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Condensate Line Issues

NJHomeowner
NJHomeowner Member Posts: 66
I had 8 indoor mitsubishi mini splits installed last year connected to two condensers. Couple different concerns in regards to my condensate lines:

1. Noticed today the plastic tube inside of a line hide was falling out of it. Tech came, pulled it out and as you can see it was duct taped on. I know the connection to the plastic tube was within the line hide and he tested it after by pouring water into the unit and it all came out to the ground. Question is, is it ok for it to drain this way or should I insist on them fixing it (along with the other 4 line hides I have as I’m sure those were duct taped too)?

2. Of my eight units, only one of them seems to have a constant flow of water coming out of it now that it’s hot and humid. Others are an occasional drip if anything. I have seen them all tested and know they drain properly. Is this normal? It’s set to 70 degrees on ac like my other units. This one connects to a different type of tube inside my home before it gets to the exterior whereas all others were installed on an exterior wall. Also does it looks like they used duct tape to connect this one too as you can see in the last picture?

Thanks for your help.

Comments

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,485
    I would not accept a duct tape connection. If your set point is 70 that's a little low, hard on the equipment and it can freeze up. You should be able to get by at 74.

    The amount of condensate depends on the indoor humidity
    Canucker
  • NJHomeowner
    NJHomeowner Member Posts: 66
    edited July 2019
    Thanks. In the last picture what is the correct way to connect the pipes?

    As for connections in the line hides, how should these lines be connected from the water line to the tube from the unit?
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,316
    edited July 2019
    > @EBEBRATT-Ed said:
    > I would not accept a duct tape connection. If your set point is 70 that's a little low, hard on the equipment and it can freeze up. You should be able to get by at 74.
    >
    > The amount of condensate depends on the indoor humidity

    You wouldn't like how I treat my equipment. :)
    I keep my bedrooms at 68 at night.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • NJHomeowner
    NJHomeowner Member Posts: 66
    edited July 2019
    Hi everyone, checking back on the questions I had sent:

    1. In the last picture in my original post, what is the correct way to connect the pipes?

    2. As for connections in the line hides located on the exterior of my home, how should these lines be connected from the flexible water line they are using to the line from the unit?
  • Intplm.
    Intplm. Member Posts: 2,197
    @ Mschuch2581 Try using a threaded adapter connected to the solid pipe. Then, use a barbed fitting with a stainless steel hose clamp. The barbed fitting is inserted into the flex line ,and screwed into the threaded adapter. Hose clamp is then tightened around the flex and barbed fitting. This makes for a good transition between the two different types of pipe.
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,550
    This is what you need to connect the drain hose to PVC:


    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
    Intplm.ratioCanucker
  • Kybeans403
    Kybeans403 Member Posts: 56
    I really do not like the denko or other overseas drain tubing most commonly used for the mini splits. I started using 1/2" seal tite years ago and have had no issues. Attached to head units drain hose with hose clamps. The seal tite doesn't kink, split or rot away . And flows just as well if not better than PVC
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,316

    I really do not like the denko or other overseas drain tubing most commonly used for the mini splits. I started using 1/2" seal tite years ago and have had no issues. Attached to head units drain hose with hose clamps. The seal tite doesn't kink, split or rot away . And flows just as well if not better than PVC

    All true, except the cost difference is pretty significant, no?

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • NJHomeowner
    NJHomeowner Member Posts: 66
    edited July 2019
    Thank you! Are any of these preferable if the connection is on the exterior of my home versus interior? Another is in my foundation and of course, right now duct taped too...

    One interior one is from unit to PVC.

    All exterior or in foundation connections are unit to the flexible plastic hose.
  • Kybeans403
    Kybeans403 Member Posts: 56

    That tape is pretty hacky. Either is fine in my opinion
    I baelieve the cost for a 100 foot roll is very close. +/- $10
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,316


    That tape is pretty hacky. Either is fine in my opinion
    I baelieve the cost for a 100 foot roll is very close. +/- $10

    Cheapest I've seen 1/2" sealtite for is about $0.60 per foot.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • NJHomeowner
    NJHomeowner Member Posts: 66
    edited July 2019
    Was just given the following response from my sales rep. Does this sound right? The tech who came also left the pipe that fell. Can’t see any remnants of glue where the connection would be a duct tape is flush with the the top of the pipe at the end:

    All the joints were sealed with PVC glue when the installation was done. While the glue dries, the installation manual recommends wrapping the joints with duct tape. That's why the inside is taped like that as well. That joint most likely never cured.
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,316
    edited July 2019

    Was just given the following response from my sales rep. Does this sound right? The tech who came also left the pipe that fell. Can’t see any remnants of glue where the connection would be a duct tape is flush with the the top of the pipe at the end:



    All the joints were sealed with PVC glue when the installation was done. While the glue dries, the installation manual recommends wrapping the joints with duct tape. That's why the inside is taped like that as well. That joint most likely never cured.

    PVC cement isn't glue but literally welds plastic together by melting it. It's called solvent welding and typically sets up very fast. No one tapes joints together.

    I think they're full of ..........stuff.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    Intplm.Canucker
  • KC_Jones
    KC_Jones Member Posts: 5,840

    Was just given the following response from my sales rep. Does this sound right? The tech who came also left the pipe that fell. Can’t see any remnants of glue where the connection would be a duct tape is flush with the the top of the pipe at the end:



    All the joints were sealed with PVC glue when the installation was done. While the glue dries, the installation manual recommends wrapping the joints with duct tape. That's why the inside is taped like that as well. That joint most likely never cured.

    100% garbage for sure. They cheaped out and got caught. I'd be leery of everything at this point.
    2014 Weil Mclain EG-40
    EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Boiler Control
    Boiler pictures updated 2/21/15
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,316
    Best I can tell the drain line is LLDPE, not PVC.

    I don't think it can be glued using PVC cement, but maybe someone else here can comment on that.

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • NJHomeowner
    NJHomeowner Member Posts: 66
    edited July 2019
    He’s saying the glue is clear...no way was on this pipe but that sound right?

    Maybe that’s what they did with the one pipe out of 8 they did that’s a pvc drain line? This was done more recently, they had other joints to connect for this pipe and know he was using pvc cement. See attached.