Hot water heating system problem

JUGHNE

I had a situation with a large commercial boiler that had the high point of the 2 1/2" copper lines in the attic.
At the high point, after draining the system down, I drilled and installed a refrigeration type service valve, it was brazed in place.
Then extended down to the boiler room below (near a convenient mop sink BTW) with 1/4" tubing with the depressor schroder valve (like a tire air stem) installed.
Bleed air as needed.

That could be done for you high spots of copper lines.
Probably R&R radiators for the install. Put a 90 ell on top of the tapping and bring the tubing out to be accessible by removing the lower cover. You could catch any water in a can while bleeding.

Many tall convectors have a tube accessible like this for air bleeding.

Jack_2

Alan, the contractor is coming back to make the pipes level by raising the rad. Aesthetics is not important since I'm going to cover it with a rad cover. Any suggestions on what types?

Alan Welch

I would wait until they are finished and you know it heats before doing anything.You don't want to block the openings or you wont get the convective air movement. You might only need to do a skirt board to hide the visible piping.

Jack_2

Thanks, Alan, you've been a lot of help. Just have one more question, if the air pocket is at the high point on the supply side pipe under the rad, why don't I feel the hot water below that point coming from the floor?

Alan Welch

How do you know that it's the supply pipe? You said there is no access to the piping under the floor. I'm assuming it's a monoflo system, each radiator is a branch or loop off the main. That's why if some radiators heat and others don't the culprit is usually air.

mikeg2015

If it was me, I’t pull out that radiator, cut the return pipe going to the floor and rethread (with threading machine) as close to the floor as possible. Might be able to actually push it up from below if there’s access to get the threads cut lower. Not ideal, But i think it would work. Need to lower it maybe 1” an the pipe will be pitched slightly down. Will have to unsweat the copper.

Also, you really should have some brass between the black and the copper. Can’t tell if that’s a brass bushing in the black elbow or not. Maybe it is.

pecmsg

I> @mikeg2015 said:
> If it was me, I’t pull out that radiator, cut the return pipe going to the floor and rethread (with threading machine) as close to the floor as possible. Might be able to actually push it up from below if there’s access to get the threads cut lower. Not ideal, But i think it would work. Need to lower it maybe 1” an the pipe will be pitched slightly down. Will have to unsweat the copper.
>
> Also, you really should have some brass between the black and the copper. Can’t tell if that’s a brass bushing in the black elbow or not. Maybe it is.
Perfect location for Pro Press

mikeg2015

Forgot about pro-press. Good idea.... if you have the $1000+ tool. We don’t do enough plumbing or to justify it.

pecmsg

All supply houses around here will loan you a tool for uses like that.

mattmia2

Could move the valve next to the ell and change it to a valve with waste or replace the ell with a baseboard tee and put a vent there.

Jack_2

Alan, I meant the vertical supply pipe coming out from the floor, on the right side below the rad where it's attached to the horizontal, sloping pipe. Not below the floor. Thanks.

Alan Welch

How do you know the pipe on the Right is the supply? It could just as well be the return .

Jack_2

Alan, you are correct. Strangely enough, the supply is on the left and return is on right. And the installers thought the opposite just like I did. In any event, they came back and raised the rad so that the horizontal pipes are now more or less level. Tested and it now works like a charm! Will post pics of how it looks later on. Alan and the rest of you, I can't thank you guys enough!

Alan Welch

Glad it all worked out.