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Condensate Line Blocks Filter Access - Need To Re-Pipe

I recently became aware that the condensate line from my 1st floor AC air handler is blocking access the in-unit air filter (see pictures below)... I am thinking that it would be a simple matter of shifting the T to the left so that it is able to descend to the floor without passing in front of the air handler... sound about right?





Comments

  • ChrisJChrisJ Posts: 9,877Member
    Makes you wonder if there's even a filter in there........................

    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • DZoroDZoro Posts: 771Member
    Do you possibly have a single return filter grill located someplace central in the home?
    D
  • JustinSJustinS Posts: 206Member
    ChrisJ said:

    Makes you wonder if there's even a filter in there........................

    There's not... I looked...
  • JustinSJustinS Posts: 206Member
    DZoro said:

    Do you possibly have a single return filter grill located someplace central in the home?
    D

    There is a filter in 2nd floor AC system but that system is completely separate from the 1st floor system
  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Posts: 5,778Member
    Go left and then to the rear with the trap and come back out to the front. You need a cap on that vent pipe on the top of the trap, this is negative pressure and the drain pan may over flow without the protection of the trap.
    I regret using this type of filter rack in the past as they have all been a PITA. There is a good RA filter box that the furnace/AH sits on top of with a good door for a 2-4" thick filter.
    Disadvantage is it adds height to the return air box. Tough for you to do now.
    I have cut doors in the RA plenum under the filter just to aid in changing the filter as they hang up easily going in and out.
  • Cody350Cody350 Posts: 7Member
    The vent is also on the wrong side of the trap.
    Cody Mack
    Caleffi North America
  • ratioratio Posts: 2,051Member
    Is it glued up? The intent might be to just separate it to change the filter.

    It is cheesy though, and like Cody350 said, the vent is on the wrong side of the trap. Swap the tee for the 90° on the outlet of the trap to correct it.

  • JustinSJustinS Posts: 206Member
    ratio said:

    Is it glued up? The intent might be to just separate it to change the filter.

    It is cheesy though, and like Cody350 said, the vent is on the wrong side of the trap. Swap the tee for the 90° on the outlet of the trap to correct it.

    It looks like it's been glued together so separating it when replacing the filter isn't an option...

    So are you all saying that the vent should be on the piping before the trap? Essentially coming straight out of the cement floor?
  • ratioratio Posts: 2,051Member
    That's an upflow air handler, with the coil on the suck side of the blower. If you put your hand over the vent in the drain where it's located now, you'll feel it sucking air in. This could cause issues with the proper drainage of the condensate.

    A quick fix would be to put a cap on the vent, unglued, to allow you to pull it off & shove something through to clean the trap.

  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Posts: 5,778Member
    Is this a recent install? If so I would call the installer and inquire where the filters are and how to change them.
  • JustinSJustinS Posts: 206Member
    I spoke to the installer - he said I should use "pleated filters they’re not rigid" no idea what he's talking about
  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Posts: 5,778Member
    If there is no filter there now and you have not removed one, (tough to do in one piece), then he never installed one.....or there is a filter grill(s) upstairs somewhere on the first floor.
    I can't imagine anyone installing a system without a filter, even with the poor excuse of the filter rack you have now.

    I sometimes use clear vinyl tubing that just fits over that 3/4" PVC tubing. It can be formed into a deep trap and screwed to the left side of the lower RA box. Visible to view condensate production and not bad to remove for cleaning.
    I pipe around the left hand corner with pvc fittings and then vinyl over to the floor pipe. You can get a cross fitting for the discharge of the coil pan and clean it without disassembly.
  • HVACNUTHVACNUT Posts: 2,318Member
    Did you look to see if the coupling on the pipe going to the floor drain is glued? It looks like you pull out the bottom piece (dont let it fall in the hole) and spin the trap CCW.
    That being said, a high efficiency Merv 11 or better air filter installed in the vertical portion of the return is much better than the 30 day or washable filters. The installer can probably give you a quote for that and any other indoor climate concerns you may have.
    If you're going to replace the trap anyway, I like EZ Trap. Clear trap, ports and a brush for cleaning. They also offer one with a float switch to shut down the A/C in the event the drain clogs.
  • ratioratio Posts: 2,051Member
    JustinS said:

    I spoke to the installer - he said I should use "pleated filters they’re not rigid" no idea what he's talking about

    He meant you are supposed to crumple the filter enough to fit it into the rack. That's baloney. There's no reason he couldn't have just run that drain off to the side before it drops down. IIWM I'd have him back to fix it. Actually, I'd probably fix it myself, but that kind of think is an embarrassment to the trade.
  • pecmsgpecmsg Posts: 836Member
    JustinS said:

    I spoke to the installer - he said I should use "pleated filters they’re not rigid" no idea what he's talking about

    Doesn't give me a lot of faith in the installer!
  • ChrisJChrisJ Posts: 9,877Member
    pecmsg said:

    JustinS said:

    I spoke to the installer - he said I should use "pleated filters they’re not rigid" no idea what he's talking about

    Doesn't give me a lot of faith in the installer!
    It gives you any? :D
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Posts: 5,778Member
    The install actually looks good other than the drain & filter issue. IMO
  • ChrisJChrisJ Posts: 9,877Member
    JUGHNE said:

    The install actually looks good other than the drain & filter issue. IMO

    IMO, the guy had a brain fart doing the condensate line and is just trying to make excuses. He knows what he's doing, he just doesn't want to go back and fix it. "Just bend and crush the filter around it every time".

    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • Tim PotterTim Potter Posts: 247Member
    I'm with @HVACNUT & curious, why would you even think about using a 1" filter, why not a 4" or 5" filter box on the RA down leg. It's Something that has a low restriction, would actually filter the air & only have to be replaced once a year.

    Tim
    Winter Park, CO & Lenexa, KS
  • ChrisJChrisJ Posts: 9,877Member
    > @Tim Potter said:
    > I'm with @HVACNUT & curious, why would you even think about using a 1" filter, why not a 4" or 5" filter box on the RA down leg. It's Something that has a low restriction, would actually filter the air & only have to be replaced once a year.
    >
    > Tim

    I like my 25x20x5 AirBear.
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • JustinSJustinS Posts: 206Member
    pecmsg said:

    JustinS said:

    I spoke to the installer - he said I should use "pleated filters they’re not rigid" no idea what he's talking about

    Doesn't give me a lot of faith in the installer!
    Seriously, if you want further examples - go back and look at some of my earlier posts on the heating system that this same installer did
  • unclejohnunclejohn Posts: 1,374Member
    There is enough room to cut the pipe between the male adapter and the tee. Use a coupling to put it back together and do not glue it. All done.
  • pecmsgpecmsg Posts: 836Member
    JustinS said:

    pecmsg said:

    JustinS said:

    I spoke to the installer - he said I should use "pleated filters they’re not rigid" no idea what he's talking about

    Doesn't give me a lot of faith in the installer!
    Seriously, if you want further examples - go back and look at some of my earlier posts on the heating system that this same installer did
    100 Atta Boys make him a leader 1 Oooo $hit is all it takes.

    Running the drain like that and his reply is inexcusable!

    Many different ways of running a drain and providing access for simple maintenance like a filter change.
    Same as line sets, gas lines, conduit Leave Access for the next guy!
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