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Punctured in floor heat line.

djc2232djc2232 Member Posts: 98
Go figure. The contractor renovating my bathroom punctured one of my staple up in floor heat lines cutting a drain in the floor. Even after me telling them multiple times.

Luckily it's on the smallest zone. Didn't loose much water and pressure is back up to normal. System is a WM ECO 70 boiler with two zones.

He spliced it with a brass fitting and two metal clips. All appears ok. Similar brass fittings and clips used on the other **** off valves throughout the system.

What I want to know is what else should I do? Should I replace the entire loop? Or will purging that loop and running the WM cleaner and inhibitor be ok? Will send a pic of the splice when they are finished for the day.

Comments

  • JohnNYJohnNY Member Posts: 2,235
    edited June 10
    Don't worry about it. As long as the repair is done well it'll last indefinitely.

    That's said, I hate couplings.
    For installations, troubleshooting, and private consulting services, find John "JohnNY" Cataneo here at :
    "72°F Mechanical, LLC"
    Or email John at [email protected]
    John is a professional Master Plumber, licensed by The Department of Buildings of The City of New York, and works extensively in NYC while consulting for clients in and out of state.
  • djc2232djc2232 Member Posts: 98
    I think so too. My system runs right around 12psi and that zone doesn't run too often. (good insulation). So I'm not too worried of it popping.

    Somewhere I've read that if there's a leak/puncture in that section to replace it. Not sure if that's true for this set up. Thanks
  • Alan (California Radiant) ForbesAlan (California Radiant) Forbes Member Posts: 1,766
    edited June 10
    "Don't worry about it. As long as the repair is done well it'll last indefinitely."
    ...
    Often wrong, never in doubt.

    Click here to learn more about this contractor.
  • IronmanIronman Member Posts: 5,004
    There’s no need to replace the entire loop if the coupling was done right.

    I don’t know where you got that info, but it’s bogus.

    The internet can be a real fountain of mis-information.
    Bob Boan


    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • JohnNYJohnNY Member Posts: 2,235
    Ironman said:

    There’s no need to replace the entire loop if the coupling was done right.



    I don’t know where you got that info, but it’s bogus.



    The internet can be a real fountain of mis-information.

    It's not bogus. If you have an opinion, share it. I've been installing radiant heat and snow melting since the mid-'90s. The couplings make the same joint as the manifold fittings. If the manifold connections don't leak, why would the splice joints.
    For installations, troubleshooting, and private consulting services, find John "JohnNY" Cataneo here at :
    "72°F Mechanical, LLC"
    Or email John at [email protected]
    John is a professional Master Plumber, licensed by The Department of Buildings of The City of New York, and works extensively in NYC while consulting for clients in and out of state.
  • hot_rodhot_rod Member Posts: 11,369
    Hopefully with a repair coupling that was made for the tube? Not a NAPA fitting and clamp :)

    Is it black or orange rubber tube under the floor, or pex plastic tube? The tube is stapled below the floor, still accessible?
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    The magic is in hydronics, and hydronics is in me
  • djc2232djc2232 Member Posts: 98
    Here's what the guy did. To me it looks ok.
    IMG_20190610_161455080~2.jpg
    2417 x 1791 - 566K
  • JohnNYJohnNY Member Posts: 2,235
    This is a proper repair coupling:
    http://bostonheatingsupply.com/a4010313.aspx
    For installations, troubleshooting, and private consulting services, find John "JohnNY" Cataneo here at :
    "72°F Mechanical, LLC"
    Or email John at [email protected]
    John is a professional Master Plumber, licensed by The Department of Buildings of The City of New York, and works extensively in NYC while consulting for clients in and out of state.
  • djc2232djc2232 Member Posts: 98
    > @hot_rod said:
    > Hopefully with a repair coupling that was made for the tube? Not a NAPA fitting and clamp :)
    >
    > Is it black or orange rubber tube under the floor, or pex plastic tube? The tube is stapled below the floor, still accessible?


    Orange pex stapled up below floor as you see in the pic above. And is accessible via the crawl space.
  • djc2232djc2232 Member Posts: 98
    > @JohnNY said:
    > This is a proper repair coupling:
    > http://bostonheatingsupply.com/a4010313.aspx

    Hard to tell what coupling was used but it looks similar to this.
  • Intplm.Intplm. Member Posts: 732
    Have seen and have used both pictured fittings shown above. I understand your concern but I would not worry about it.
  • IronmanIronman Member Posts: 5,004
    JohnNY said:

    Ironman said:

    There’s no need to replace the entire loop if the coupling was done right.



    I don’t know where you got that info, but it’s bogus.



    The internet can be a real fountain of mis-information.

    It's not bogus. If you have an opinion, share it. I've been installing radiant heat and snow melting since the mid-'90s. The couplings make the same joint as the manifold fittings. If the manifold connections don't leak, why would the splice joints.
    @johnNY
    I'm not quite following you. The OP said that he had heard that the entire loop needed replacing. That was what I was referring to as bogus.

    Bob Boan


    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • JohnNYJohnNY Member Posts: 2,235
    @Ironman, sorry buddy. I misunderstood. Cheers.
    For installations, troubleshooting, and private consulting services, find John "JohnNY" Cataneo here at :
    "72°F Mechanical, LLC"
    Or email John at [email protected]
    John is a professional Master Plumber, licensed by The Department of Buildings of The City of New York, and works extensively in NYC while consulting for clients in and out of state.
  • djc2232djc2232 Member Posts: 98
    Now fellas lol.

    Ran the boiler and got the air out of that section. No leaks. Should be good to go.
  • HomerJSmithHomerJSmith Member Posts: 493
    It appears to be Pex B with sharkbite or Apollo coupling with Apollo clamps. It will work. I always cover the joint with shrink sleeve if buried in gypcrete, etc., and measure the location of the fix and photograph it. If the tube is Pex A, I use Uponor ProPex fittings.
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