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Help! I have a coupling partly stuck in the main vent

tomsloancamp
tomsloancamp Member Posts: 88
in THE MAIN WALL
I was trying to remove the coupling that holds the main air vent into the main steam line I was able to remove it but part of the coupling remains and I can’t get another coupling in there any suggestions on how to get the remaining coupling out?

Comments

  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,060
    Your too close, blurred picture. A couple more please.
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,276
    I've had decent luck with big EasyOut bits such as diesel and auto mechanics use. And PB Blaster. And a couple of big wrenches (if you can use the EasyOut, and have the space, use an impact driver on it and hold with a big pipe wrench).
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    tomsloancamp
  • tomsloancamp
    tomsloancamp Member Posts: 88
    Here you go.... anyone on the Rhode Island area want a quick job? ....
  • acwagner
    acwagner Member Posts: 505
    Can you remove the fitting it's stuck into?
    Burnham IN5PVNI Boiler, Single Pipe with 290 EDR
    18 Ounce per Square Inch Gauge
    Time Delay Relay in Series with Thermostat
    Operating Pressure 0.3-0.5 Ounce per Square Inch

  • tomsloancamp
    tomsloancamp Member Posts: 88
    Kind of afraid to now! Should I call a plumber?
  • acwagner
    acwagner Member Posts: 505
    edited November 2019
    Use two pipe wrenches. One on the pipe to resist the rotation. The other on the fitting you're removing.

    Or hire someone if this is outside your comfort zone.
    Burnham IN5PVNI Boiler, Single Pipe with 290 EDR
    18 Ounce per Square Inch Gauge
    Time Delay Relay in Series with Thermostat
    Operating Pressure 0.3-0.5 Ounce per Square Inch

    tomsloancamp
  • SeanBeans
    SeanBeans Member Posts: 520
    edited November 2019
    You should be able to crack that off, Use a back up wrench on the nipple so that one doesn’t crack inside the tee it’s connected to!
    tomsloancamp
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,060
    IIWM, I would get an angle dental pick, cut the crud out around the bottom of that reducing coupling. Then spray with PB Blaster several times. Holding one hammer against one side and then tap the opposite side....just tapping to loosen threads and get the spray to climb up by capillary action.
    Spray...tap...spray....tap.


    Then with 2 pipe wrenches adjusted so that the adjustable "hook" is against the 3rd side of the fitting/nipple, "3 pointing"
    is the term. Helps to keep the lower nipple from egg shaping.
    tomsloancamp
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 4,842
    New nipple, Reducer Fitting and Vent.

    Teflon and never seize!
    tomsloancampGrallert
  • tomsloancamp
    tomsloancamp Member Posts: 88
    If I can’t get it out or someone to fix my mistake (on this holiday weekend), can I just plug it temporarily? I am sure that’s no suggestioned but 8 will need heat and I’m desperate.
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,060
    Relax, just take your time, soak and tap. Don't kill it with wrenches.
    You want more leverage on the nipple than the coupling.
    You want to save the nipple and not egg shape it.
    tomsloancamp
  • Intplm.
    Intplm. Member Posts: 1,945
    JUGHNE said:

    Relax, just take your time, soak and tap. Don't kill it with wrenches.
    You want more leverage on the nipple than the coupling.
    You want to save the nipple and not egg shape it.

    I totally agree with this explanation @tomsloancamp . ^^^^

    You can also try using a pipe tap. I have had much luck with simply re-tapping what has broken off into the fitting.
    This can remove the broken pieces and re-thread the the fitting at the same time.
    It will take some force to get it started but it works. (tap it with a hammer)
    You can purchase one of these at your local hardware store.
    tomsloancamp
  • tomsloancamp
    tomsloancamp Member Posts: 88
    Thanks everyone for your advice once again. I decided to leave it to a professional and he was successful in getting the fitting removed. The main reason I was was trying to remove the coupling was to replace the steam vent and the thread size is too small for a Gorton ( I think the original was 1/4.) The Original vent blew steam the replacement I got doesn’t seem to work (ventrite #33.) Atleast now I can build add a T and also add more vents as needed. I hoping once I vent the main correctly I can calm down the hammering.
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,060
    Glad to hear that! Thanks for letting us know.
    Great experience wasn't it? ;)
    tomsloancamp

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