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Supply valve leak
Fizz
Member Posts: 547
in single pipe system. Had new floor put -in kitchen, installer removed radiator though told not to, my fault, I wasn't there when he instlled. Anyway, that was last spring, and I just noticed small puddle, the nut was loose, so i tightened it, still leaks between cycles. Leak is on radiator side of nut, so I'm thinking the radiator needs to be moved to put sealant on valve inlet. Any suggestions?
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Comments
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Sealant doesn't usually work inside a union, but if you apply a little grease between the nut and the flange, you can generate more compression with the same amount of torque.
Unfortunately, it's not unusual for these to start leaking when they're moved, especially if it's not possible to put it together at the same angle, so I just keep tightening and hope for the best. Either it stops leaking or something breaks and you get a new valve.Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-241 -
And rock it gently while tightening after ensuring it’s very nicely aligned
NJ Steam Homeowner.
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See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el1 -
I have more often than I like, have put pipe dope on the face of a union. One of the reasons for pipe dope is to help fill imperfections in metals. So go ahead and give it a try.0
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Thanks for input guys!0
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Never Seize!0
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Great! I was skeptical, but I'm glad it worked. If it starts leaking again, don't lose heart. PTFE has a property called "creep," which causes it to slowly escape under pressure, but if it happens, you can just re-do it and maybe try adding more.Fizz said:Leak stopped, tried grease to threads, still leaked, then stretched some teflon tape into loosened nut, and it seems to be working.
Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-240 -
Thanks Hap!0
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