boiler pressure cut off at 5-6psi , water level is very low... spouting water constantly

itzik

its seems right. 7kpa is like 1.5psi and its the same on the main. I do think using all this different measurements makes it harder. I will also says that I grow up in a metric system and every time I have to buy a piece of fabric its crazy as well. it goes from a feet to yard to who knows what

KC_Jones

Chris_L said:

I just noticed how Honeywell mashed up the pressure units on this vapourstat--oz/in2 and kPa on the Diff and (reverse the order) kPa and PSI (pounds/in2) on the Main. Wouldn't it be clearer to use the same units in the same order on both scales?

But what I really want to know is if 16 oz/in2 (1 PSI) equals approximately 7 kPa on the Diff scale, and it does according to my converter, why does 1 PSI line up with 5 kPa on the Main scale? Am I missing something?

Look at the zero points on the 2 scales, no idea why it's like that. zero should be zero correct?

ethicalpaul

I agree, their choices on these scales are very weird. I don’t have an answer about the conversion

Fred

ethicalpaul said:

Fred said:

ethicalpaul said:

No, he means .7 psi. You are at 7 kPa.

.7psi would be about 11 ounces/sq inch using the far left scale but really anywhere around there should be fine

His Main is set at 1.5 PSI. His Differential should be set at 7 ounces.

Hi Fred

That is a fine setting, but I was just being consistent with the statement of @Jamie Hall below:

> I'd set the vapourstat at 1.5 on the main scale -- to start with -- and I like, for no particular reason, to set the differential at half the coutout, or about 0.7. Just for starters. You can play later...

I get it. I have mine set at Main = 14 ounces and Differential set at 10 ounces for a cut-in of 4 ounces and it works great. As Jamie says, each system can be tweaked for what works best for it but 1.5PSI and 7 ounces is a good starting point.

Chris_L

KC_Jones said:

Chris_L said:

I just noticed how Honeywell mashed up the pressure units on this vapourstat--oz/in2 and kPa on the Diff and (reverse the order) kPa and PSI (pounds/in2) on the Main. Wouldn't it be clearer to use the same units in the same order on both scales?

But what I really want to know is if 16 oz/in2 (1 PSI) equals approximately 7 kPa on the Diff scale, and it does according to my converter, why does 1 PSI line up with 5 kPa on the Main scale? Am I missing something?

Look at the zero points on the 2 scales, no idea why it's like that. zero should be zero correct?

Yes, it makes me wonder, what Main scale do vaporstat users believe--kPa or PSI? They can't both be right.

KC_Jones

I have to close my king valves to even see if mine work, can't test them any other way as under normal operation they do nothing. My low fire is set at ~5 ounces, burner cut out set to ~8 ounces.

Pressuretrol set to 9 PSI and is only used for blow down.

Technically my boiler is over sized, 325 connected to 265.

ChrisJ

Chris_L said:

KC_Jones said:

Chris_L said:

I just noticed how Honeywell mashed up the pressure units on this vapourstat--oz/in2 and kPa on the Diff and (reverse the order) kPa and PSI (pounds/in2) on the Main. Wouldn't it be clearer to use the same units in the same order on both scales?

But what I really want to know is if 16 oz/in2 (1 PSI) equals approximately 7 kPa on the Diff scale, and it does according to my converter, why does 1 PSI line up with 5 kPa on the Main scale? Am I missing something?

Look at the zero points on the 2 scales, no idea why it's like that. zero should be zero correct?

Yes, it makes me wonder, what Main scale do vaporstat users believe--kPa or PSI? They can't both be right.

Neither.
Anyone serious calibrates it using a gauge.

That said, I'm in a similar situation to @KC_Jones
My system limits the boiler's pressure and the Pressuretrol sits there doing nothing.

Fred

There are typically 3 to 5 days in the winter where the outside temps are well below zero and my vaporstat will kick in once or twice during a heating cycle. It just depends on how oversized the boiler is, if deep setbacks are used and if the boiler is equipped with a two stage gas valve and the vaporstat is part of the operating design.

ChrisJ

Fred said:

There are typically 3 to 5 days in the winter where the outside temps are well below zero and my vaporstat will kick in once or twice during a heating cycle. It just depends on how oversized the boiler is, if deep setbacks are used and if the boiler is equipped with a two stage gas valve and the vaporstat is part of the operating design.

That's 3-5 days more than mine.
Even with 5 TRV's, on half of my radiation, it doesn't happen.

Fred

ChrisJ said:

Fred said:

There are typically 3 to 5 days in the winter where the outside temps are well below zero and my vaporstat will kick in once or twice during a heating cycle. It just depends on how oversized the boiler is, if deep setbacks are used and if the boiler is equipped with a two stage gas valve and the vaporstat is part of the operating design.

That's 3-5 days more than mine.
Even with 5 TRV's, on half of my radiation, it doesn't happen.

Yup but like you've said in other recent posts, what the hell difference does it make, so long as it stays within proven limits.

Shalom

itzik said:

second the water gauge in the glass is all the way to the bottom I almost can not see the water...

Just looking at this from the top post, and nobody's mentioned it yet. Are you sure it's all the way down, and not all the way up?? Sometimes it's very hard to tell a full glass from an empty one., and if it's that overfull, it might well be spritzing out upstairs.

Trick is grab a sheet of lined notebook paper (or a 3x5 index card) and hold it diagonally behind the glass. If it's empty, you'll see the lines continue straight; if it's full, you'll see the lines at a 90 degree angle where they pass behind the glass.

itzik

@Shalom yes was all the way down. I skimmed the boiler for 8 hours now the water level is good. Still need to install the new vaporstat to get the right pressure.