'm looking for some guidance on what type of oil tank protection should be installed in a garage. Online research only indicated to "make sure it's protected from motor vehicles."

It's an existing 275 Gal tank in a very small residential car garage. So clearances are going to be tight. Garage has not been used for years and I want to make it acceptable for use.

And input appreciated.

C Y A

Check with the local JHA (Building Dept) and see what they require. Might as well check with your insurance carrier and see if they allow it and under what conditions.

Icarus

For protection of furnaces in garages, we used to cast in the slab 3” schedule 80 galvanized pipe about 3’ long. Ideally, we would cast in a sleeve so that the pipe would slide into the sleeve in the slab to make the pipes easily removable for service.

Icarus

STEVEusaPA

BinDerSmokDat said:

I don't know of any code (not that there isn't one, I just don't know it) for this that specifies what protection should be used.

I'll bite. With what codes are you familiar?
It's not very helpful to reply to question about a code, by admitting you are not familiar with the code.

You do have to follow guidelines in NFPA 31 regarding installation, anchoring, filling/venting to the outside, proper distance from flammable/open flame (5ft horizontally, unless separated by a barrier having a 1 hour fire resistance rating, extending horizontally at least 1ft past the tank...and extending vertically from floor to ceiling...).

AHJ has sole authority on any special barricades, markings on the building for fire department, etc.

pecmsg

STEVEusaPA said:

BinDerSmokDat said:

I don't know of any code (not that there isn't one, I just don't know it) for this that specifies what protection should be used.

I'll bite. With what codes are you familiar?
It's not very helpful to reply to question about a code, by admitting you are not familiar with the code.

You do have to follow guidelines in NFPA 31 regarding installation, anchoring, filling/venting to the outside, proper distance from flammable/open flame (5ft horizontally, unless separated by a barrier having a 1 hour fire resistance rating, extending horizontally at least 1ft past the tank...and extending vertically from floor to ceiling...).

AHJ has sole authority on any special barricades, markings on the building for fire department, etc.

Only if the LAJ has adopted those regulations.

Jamie Hall

May I assume, just for the moment, that common sense might be used in addition to Code -- or in place of it, if one isn't there?

Let's see what we have. An oil tank with up to 275 gallons of #2 in it, located in a garage. A vehicle, weighting 3,000 pounds, approaching said garage -- and tank -- at perhaps 5 mph. Driver becomes distracted (the dog runs across the drive). Vehicle hits tank.

As someone once said, you can't fix stupid, but perhaps you can put up barriers to mitigate the problem.

If there is nothing in code, then you need to have barriers which cannot be penetrated by a vehicle at any angle (a sideswipe is almost worse -- nice source of ignition sparks there after the tank ruptures) and which are able to stop the vehicle before either it or the barriers can touch the tank.

I'd be thinking in terms of 4 inch heavy wall steel pipe bollards, concrete filled, no more than 3 feet apart and 3 feet from the tank, founded in poured concrete footings (min. 12 inch diameter) to a depth of 4 feet.

Intplm.

Lally column floor to ceiling if able. Or a ballard type barrier.
Two, should be used if the oil tank is installed at the back of the garage.

EdTheHeaterMan

Here is something I found online at https://quickenv.com/guidelines-for-installing-above-ground-oil-tanks/ THE VERY FIRST PARAGRAPH HAS REFERENCE TO A FEW "CODES" @BinDerSmokDat LOL. I highlighted the extensive discussion on your issue @KenB06070

GUIDELINES FOR THE INSTALLATION OF ABOVE GROUND RESIDENTIAL OIL TANKS

The recommendations contained herein are considered standard industry practice for tanks constructed to NFPA 31, Standard for the Installation of Oil-Burning Equipment in the United States. Tank installations must also comply with the National Building and Fire Codes and any local codes that may apply.

Advantages of Indoor Installations

Domestic fuel oil tanks are recommended to be installed indoors whenever feasible for many reasons including the following:

A poured concrete basement floor provides the best option for a strong, stable and solid base for the tank
There should be no odors from a properly installed inside tank. If the tank begins to weep from internal corrosion, early detection is more likely with an indoor tank than with one located outside. Early detection can save thousands of dollars in cleanup and environmental
An outside tank is subjected to the elements including extreme temperatures, rain, snow, ice, external corrosion, condensation (which leads to internal corrosion) as well as vandalism. All of these factors contribute to a reduced life expectancy, higher maintenance costs and a greater possibility of an oil leak
Inside tanks are not subjected to frozen product
Inside tanks provide better performance and less maintenance for oil heating systems because the fuel is kept at a constant temperature
Indoor Installations:

Tanks shall be installed on the lowest floor of the dwelling
Inside tank(s) shall be located not less than 5 feet (1.5 m) from any fuel-fired equipment
The tank shall be placed in an area where it is unlikely to be adversely affected by normal household activities
Tanks shall be placed in an area where they can be visually inspected from all sides. If feasible, maintain a minimum separation of 2 in (50 mm)
Tanks located in garage bays shall be provided with adequate protection from vehicles
Outdoor Installations:

Aboveground outside tanks shall be located in conformance with the following:

Tanks must not block building entrances or windows including basement
A single tank can be placed next to a propane cylinder with a capacity of 125 gallon (475 l) or less. If the capacity of either tank exceeds these volumes, the separation shall be not less than 20 feet (6 m).
Tank(s) with a 275 gallon (1,150 l) capacity or less shall be not less than 5 feet (1.5 m) from a property line. Variances may be requested from the authority having jurisdiction of the site where the property is located
Tank(s) over 275 gallon (1,150 l) capacity shall be not less than 10 feet (3 m) from a property
The tank(s) should be located down grade from any domestic drinking water well
If possible, tanks should not be located directly under house eaves where they may be subject to falling snow and icicles or increased external pitting from dripping water
Tanks should not be placed in intimate contact with the building since leaves and other organic matter can accumulate and cause external corrosion of the tank
Protection from Vehicle Traffic

Tanks located in areas exposed to vehicular traffic (eg. driveways) shall be provided with adequate protection.

Tank Stability

All outside tank(s) are at risk of movement, especially new installations placed on recently disturbed ground and shall be installed on a prepared bedding surface with all organic materials such as sod or bark
The tank(s) shall be properly supported and centered to prevent it from shifting, settling, or falling over. The aboveground outside tank support legs shall be installed on a concrete pad or reinforced patio stones (see Figure 1). Tanks cradles are not recommended. Note: A full tank of oil weighs about 2,000 lbf ( 4500 N ).
A well drained sub grade shall also be utilized to provide appropriate drainage. 4-6 in (100-150 mm) of crushed stone.
Flood Plains and High Wind Areas

Additional stability shall be considered in flood plain areas or areas of high wind. This will require some form of shelter or anchoring that does not adversely affect the operation of the tank (e.g. if using a strap attached to a support, ensure that the strap does not cause chafing or increased corrosion).

Product Supply Lines

The product supply line(s) leading from the tank to the building shall be protected from physical damage including the weight of snow, ice or other objects which could cause the line to pinch or break and release product. Heaving frost or an application of force can snap the supply line. A supply line cover can also deter vandalism.
The product supply lines shall be installed on a decline (downward slope) from the tank to the building to prevent the accumulation of water and possible freezing of the product
To allow for frost heaving and movement, the supply line shall have a horizontal loop before entering the tank
Product supply lines shall not be less than 3/8 in (10mm) outside diameter copper tubing.1/2 in (13mm) tubing is recommended
Venting Domestic Oil Storage Tanks:

Material Specifications

The vent pipe material shall be schedule 40 black steel
Threaded joints in the vent piping shall be made fuel oil-tight using joint compound conforming to CAN/ULC-S642-M, Compounds and Tapes for Threaded Pipe Joint
Vent pipe shall be 2 inch nominal
Installation Details

All tank(s) shall be connected to a vent alarm or whistle which is an effective means of preventing spills
The fill pipe shall be 3 feet (900 mm) above the grade. The vent pipe shave be 6 inches (150 mm) above the grade
Fill and Product Piping Connections to Domestic Storage Tanks:

The fill pipe material shall be 2 in (50 mm) schedule 40 black steel
Threaded joints in the fill piping shall be made fuel oil-tight using joint compound conforming to CAN/ULC-S642-M, Compounds and Tapes for Threaded Pipe Joints, or equivalent
All connections in copper piping and tubing should be made fuel oil-tight
Product piping connections at any level below the highest level to which the liquid in the tank will rise should be provided with a shut-off valve (ideally a steel ball valve or gate valve) located as close as practicable to the tank shell. This will allow the fuel supply to the heating appliance to be shut off without excessive draining of
Product filters should:

have sufficient clearance to allow for replacement
Burying product piping is not recommended since concrete can corrode copper lines, allowing fuel to leak and unnoticed. When burying is necessary for line safety from traffic, copper tubing should be placed in a continuous run of corrosion-resistant tubing when buried under or otherwise placed in direct contact with a concrete floor or wall.
The ends of the flexible corrosion-resistant tubing should protrude at least 2 in (50 mm) above the concrete
The supply line(s) should be run as directly
Cross-connected tanks provided with a single fill pipe, shall have the fill pipe connected to the tanks in accordance with B139 or NFPA
Tank Movement and Levelling

Bottom outlet tanks must be installed with the appropriate slope (1 _ in)
Any tank(s) that has settled should have the elevation adjusted by a burner technician
The tank(s) must never be moved without completely emptying the tank first

EdTheHeaterMan

I Know, I Know! This was just as much help as @BinDerSmokDat.
but for real... @Icarus has the best idea. put 3 sleeves in the ground with concrete 3 ft deep. Then fill 3 pipes 6 ft long with concrete and place them in the sleeves. This way you can put the bollards within inches from the tank. if the tank ever needs to be serviced or replaced, take the bollards out of the sleeves for easy tank access. Here is an illustration:

STEVEusaPA

Intplm. said:

Lally column floor to ceiling if able. Or a ballard type barrier.
Two, should be used if the oil tank is installed at the back of the garage.

I'd be nervous about attaching a lally column to the ceiling as protection, especially if it structural, or could affect the structure if someone hits it.

OP, granted, indoor tank is better than an outdoor tank but any reason why the tank can't go outside in a small enclosure?

STEVEusaPA

Jeez @EdTheHeaterMan Might be cheaper for them to buy a Tesla and let it auto park...then crash into the tank...then have a battery fire...lol

EdTheHeaterMan

You are probably right @STEVEusaPA. If the company that just bought me out was to do the job! I was thinking of a homeowner DYI. But I just pictured a small rental backhoe inside the garage. Large gaping holes in the ceiling, 36" trench next to Full Tank with all that weight collapsing the trench, 2 million dollar remediation project... Just park outside @KenB06070 !

JUGHNE

Is Natural Gas available?

STEVEusaPA

JUGHNE said:

Is Natural Gas available?

Heyyyyy...lol
What's natural gas?

JUGHNE

Steve, You must be an "Oiler"

Jamie Hall

Frankly, the idea of an oil -- or gas or LP tank -- located in a garage where a vehicle can hit it just makes no sense to me at all. The bollards placed a few inches from the tank would not, to me, be adequate protection. If they didn't bend and themselves impact the tank, the vehicle -- as present vehicles are constructed -- would bend. And hit the tank. As I said earlier, at a minimum I'd want to see three feet between the bollards and the tank.

But... I'd rather not see the tank there at all.

mattmia2

I'm not sure you gain a whole lot with the concrete below grade over a 36" sleeve in earth...

STEVEusaPA

JUGHNE said:

Steve, You must be an "Oiler"

I've been called worse...

Icarus

Drive a car fast enough into any barrier and there will be trouble! 3” sched 80 will stop a slow rolling car pretty well. I don’t see a need to embed it 36” in concrete. Even in a 12” embedment will stop the rolling car. They might start busting out of the concrete but... We’re not trying to stop a train.

Icarus

KenB06070

Wow Thanks everyone for the feedback!

I should have included a picture or diagram as some of these suggestions will render the garage nonfunctional 😉. But I appreciate the enthusiastic responses.

Time to visit the town building inspector I think.

BinDerSmokDat

Not sure why my comment generated so much ire.
The OP is clearly looking for guidance on IMPACT protection in a garage.
He wasn't asking what are ALL the relevant codes for installing a tank.
I said I don't know any code that SPECIFIES what that protection should be.
Apparently nobody else knows either, because everyone just said exactly the same as me, "bollards and concrete."

pecmsg

The relievers code dictates what has to be done!