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Extracting / replacing condensate connector

Gang,

Carrier Air handler came with the house; about 12 years old.

No clean-out on the condensate line -- and it needs cleaning out. Bought some parts figuring I could twist the threaded 3/4" PVC connector off, but it isn't budging with probably 40 ft-lbs of torque.

Are these connectors "standard" so that if I do break it, I can replace it? Or am I going to end up JBWeld-ing something back to a pan and cursing... Tips / advice, please -- and thank you!


Comments

  • IronmanIronman Posts: 5,232Member
    It should only be hand tightened. Don’t try to force it or you’ll break the drain pan.

    Cut it a little further away where you can put a union or coupling and then blow some compressed air back in short bursts. Or get a Gallo Gun.
    Bob Boan


    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • tc60045tc60045 Posts: 31Member
    Thanks, Ironman. I cut everything out and backed the screw-in portion out pretty easily. Put in a cross instead of a 90 and put union at the junction, so much more easily cleaned -- and removed -- if I need to down the road.

    Bad news: the leak I've been having is from a crack in the pan. No way that I can extract it to repair / replace without major Puron disconnection cost / hassle. So it may be Flex Seal to the rescue....
  • mikeg2015mikeg2015 Posts: 988Member
    I used some basic 2 part epoxy compatible with plastic to fix cracked pans.

    Linesets are pretty flexible. Sometimes you have enough room to slide out the entire coil. Might make the repair easier. In rare cases you can buy a new pan.

    If less than 10 years old, pan might be under warranty.
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