Steam Radiator single pipe air venting rusty smell

KC_Jones

IMHO it shouldn't cost you anything, he made a mistake and should rectify it on his dime. That being said it probably depends on how the contract was written. It's never going to perform properly the way it's piped.

If he can't do that correctly it also makes me wonder if he even sized it correctly. While not your issue it will certainly amplify problems.

nier01

Thank you KC Jones. I'll will contact the installer. But before this pipe be corrected what should i do with my current situation. The rusty venting? Can i insulate the rest of the main pipe? Can i use chemical to clean the other pipes? I dont think I can lower more the pressuretrol setting its the lowest i can do, the screw will lose inside if I do. ... I need to clean my pipes while waiting for header revision. I have a child that is sensitive to this kind of smell.

nicholas bonham-carter

If you can look at the installation manual for the boiler, it will show the piping diagram, with the required pipe sizes for that model of boiler. These are the minimum sizes required. Any reductions in size will cause the boiler to not function properly.
I would think that it should not cost any extra money to have the installer follow the instructions for a correct installation!
I also think that the main vents are not large enough. They should be doing the main work of releasing the air from the system, as the steam is rising. Thus there will be less air escaping from the radiator vents.
Skimming is something which you could easily do, if there has been a pipe put into the boiler, as the manufacturer requires. Look in the manual, and see if it is there.—NBC

BobC

Reducing the boiler output ports is bad practice. Some installers don't have the equipment to thread pipe larger than 2", with forethought this could have been done with store bought nipples IF local suppliers have a good stock of them.

Ignoring the manual is also bad practice.

Bob

nier01

Hi, thank you Nicholas and Bobc. I have 2x Gorton #2 and 1x gorton #1 with 1 main about 28 feet. How many gorton #2 should I add to the antler to make it work better. Again I appreciate it all guys.

ChrisJ

Reducing boiler output ports isn't bad practice, some of them are too big, some aren't. It takes someone that knows what they're doing to properly pipe a boiler.

I used two 2" risers on my WM EG series and bushed the ports down from 3". It's still technically oversized.

A boiler does need to be piped correctly.

nier01

Thank you ChrisJ for your reply. As you said a Boiler needs to know to piped correctly. My boiler output is 3'' then the header is 2''. I think the reducing pipe makes the steam pressure higher, thus the radiator vent faster therefore hisses and make noise. And since the 3'' pipe is shorter, the ratio from 3'' to 2'' makes wet steam. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

ChrisJ

nier01 said:

Thank you ChrisJ for your reply. As you said a Boiler needs to know to piped correctly. My boiler output is 3'' then the header is 2''. I think the reducing pipe makes the steam pressure higher, thus the radiator vent faster therefore hisses and make noise. And since the 3'' pipe is shorter, the ratio from 3'' to 2'' makes wet steam. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

The way yours is piped is very bad.
It's not that it makes pressure high, it makes the velocity high so water gets dragged with the steam.

It would be far better if they ran a 3" into a 3" header.
A 3" riser into a 3" drop header would be even better.


Even if this is causing the pressure in the boiler to run higher, if anything, it's causing the radiators to vent slower not faster. More pressure at the boiler means less at the radiators in this case.

nier01

Chisj, Thank you. I need this boiler to be repipe. I read from googling and thru this forum about drop header. From the picture alone can you tell if it can be done on mine?

ChrisJ

nier01 said:

Chisj, Thank you. I need this boiler to be repipe. I read from googling and thru this forum about drop header. From the picture alone can you tell if it can be done on mine?

I don't see why not.
Is there a good steam contractor in your area?

nier01

i honestly don't know. I met my installer online. My boiler was just installed March 2018.

ChrisJ

nier01 said:

i honestly don't know. I met my installer online. My boiler was just installed March 2018.

What area are you in? Maybe we can recommend someone that does good work.

Unless you are going to try and have the original installer fix it? That would be the best route, if it's possible.

nier01

Hollis, New York 11423

ChrisJ

nier01 said:

Hollis, New York 11423

I believe that would be @JohnNY

nier01

I want the orginal installer to fix his mistakes but worries me if he have the know how hence my situation of the boiler right now.

nicholas bonham-carter

Can he read the boiler installation manual?
Many manufacturers sell the parts necessary for correct piping of a drop header, so no large threading machine needed.
How did you find this installer- maybe Yelp, Angie’s List, or some other supplier of incorrect people?
If only you had come here first for advice!—NBC

nier01

Nicholas, thank you. I found my installer at Yelp good reviews and nice comments on his work. I just found this site because of my radiator venting problem. If he will agree to repipe the boiler, I think I need at least some kind of diagram or drawing so I can suggest it to him. I dont like him repiping it but make it worst.

ethicalpaul

You can google the boiler model to find the installation manual online, or you can send a picture of the rating plate and we can google it for you

nier01

Thank you Ethical Paul. This boiler is Weil Mclain EG45. I have downloaded the manual also.

Fred

@nier01 , I agree that the Header should be larger (3") and it is very short so not much area for water to drop out of the steam and that the installer should return and make it right but I am going to be very surprised if that fixes the reason you came here. We have seen so, so many badly piped systems anywhere from your example to boilers that have no header at all and no one has complained about a rusty water smell. There have been a couple complaints about what may have been the pipe dope or tape used but those were chemical smells, not rusty water.

If I may ask, are you typically sensitive to most smells? Is there anyone else in the household that also smells it and commented(before you brought the issue to their attention)?

I do not believe any change in the near boiler piping will eliminate what you are smelling. I may be wrong but the only way to tell is to move forward and have the piping corrected and see what happens. Also, as I noted earlier in this string the reddish brown "rust" you made note of is a very typical coating on the inside of steam pipes. It is, after all steam and water in bare iron piping. That thin layer of "rust" actually helps protect the iron pipe.

nier01

Hi Fred, Thank you for your reply. I'm not typically sensitive to smell and everyone in the house smells the rusty odor. Once you enter my house you will notice the hint of rust especially when you came in just as the radiator is venting air. I have a 5 year old daughter she is sensitive to smell. That's why i wanna fix this.

I did change the vents itself I bought the gortons which is very good in venting air but since it vents air really good it smells more. I tried the maid o mist not really good. I even tried the cheap one vent less actually but clanks when closing.

I tried manipulating the pressuretrol to 1 psi you can hear the hissing (no water, only one has little water the bathroom closer to boiler). Then i tried 0.5 psi there is still hissing, but I think 0.5 psi can make the boiler cut off short (or maybe i just dialed it down too much the line between 2 and 0.5 is short if you know what i mean.)

Wet steam comes to my mind since the bathroom vent some water ( i use gorton 4). And the guys have pointed out the undersized header can make wet steam.

I'm also thinking maybe the radiator is not pitched that much that water inside the radiator.
Could removing the radiator take them out and flush it with water help?

I should tell you I have changed 2 radiator supply valves and seen the inside pipe that reddish powder I'm talking about is almost the same smell when it is venting.

I have flushed and clean the boiler many times maybe i have introduced oxygen in the system? My water in boiler always goes up when we do laundry. I don't have auto water supply feeder, could my manual supply valve busted and giving more water is giving more oxygen thus more rust? Which one is to fix? I'm out of ideas. Please give me something.

Thank you for giving time to read.

Fred

There is always air in the system at any time when the boiler is not running. Air isn't the issue. I suppose it is possible, with that small header and the radiator being so close to the equalizer that the steam velocity is pushing a lot more water up into the mains. That will cause wet steam but not typically a rust smell. Do try to make sure the radiators are all pitched enough for water to run out of them. Can we see a picture of the typical radiator and valve? If the supply pipe is too small, it may not let water run out of the radiator when steam is entering but even that isn't likely to cause a rust smell as the water would run out after each heat cycle.

There is no way the boiler water should rise when you do laundry. That needs to be fixed as it is not normal and water is leaking past the water supply valve. Are the laundry hot water valves near the boiler? If so, do you have bleach and/or detergents very near the boiler or near a main vent? Those could be a source for some smell and are not good for the life of the boiler. Move chemicals away from the boiler. Also make sure you boiler water level is never above the manufacturer's specifications. You can find that in the owner's manual and it is usually stated in inches above the floor (bottom of the boiler. High water levels can also create wet steam.

I really think you are focused on that coating of rust in those pipes and that is very typical. That is not likely to be an issue as we all have that coating in our pipes with no resulting odor.

JohnNY

So, the poster's got one 3" boiler riser vs the two 2" or one 2-½" riser specified in the manual which also states that a 2" header is fine with the two 2" risers.
I'm all for making things right, but we're thinking that increasing the header to 3" is going to get rid of the poster's rusty-pipe-air-vent smell?
I don't think I could offer any guarantees with this job.

nier01

Thank you Fred,
I will try to pitch more the radiators.
I'll fix the water supply valve. (Mine is connected to hot water, is that typical?)
I normally have my water level about 3/4 or 3/5 in the sight glass.

What if i add insulation on the main pipe? Will that help?

I appreciate the reply.

Chris_L

(Mine is connected to hot water, is that typical?)

No. That is not typical. Was your old boiler connected to the hot water line? And do you have an automatic water feeder?

If I were you, I would turn off the automatic feeder if you have one. Or if not, be sure the supply valve does not leak. Then let the boiler cool completely, fill it with water from a cold water supply line, and let it run for a few days. See what happens.

Fred

@JohnNY , Per my post earlier today, I don't believe the near boiler piping will affect or eliminate the smell. Something else is going on here: "I do not believe any change in the near boiler piping will eliminate what you are smelling. I may be wrong but the only way to tell is to move forward and have the piping corrected and see what happens"

@Chris_L Original poster says she doesn't have an auto feeder. Others do have their boilers connected to hot water. Not a majority but not unusually uncommon. Poster does say that when they do laundry, the boiler water rises. That is extraordinary and should not happen!

nier01

Good morning guys, here one picture radiator with new supply valve. As you can see i have tilted at least 1cm from floor.

nier01

Hey guys, I'd like to inform everyone that the smell is gradually reduced. Like you told me I have done the following...

1. pitched the radiators more.
2. cleaned the boiler... and flushed the return condensate pipe.
3. adjust the pressuretrol to 0.5 psi with 1 diff.
4. i also changed some radiator vents.
5. add 2x gorton#2 to main.

On start up the radiator vents (almost) quietly but when it boiler cycles the radiator vents hisses more.

Thanks for all the help.

Now how to tackle the wet steam?

ethicalpaul

• re-do the near-boiler piping
  
• make sure the boiler doesn't need skimming (you said "cleaning" above so this point isn't clear)
  
• make sure the boiler is firing at the correct rate
  
• make sure the ph isn't too high in the boiler water
  

Those are the things that I can list.

I'm curious about "when the boiler cycles the radiator vents hiss more". What kind of cycling? More than when?

Also is your water level still rising when you do the laundry?? Did you figure out the cause of that?

• make sure your water level is not higher than it should be
  

ImYoungxD

Did you clean the pigtail that is connected to the pressuretroll?
radiator vents shouldn't be hissing "more" after lowering the pressuretroll.

nier01

Thanks, @ethicalpaul,
you said..I'm curious about "when the boiler cycles the radiator vents hiss more". What kind of cycling? More than when?

Well, when the boiler starts after few minutes the radiator will vent almost quietly and the radiator will slowly heat up and before the radiator is really hot or before the thermostat setting is satisfied, the radiator vents again and this time i can really hear the hiss sound. The sound is more than the first vent.

nier01

Thanks @ImYoungxD
Still waiting for my 0-3 pressure gauge and I didn't touch the boiler for few days It was below freezing here couple of days ago.
But definitely cleaning the pigtail is next.

I have a question? What if the pressuretrol needs calibration is that something I can do by myself?
I found thru this site that it can sometimes gives you different psi even after cleaning the pigtail.

ethicalpaul

> and before the radiator is really hot or before the thermostat setting is satisfied, the radiator vents again and this time i can really hear the hiss sound.

Is the boiler firing continuously during this time, or is it reaching the cut-out pressure of the pressuretrol and shutting down for a brief time? (you said the thermostat isn't satisfied, so I ask)

If the boiler is reaching cut-out, then it should fall back to the cut-in and fire up again before the complete loss of pressure that would cause the radiator vents to be venting much.

nier01

@ethicalpaul
Yes the boiler will stop after few minutes (i'll time it next time) then starts again after few minutes. Its probably because of the pressuretrol. I haven't cleaned the pigtail yet. Cold here for a couple of days. Ill definitely clean it soon. Also putting 0-3 psi pressure gauge.

nier01

@ethicalpaul

thanks for this list.
1. re-do the near-boiler piping
2. make sure the boiler doesn't need skimming (you said "cleaning" above so this point isn't clear)
3. make sure the boiler is firing at the correct rate
4. make sure the ph isn't too high in the boiler water

I'll ask a pro to re-pipe the near boiler piping and skim it again.

My ph is around 8.4 to 8.6 (digital ph meter)

But how to know the boiler firing correct rate?

JUGHNE

I looked thru your pictures and never saw your LWCO.
Would it be a Cycleguard by chance?

nier01

Thanks @JUGHNE,
I will take a look later when i get home.
But may I ask why the cycleguard?

JUGHNE

You mentioned short cycling and not sure if the P-control is doing it. Your new gauge will tell you.

Cycleguard will shut the boiler off to check the water level and then restart, in the meantime you have lost your steam that was just starting to build up.
They are considered counterproductive to good steam production as they add more cycles.

I believe most who install boilers here have a pile of them in a graveyard somewhere.

nier01

I googled LWCO and based on the pictures I saw I think my LWCO is safgard. It has the 1 led on top.

Is Safgard have the same function as Cyclegard?

ImYoungxD

nier01 said:

Thanks @ImYoungxD
Still waiting for my 0-3 pressure gauge and I didn't touch the boiler for few days It was below freezing here couple of days ago.
But definitely cleaning the pigtail is next.

I have a question? What if the pressuretrol needs calibration is that something I can do by myself?
I found thru this site that it can sometimes gives you different psi even after cleaning the pigtail.

The pressuretroll can be calibrated. It's very sensitive but easy to calibrate. Calibrate after you install your 0-3 gauge. Get the boiler pressure up and start calibrating. Get it to turn off at 1.5-2.0 PSI. Make sure the pressuretroll calls for heat when the pressure goes down. I was able to calibrate it to 1.7 PSI. Any lower and it wouldn't turn my system on.

See this link
https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/149944/i-figured-out-how-to-calibrate-a-pressuretrol