PVC Primer
I have seen some installations with colored primer that look like it was done with a small paint brush with as little as a 1/8 of an inch of primer showing evenly around the pipe with no drips! I pride myself on doing a clean neat professional looking job. Colored primer always seems to spoil the look.
Any input will be most appreciated.
PS. I searched the sight for info on this. The last time that this was talked about was in 2017, but could not find specifics on how to put this stuff on cleanly.
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A purple glue ?! That would be a excellent product.0
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That makes me remember when purple primer was not yet code. We would use clear primer, and if the inspector insisted on purple primer we would dab each joint with purple for when he would come back to inspect. Still made a mess.0
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The 2015 IPC says that primer is NOT required for non-pressurized piping.
Also, blue (Rain or Shine) glue states on the label that primer is not necessary for non-pressurized piping.
We use clear primer even though it's not required.Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.1 -
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The 2015 IPC same that you mentioned above. I am very familiar with the code.
It's not the code book so much as the code enforcement officer, ie the inspector.0 -
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@Ironman
I dont know where you're located but on Long Island, with their numerous townships, Hamlets, Incorperated Villages and such, most like to go above and beyond what nat code says. But seemingly for no other reason than because they can.
Same with gas pressure tests. What inspector in what town wants what pressure on what max psi gauge and for how long. I gets a little ridiculous.1 -
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Not sure what the spelling is on the brush
I’ve primed and glued lots of pipe, here’s my thoughts
1- don’t use a full can of purple- dump half the can of you want to have good results. Buy two cans. The second can to refill the first
2- shake off the liquid into the can, kinda like the ketchup bottle motion
3- dauber up the fitting first because the excess liquid (if any) will pool up inside the fitting, normally not a big deal if you’re paying attention to gravity
4- now do the pipe. If the primed area is on a vertical pipe and you’re applying primer on “top”, you need to be super careful about the dauber liquid content.
5- do not put the dauber back in the can every time, that’s a waste of your time. 3” joints- maybe, maybe not. 2” and smaller you can do several fittings/joints
If you’re still insecure you can bring some cardboard on the job and “whip” the liquid off of the dauber. If a dirt floor, let it fly. If you are always whipping liquid off you’re not going a good job shaking back into the can
You go through glue 3 or 4 times faster than primer.
Primer lasts forever, glue does not.
When you get good you only need to dump 1/4 of a new can. Operate a full can of primer and you’ll spend all day doing this stuff, while making a mess
When you are good you’ll automatically gauge an added 1/8” to 1/4” of purple on the joints. Not enough- looks like you didn’t prime. Too deep of a ring and it look sloppy
When applying, use your shoulder as the motion point, not your wrist, more defined circular motion using larger muscle groups. I keep my wrist and fingers stiff on 3” and up up joints3 -
> @347 said:
> Hercules makes a UV purple primer. If the inspector asks you use a UV flashlight and it comes up purple. Have yet to have a problem with any inspection.
So under normal light it all looks good but when you turn on the uv light it looks like a huge disgusting crime scene?Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment3 -
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IDK how it's handled in your state, but in VA, once the code is adopted, it's state law. The inspector can't make up his own rules. If the code allows it, then he has to follow it. He's the CODE enforcement officer, not the king. He has no power to legislate.Intplm. said:The 2015 IPC same that you mentioned above. I am very familiar with the code.
It's not the code book so much as the code enforcement officer, ie the inspector.
I always go out of my way to work with inspectors, but when they make up stuff on their own, they are violating the law themselves and I will kindly but very firmly require them to show from the code where they're getting their requirement.
I've been in code classes today and this was one of the things that was discussed.
Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.2 -
In parts of Connecticut and Rhode Island it is often said that you follow the code book and what the inspector wants in his particular jurisdiction.Ironman said:
IDK how it's handled in your state, but in VA, once the code is adopted, it's state law. The inspector can't make up his own rules. If the code allows it, then he has to follow it. He's the CODE enforcement officer, not the king. He has no power to legislate.Intplm. said:The 2015 IPC same that you mentioned above. I am very familiar with the code.
It's not the code book so much as the code enforcement officer, ie the inspector.
I always go out of my way to work with inspectors, but when they make up stuff on their own, they are violating the law themselves and I will kindly but very firmly require them to show from the code where they're getting their requirement.
I've been in code classes today and this was one of the things that was discussed.
I have always argued this but it's like arguing with the umpire.1 -
@GW's got my process exactly, except I generally spill the first half of the can on myself instead of dumping it out.
WRT inspectors, what's fun is when you're in the interface between two jurisdictions (say, an electrical service, which gets blessed by the electrical inspector and the power company) and they have incompatible requirements…
You have to call in the inspections a day or two apart to give yourself time to change things around!
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Maybe Laquor thinner will remove purple after inspection?? Primer solvent likely dissolves purple into skin of plastic though.
Suppose partial cosmetic solution is to cover purple on pipe with some white tape. Or white paint. But then when owner goes to sell the house buyers inspector might flag it as no purple= no primer= have to re-seal all joints= reduce house price by $1500
When I installed my central vac no inspector was involved. Used clear primer, didn't want a crummy looking job, unfinished cellar.
UV purple sounds good.0 -
The purpose of purple primer is so a inspector can see that the fittings and pipe have been joined. (I feel that purple primer is ridiculous, and unnecessary.) Clear primer was always fine for many years.
UV cannot be seen by the naked eye. It sounds good but most inspectors do not carry a UV light with them and will not approve a job with UV.
I am very interested in the UV however and may start using it. I will need to have a UV light with me and be at the job sight when the inspector comes.
Thank you everyone for your answers. It has been of great help.0 -
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Half a can mixed.0
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Crisis J,
You can see a tint of purple under normal light, looks mostly clear. When you b put a UV light to it, yes you see it all.
For the most part it looks like clear PVC cleaner.
And, yes I carry a UV fl1 -
I used mostly clear primer recently, but the purple stuff I've used most certainly softened the pipe.JUGHNE said:To me the Purple primer does nothing to the pipe/fittings other than make a mess.
Clear cleaner/primer softens the PVC up for the process....the purple I had did not.
However if some purple is mixed into the actual glue/solvent cement then you know that joint was actually glued.
You can solvent weld with nothing more than primer if done with care and a super tight joint. I'm not saying you should, just that in theory, you can.
The cement is just primer + dissolved PVC mixed together as filler, as far as I'm aware.
If the primer doesn't soften the pvc, there's something seriously wrong.Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment0 -
Years ago on smaller diameter pipe we would use sand cloth to remove the sheen on the pvc. The bright shiny stuff on the pipe. Than we would glue the pipe. It would hold water pressure.
My thinking is that the primer removes the sheen only, exposing the raw pvc to allow for the glue to make the solvent weld.
The dye, or purple added to the primer isn't a filler. It only serves the purpose of the visual. At Least that has been my understanding from the onset of this that started back in the mid nineteen eighties.0 -
To properly solvent weld PVC pipe you are to first clean the pipe and remove the sheen. This is before primer is to be used.Intplm. said:Years ago on smaller diameter pipe we would use sand cloth to remove the sheen on the pvc. The bright shiny stuff on the pipe. Than we would glue the pipe. It would hold water pressure.
My thinking is that the primer removes the sheen only, exposing the raw pvc to allow for the glue to make the solvent weld.
The dye, or purple added to the primer isn't a filler. It only serves the purpose of the visual. At Least that has been my understanding from the onset of this that started back in the mid nineteen eighties.
Primers job is to partially dissolve the plastic.
I've also not been able to find a single glue, or pipe manufacturer that says it's ok to not use primer under any circumstances. Not a single one....
Can anyone provide documentation that states this?Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment1 -
The thing is.....way back in 1983 was the first time my boss showed me this. One inch pvc. Cleaned it like it was copper. Applied pvc glue and waited a few minutes. Turned the water on. Worked. Was his common practice to do it this way. What did I know. I was fresh out of trade school and a apprentice. I have done it a few times here and there over the years since. I don't make it my way of doing things because it is easier to use primer.
I was also taught in trade school that the primer was the cleaner. The primer is what cleans the pipe. So to clean it with something else before cleaning it with the primer? Not something I have ever done unless the pipe was completely disgusting.
@ChrisJ I have also not been able to find one single manufacturer that states this either.
Maybe attribute it to a "trick of the trade" for when you are out on a call in the middle of the night in the middle of nowhere and you find yourself without any primer left.0 -
I usually take a sacrificial rag (clean) and once the brush comes out of the can, dab it on the rag before you touch anything. Primer has such a propensity to absorb into the rag, and such a fast evaporation rate, that by the time I need the rag again, its dry. One rag lasts quit a long time. Faster that trying to dab it off in the can and less chance of staining something important.
On a side not, 50% dish soap to 50% water will take a small primer stain out of lambs wool carpeting with a tooth brush and a little dabbing with paper towels. Not that I was EVER careless enough to spill three drops on the brand new lambs wool carpet that was $160/yd uninstalled.....no, not me....0 -
I always whacked the primer brush on a sacrificial cardboard box, usually the little giant box from the condensate pump used on the job..
Then nice and slow, as little pressure as possible.. if it drips, hide it or cut a new piece!0 -
Sometimes I get a perfect joint with a purple filet all the way around, but more often than not, it's imperfect. The stuff goes everywhere and will be there until after I'm gone. Such an embarrassment.
Thanks, guys for all the very useful tips. I like the rag or the Little Giant box to prep the dauber.8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab1
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