Punctured in floor heat line.

djc2232

Go figure. The contractor renovating my bathroom punctured one of my staple up in floor heat lines cutting a drain in the floor. Even after me telling them multiple times.

Luckily it's on the smallest zone. Didn't loose much water and pressure is back up to normal. System is a WM ECO 70 boiler with two zones.

He spliced it with a brass fitting and two metal clips. All appears ok. Similar brass fittings and clips used on the other **** off valves throughout the system.

What I want to know is what else should I do? Should I replace the entire loop? Or will purging that loop and running the WM cleaner and inhibitor be ok? Will send a pic of the splice when they are finished for the day.

JohnNY

Don't worry about it. As long as the repair is done well it'll last indefinitely.

That's said, I hate couplings.

djc2232

I think so too. My system runs right around 12psi and that zone doesn't run too often. (good insulation). So I'm not too worried of it popping.

Somewhere I've read that if there's a leak/puncture in that section to replace it. Not sure if that's true for this set up. Thanks

Alan (California Radiant) Forbes

"Don't worry about it. As long as the repair is done well it'll last indefinitely."
...

Ironman

There’s no need to replace the entire loop if the coupling was done right.

I don’t know where you got that info, but it’s bogus.

The internet can be a real fountain of mis-information.

JohnNY

Ironman said:

There’s no need to replace the entire loop if the coupling was done right.



I don’t know where you got that info, but it’s bogus.



The internet can be a real fountain of mis-information.

It's not bogus. If you have an opinion, share it. I've been installing radiant heat and snow melting since the mid-'90s. The couplings make the same joint as the manifold fittings. If the manifold connections don't leak, why would the splice joints.

hot_rod

Hopefully with a repair coupling that was made for the tube? Not a NAPA fitting and clamp

Is it black or orange rubber tube under the floor, or pex plastic tube? The tube is stapled below the floor, still accessible?

djc2232

Here's what the guy did. To me it looks ok.

JohnNY

This is a proper repair coupling:
http://bostonheatingsupply.com/a4010313.aspx

djc2232

> @hot_rod said:
> Hopefully with a repair coupling that was made for the tube? Not a NAPA fitting and clamp
>
> Is it black or orange rubber tube under the floor, or pex plastic tube? The tube is stapled below the floor, still accessible?


Orange pex stapled up below floor as you see in the pic above. And is accessible via the crawl space.

djc2232

> @JohnNY said:
> This is a proper repair coupling:
> http://bostonheatingsupply.com/a4010313.aspx

Hard to tell what coupling was used but it looks similar to this.

Intplm.

Have seen and have used both pictured fittings shown above. I understand your concern but I would not worry about it.

Ironman

JohnNY said:

Ironman said:

There’s no need to replace the entire loop if the coupling was done right.



I don’t know where you got that info, but it’s bogus.



The internet can be a real fountain of mis-information.

It's not bogus. If you have an opinion, share it. I've been installing radiant heat and snow melting since the mid-'90s. The couplings make the same joint as the manifold fittings. If the manifold connections don't leak, why would the splice joints.

@johnNY
I'm not quite following you. The OP said that he had heard that the entire loop needed replacing. That was what I was referring to as bogus.

JohnNY

@Ironman, sorry buddy. I misunderstood. Cheers.

djc2232

Now fellas lol.

Ran the boiler and got the air out of that section. No leaks. Should be good to go.

HomerJSmith

It appears to be Pex B with sharkbite or Apollo coupling with Apollo clamps. It will work. I always cover the joint with shrink sleeve if buried in gypcrete, etc., and measure the location of the fix and photograph it. If the tube is Pex A, I use Uponor ProPex fittings.