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Bypassing Beckett 51950U A/C Ready Kit

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So I've been getting clicking coming from the relay inside the Beckett A/C ready base plate. I can jiggle things around a little and get it to work for a while, but it keeps failing. Looks like these things are becoming more and more expensive and harder to find.
Since I do not have A/C on this unit and my thermostat does not even have a fan mode, I was wondering if I an just bypass it with the parts I already have. I know it might be easy, but I haven't had to re-wire any of these things, so I was hoping for some guidance. I think it should be easy enough, but it's getting really cold in a couple days and I'd love to have this thing out of the way!

Thanks in advance! Also, if anyone has access to photos of what I need to or a video of the process, that would be phenomenal!







Comments

  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,505
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    It needs a transformer for a reason.
    Why not get another AC ready kit? Cheaper than getting an 8184M, unless you have one on hand. But with the M you'll lose pre/post purge.

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  • talkingsasquach
    talkingsasquach Member Posts: 10
    edited February 2019
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    Steve, this was the info I was looking for. I thought the transformer was only for the A/C and was not necessary for normal operation. If this is the case and I can not simply wire around it for just heat, I can buy a new one.

    So this is the only course of action? Replace the kit or replace the whole primary?
  • talkingsasquach
    talkingsasquach Member Posts: 10
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    So I was reading this thread : https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/153378/becket-r7184b-not-working-properly
    Someone said that you could take the red and white wires from my thermostat (which has it's own batteries and is digital) that are currently plugged into the R&W screws on the AC strip and attach them directly into the relay where the red and white wires from the AC kit attach. Is this the case?

    I don't have air conditioning and I don't have a fan only mode on my battery powered thermostat. If I can just do that, it will give me more time to get a replacement it. Thanks again for all advice!
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,505
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    What type of furnace. I think, you have some of those wires going to you limits, or other relays connected to your board.
    Can you take a good picture of the wiring diagram?

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  • talkingsasquach
    talkingsasquach Member Posts: 10
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    STEVEusPA What other working diagram can I get you? This is everything I can find, hopefully it's enough. Thanks so much for the help!

    I can get the part by Wednesday but Tuesday is supposed to be really cold and I don't want it to fail while I'm at work and leave the wife freezing!
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 5,847
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    You can do what you wrote. Remove the Red and White wires from TT on the primary.
    Connect the Red and White wires from the thermostat to TT on the primary.
    You need to also add a jumper between R and G. This will give constant fan but it needs to be that way so the burner circuit doesn't have to rely on the limit for fan control.
    The fan will always be on and the burner will cycle on and off as needed.
    You can get the Beckett A/C Ready Kit less transformer. Just leave the existing there.
    You'll need to disconnect and reconnect all the primary wiring so take a reference pic before hand.
    STEVEusaPA
  • talkingsasquach
    talkingsasquach Member Posts: 10
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    Thank you so much! I haven't been about to find the kit without the transformer. I can get it for like $60 with shipping with the transformer. I was thinking I would just unclip the plastic piece with the connectors and just use that part so I don't have to redo all the wiring inside the primary. Good idea? Bad idea?
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 5,847
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    Nope. Gotta take the primary off. The plate for the kit sandwiches between the primary and the junction box.
    No biggie though. Good light and needle nose pliers should do it for the wires on the back of the primary.
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,505
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    HVACNUT said:

    Nope. Gotta take the primary off. The plate for the kit sandwiches between the primary and the junction box...

    Unless you carefully and strategically snip the plate...

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  • talkingsasquach
    talkingsasquach Member Posts: 10
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    Careful and strategic is my middle name(s)
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,505
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    Where do you live that you can’t get one locally?

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  • talkingsasquach
    talkingsasquach Member Posts: 10
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    I'm in CT. Just ordered one online from PA, hopefully get it on Tuesday
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,505
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    Sid Harvey and Johnston’s supply both have them. One of them is probably near you.

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  • talkingsasquach
    talkingsasquach Member Posts: 10
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    Do they sell commercial?
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,505
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    Both of them sell to the public

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  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 4,877
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    Both of them sell to the public

    Not out here!
    SuperTech
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 6,505
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    pecmsg said:

    Both of them sell to the public

    Not out here!
    Where's 'here'? I have an account w/Sid's which only matters if I order online, and United Refrigeration (not Johnstone, my goof) told me my prices were the same whether I had an account or not.

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  • talkingsasquach
    talkingsasquach Member Posts: 10
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    If anything is interested, you can unclip the screw rail from the bracket, no need to even open the primary relay!
  • talkingsasquach
    talkingsasquach Member Posts: 10
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    Showing the same bad solder points and heat damage as other people with the same issue. Wish you could just buy the plastic piece but whatever, it's fixed!

    Thanks everyone for the help!
  • BugsyBob
    BugsyBob Member Posts: 1
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    The relay clicks because the resistor is limiting the voltage. The relay specs are not being met for the hold voltage. The resistor is also undersized power wise and should be shorted out. The relay is specified for 25VAC and is not getting the full voltage.