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2-Pipe Convector

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Ran into a customer yesterday who had 2 baths (at opposite ends of the house) renovated and convectors installed on a 2-pipe system. All is quiet except for these two, which are quite loud with boiling water sounds.

Seems to me that once the trap closes the only place for the condensate to go is down the supply, and this is causing the noise. Can convectors be piped in this manner? Thoughts?


New England SteamWorks
Service, Installation, & Restoration of Steam Heating Systems
newenglandsteamworks.com

Comments

  • hvacfreak2
    hvacfreak2 Member Posts: 500
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    I guess if this were an old Victorian radiator the same would be true ( regarding the condensate ) wouldn't it ? The difference is the supply pipe size doesn't look as though it is up to the task of handling condensate and steam. From a contracting standpoint I think you are correct though , those traps are heading down to the basement ( or wrecked out ).
    hvacfreak

    Mechanical Enthusiast

    Burnham MST 396 , 60 oz gauge , Tigerloop , Firomatic Check Valve , Mcdonnell Miller 67 lwco , Danfoss RA2k TRV's

    Easyio FG20 Controller

  • Danny Scully
    Danny Scully Member Posts: 1,425
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    I don’t know that I’d consider that a convector but rather a recessed cast iron radiator :wink: Try pitching the radiator dead flat, and possibly use eccentric bushings. Maybe removing the steam trap and adding an orifice could work too.
  • New England SteamWorks
    New England SteamWorks Member Posts: 1,505
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    > @hvacfreak2 said:
    > I guess if this were an old Victorian radiator the same would be true ( regarding the condensate ) wouldn't it ?

    Well, normally you’d see the supply piped to the top of the radiator. In which case the condensate can lay at the bottom until it cools, and then exit via the trap.

    Maybe this is one of those deals where there needs to be a cooling leg before the trap?
    New England SteamWorks
    Service, Installation, & Restoration of Steam Heating Systems
    newenglandsteamworks.com
  • New England SteamWorks
    New England SteamWorks Member Posts: 1,505
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    And correct @Danny Scully , not a convector in the traditional sense, but these units do convect.
    New England SteamWorks
    Service, Installation, & Restoration of Steam Heating Systems
    newenglandsteamworks.com
  • Paul_87
    Paul_87 Member Posts: 37
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    I would think you need to pitch it pretty heavy towards the return or size the supply as if it were a one pipe supply to handle the condensate.
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,376
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    It would seem that the way it's piped is the problem. If I understand Burnham's literature, the supply and return are different sizes and they're reversed. As Danny said, the concentric bushing is causing water to pool in the bottom of the rad.



    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
    STEVEusaPA
  • Chris_L
    Chris_L Member Posts: 336
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    For what it's worth, I have one of these radiators in my bathroom. It is a one-pipe, is level, with the supply on the right, and it is silent. Even though condensate is certainly pooling on the (left) plugged end.

    The Burnham sheet is confusing. One dimension (F) is the pipe size, the other (C) the height above the floor. The two ends are the same.

    I would wonder if the trap is working properly.
  • New England SteamWorks
    New England SteamWorks Member Posts: 1,505
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    Trap is working.

    I’m on the road, but if someone could find in TLAOS where Dan writes about a cooling leg in such circumstances, it would be greatly appreciated.
    New England SteamWorks
    Service, Installation, & Restoration of Steam Heating Systems
    newenglandsteamworks.com
  • ethicalpaul
    ethicalpaul Member Posts: 5,704
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    Page 215 I think you're looking for.

    "Since the condensate has to cool about 20 degrees below the saturated temperature of the steam, you'll sometimes see a "cooling leg" before a thermostatic trap when it's used to trap piping.

    "The cooling leg gives the condensate a place to cool off so the trap can operate without backing water up into the pipes. Cast-iron radiators have large internal spaces so they don't need cooling legs. There's plenty of room in there for the condensate to spread out and cool.

    "You'll more often see a cooling leg when the thermostatic trap serves a radiator without a lot of internal space (baseboard, for instance) or drips the base of a riser. Many older systems used thermostatic traps for dripping risers. They're slow to react, though, and hold water back in the system. Nowadays, you'll more likely see F&T traps on riser drips."

    Then it goes more into F&T traps and there's no more about cooling legs, at least for quite awhile...sometimes Dan wanders a bit :wink:
    NJ Steam Homeowner. See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el
  • Paul_87
    Paul_87 Member Posts: 37
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    If it’s a Burnham Radiant which it looks like it is both tappings are 1 1/4”.
  • New England SteamWorks
    New England SteamWorks Member Posts: 1,505
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    Can one use either tapping? Or is that one of the problems?
    New England SteamWorks
    Service, Installation, & Restoration of Steam Heating Systems
    newenglandsteamworks.com
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 16,856
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    I think there is water pooling at the inlet connection, and the steam has to get up through it, causing the noise. The way this thing is constructed, pitching it won't help. Is there any way you can increase the size of the steam connection to allow for some counter-flow?
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • New England SteamWorks
    New England SteamWorks Member Posts: 1,505
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    > @Steamhead said:
    > I think there is water pooling at the inlet connection, and the steam has to get up through it, causing the noise. The way this thing is constructed, pitching it won't help. Is there any way you can increase the size of the steam connection to allow for some counter-flow?

    No. But I think I could remove the trap and reinstall it in the basement before it tees into the dry return. That should provide for plenty of condensate storage, as they are on the 2nd floor.
    New England SteamWorks
    Service, Installation, & Restoration of Steam Heating Systems
    newenglandsteamworks.com
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 16,856
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    Problem is, water at the inlet connection doesn't make its way to the trap.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • New England SteamWorks
    New England SteamWorks Member Posts: 1,505
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    Because the trap is closed, no?
    New England SteamWorks
    Service, Installation, & Restoration of Steam Heating Systems
    newenglandsteamworks.com
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 16,856
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    Because the water has to go UP from the steam connection to get to the level where it can travel horizontally and drop down to the trap. Water is lazy and doesn't like to do that.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • clammy
    clammy Member Posts: 3,113
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    Just a idea how about u make a orifice plate with a top hole that’s acts as the feed orfice and a lower drain notch or cut that allows the condensate to drain down the riser . Hopefully w a small enough supply hole u can lower the velocity entering the raditor and in effect the riser and that would help drain any water pooling not to say that may not cause hammer in the riser at it s horizontal . Not to bust but had to ask is the boiler piped correctly and pipes insulated I can attest to decrease in issues on systems just by them being properly insulated .as heard echoing in space it worked till u showed up lol peace and good luck clammy
    R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
    NJ Master HVAC Lic.
    Mahwah, NJ
    Specializing in steam and hydronic heating
  • New England SteamWorks
    New England SteamWorks Member Posts: 1,505
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    Now that I am back at the shop and can see the Burnham stuff on my desktop, -it seems pretty obvious to me that the problem is that the supply and return are reversed. Right?

    What's not to understand about "System Flow" with an arrow?
    New England SteamWorks
    Service, Installation, & Restoration of Steam Heating Systems
    newenglandsteamworks.com
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,376
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    That, plus the concentric bushing causing water to pool.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • hvacfreak2
    hvacfreak2 Member Posts: 500
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    Someone mentioned that they have one supplied from the right and it's quiet. Either way moving the trap ( or gutting it ) and drip the spindly riser may be easier at this point depending on the working room in the basement.
    hvacfreak

    Mechanical Enthusiast

    Burnham MST 396 , 60 oz gauge , Tigerloop , Firomatic Check Valve , Mcdonnell Miller 67 lwco , Danfoss RA2k TRV's

    Easyio FG20 Controller

  • Gsmith
    Gsmith Member Posts: 432
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    Is the front and back of this radiator/convector the same? If so, take it out and reverse it end to end. Can’t tell from the cut sheet.
  • Paul_87
    Paul_87 Member Posts: 37
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    “Now that I am back at the shop and can see the Burnham stuff on my desktop, -it seems pretty obvious to me that the problem is that the supply and return are reversed. Right?

    What's not to understand about "System Flow" with an arrow?”



    I think you’re looking at the wrong picture. Look at the one on the top of the specs. There is no difference between the left and right tappings on that radiator. They are identical. The one you are looking at shows side tappings which that radiator does not have.
  • Chris_L
    Chris_L Member Posts: 336
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    Yes, the supply/return tappings are identical 1-1/4 inch. (My quiet 1-piper is bushed down to 1 inch).

    The only difference between the left and right sections is the locations of the top 1/8" vent tapping (front vs. side).

    That System Flow diagram is not specific to these "Radiant Radiators" as Burnham calls them. The diagram is just showing the generic orientation of the supply (and return if there is one) and the vents for all their radiators used for steam and water. Here is link to the whole thing: https://files.gitshare.io/link/rBDNg1g1CSM/Radiator-Baseboard Product Data Sheet.pdf
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,546
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    I am sure plenty are installed that way and they work fine
    But

    Both supply and return are reduced at the radiator so water is laying in the bottom of the rad all the time.

    The big if is if you have basement access and this is the FF (I hope)

    Put trap in basement and use a eccentric bushing, coupling or reducing 90 in it's place.

    If that's not enough fix change the inlet to a reducing 90