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Becket r7184b not working properly

I have an oil furnace in my home. The control module as mentioned in title is a Becket r7184b. It has worked fine but this winter when I fired it up it has been working intermittently and clicking alot. I'm an electrician and I would describe the sound as like an arc but clearly there is none going on. When the signal to come on hits the module there is an audible "click". Same when told to cutoff by the thermostat. The rapid clicking seems like it's going back and forth between the two. If I stand there and hold the wires a certain way it will work as should but soon as I let go it stops. And sometimes it will just work fine for a few hours. I'm I right in assuming it's the old signal cable from my thermostat or is the control poopied out?

Comments

  • BobCBobC Posts: 4,808Member
    Try pulling on each of those wires, sometimes solid wire will fracture under the insulation and flexing the cable will make or break contact. Also there could be a a bad solder joint on the Honeywell control.

    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
  • ShakinittwiceShakinittwice Posts: 12Member
    I have taken the wire off and put on crimp connectors in hopes of making a better connection and it still does it. I have found if I wedge something under the contact side of the control it works. But that's just a temporary band-aid
  • billtwocasebilltwocase Posts: 2,385Member
    Pics always help. What unit is this on? Is it a boiler, warm air? Where does the thermostat connect to?
  • billtwocasebilltwocase Posts: 2,385Member
    If warm air, does it have zone dampers?
  • ShakinittwiceShakinittwice Posts: 12Member
    It's for heat. And it's on a Honeywell.
  • billtwocasebilltwocase Posts: 2,385Member
    does your thermostat tie into the cad cell control directly? Have you disconnected the "T-T" wires, and jumped it out to see if that makes a difference?
  • ShakinittwiceShakinittwice Posts: 12Member
    You're speaking Greek to me.
  • billtwocasebilltwocase Posts: 2,385Member
    can you post some pics? You said you are an electrician, have you had any wiring experience with oil systems?
  • billtwocasebilltwocase Posts: 2,385Member
    I don't want to say just change the control, when it may not be the culprit
  • ShakinittwiceShakinittwice Posts: 12Member
    I do commercial construction not control and hvac
  • billtwocasebilltwocase Posts: 2,385Member
    Ok. What thermostat do have?
  • ShakinittwiceShakinittwice Posts: 12Member
    You can see the clothes pin I have wedged in there to make it work properly
  • BobCBobC Posts: 4,808Member
    i suspect a cracked solder joint that you have temperarily fixed with your wedge.

    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
  • ShakinittwiceShakinittwice Posts: 12Member
    So it's easiest for me to get a new control?
  • billtwocasebilltwocase Posts: 2,385Member
    edited January 2015
    I would be just as, or more concerned with the oil leak going on. Looks like a Lennox, Bryant, or one of those beauties. The adapter plate itself can be replaced. That is for A/C capability whether you have it or not. The main board is in the blower compartment in the line of fire with the oil leak. I would look into that as well. Looks like maybe an Olsen?
  • ShakinittwiceShakinittwice Posts: 12Member
    That oil was from when I had to bleed my line not a leak. And like I said earlier idk what any of those mean. I was looking at replacement controls on eBay hoping that would fix it.
  • billtwocasebilltwocase Posts: 2,385Member
    Heads up, that control has been out of production for a few years, You will have to upgrade to a Genisys
  • ShakinittwiceShakinittwice Posts: 12Member
    Yeah I know. Found one for around 55 on eBay. Is the installation easy?
  • KakashiKakashi Posts: 88Member
    8184M if you want easy.
    I don't think I have ever heard a 7184 a,b, or u click. Jump out R and W at the 7184 and see if it clicks.
  • billtwocasebilltwocase Posts: 2,385Member
    Easy would be a Genisys. The wiring is the same. Those 3 wire controls should not exist anymore
  • icesailoricesailor Posts: 7,265Member
    "" Those 3 wire controls should not exist anymore ""

    They exist on E-Bay. Someone bought up all the discontinued ones from someone and now sell them on the Internet. Cheap, used, and with no warranty if you need one.
  • MarzMarz Posts: 90Member
    Keep in mind that there is a micro relay in the A/C ready kit beneath the control. We have had to replace many of those terminal strips / a/c ready kit.
  • ShakinittwiceShakinittwice Posts: 12Member
    If I get a gensys the swap should be straight forward right
  • MarzMarz Posts: 90Member
    Not always, Genesys needs to be programmed depending on your current setup. More than likely you have to set pre purge to 15 seconds, and 0 second post purge. Or try to order the 7505B1500. Which comes out of the box with that setup. If your problems persist order the terminal strip.
  • Robert O'BrienRobert O'Brien Posts: 3,025Member
    Marz has it,the subbase is bad,. happens all the time
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
  • ShakinittwiceShakinittwice Posts: 12Member

    OK guys thanks for all the input. What should be my next plan of action? Do I buy a control? If so which one? Here is a picture of the oil
  • KakashiKakashi Posts: 88Member
    I only have one 8184g on my van for...older people.

    7284u or the gensys one is your best bet if the sound is coming from the control.
  • burnermanburnerman Posts: 297Member
    a/c Ready kit .. this looks like an Armstrong . Makes a noise and burner shuts off... sorta high pitched screeh I replaced two last week... mark the wire and replace...
  • wrooperwrooper Posts: 23Member
    coincidentally I have what appears to be the exact setup as the OP . It is in a new to me "flip" house and I am getting intermittent loss of thermostat signal and a "crackling" noise at the terminal strip. Robert O Brien suggested the "sub base" was bad while agreeing with Marz's comment about the terminal strip which has confused me. I have reattached the thermostat wire at the terminal strip which stopped the crackling noise temporarily. But while I was away overnight the furnace lost signal again. Could the terminal strip have gone bad? it seems like a pretty dumb thing to fail [ie no moving parts or solder] What is the sub base that Robert refers to? Thanks
  • burnermanburnerman Posts: 297Member
    the a/c ready kit can be by passed for heat... take off red and white on relay and use the red and white from thermostat... if this solves your inter mitate problem you will know for sure its the sub base
  • wrooperwrooper Posts: 23Member
    Is "sub base" the black plastic terminal block? Is the A/C kit the black terminal block? If so what do I order? Thanks
  • wrooperwrooper Posts: 23Member
    Burnerman, If I bypass the terminal block/sub base and connect directly to the control will I lose 24V power to the thermostat? I have a classic round "dumb" thermostat. Can I just leave it bypassed?
  • HschellHschell Posts: 2Member
    question To the original post I have what looks to be the exact same furnace and burner set up. Mine started doing the exact same thing you are talking about and I to have tried everything and am at a loss, just wondering what exactly was the problem and how did you resolve it. I think it is also thermostat related but have tried everything with that too
  • HschellHschell Posts: 2Member
    Hey by the looks of it i have the exact same furnace and set up as you...my furnace started doing the exact same thing i am jusy wondering what did you find was the problem. Mine the clicking sound comes from the little board where all the thermostat wires and everything connect too. I think this could be the problem
  • HarryHydroHarryHydro Posts: 1Member
    Hi: I have the same setup, and problem. That terminal strip sits on a little PC Board with a SPDT relay and a resistor across the coil, which I suspect is just a snubber. That resistor cooks as long as the termostat in the house is closed! It appears to melt the solder! On the strip, the two end screws, 1 and 5, are the relay coil (and resistor). Mine ohms out to 180. That's about 3 watts at 24V. The three middle screws go to nothing on the board.. The Red and White wires are attached to the relay contacts, closed when energized. I bet the heat has cracked some traces, which should be a simple fix..
    -Harry
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