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One of my other hats that I wear

Ironman
Ironman Member Posts: 6,359
edited May 2018 in THE MAIN WALL
Getting ready for opening day at the ball park where our county league team plays. I'm on the board so I take care of electrical and mechanical issues.

I found the entire bank of 13 lights out on the left field line. The butt splice connecting 2/0 al to #2 cu had burnt up along with the manual disconnect switch to which it was connected. For those not familiars with these larger crimp connectors: you can't use a wire size (#2 cu) that's three sizes smaller than the connector (2/0). It's a wonder it lasted 15 years with the amount of current these lights pull.





Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
Steve MinnichkcoppSolid_Fuel_Man

Comments

  • Hey there, Bob:
    I've seen that happen on aluminum wire before where the connection loosened and the aluminum wire started to arc.
    Often wrong, never in doubt.
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 8,261
    I would use the H-type crimp. Blackburn WR series will do just about any combo in those sizes. IIRC the WR 289 with the "O" die does that connection. Fairly compact and easy to tape up.
    Ironmanratio
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 6,359
    edited May 2018
    JUGHNE said:

    I would use the H-type crimp. Blackburn WR series will do just about any combo in those sizes. IIRC the WR 289 with the "O" die does that connection. Fairly compact and easy to tape up.

    Agreed, but not readily available from our local supply houses. So, I used the splice blocks. I've got the hydraulic press tool, but they only stock butt connectors.

    Now Dominion Power... they have all kinds of goodies.

    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 6,359

    Hey there, Bob:
    I've seen that happen on aluminum wire before where the connection loosened and the aluminum wire started to arc.

    Alan, I've seen it more times than I can remember. To my knowledge, I've never had one of mine do it, but I'm very careful to do it "by the book". When you cut corners, this is the result. Aluminum wire is just not forgiving at all.

    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 8,261
    Your fuse blocks look stressed. How far from the fuse block are the AL-CU transitions?
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 6,359
    The burnt one was replaced with the new one in the last pic.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 6,359
    JUGHNE said:

    I would use the H-type crimp. Blackburn WR series will do just about any combo in those sizes. IIRC the WR 289 with the "O" die does that connection. Fairly compact and easy to tape up.

    Now you've made me feel bad. I just ordered some WR 289's online. I'll use them on the next pole as I'm sure it was done the same way.

    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 8,261
    There are also snap on covers for that WR series.
    They were intended for outdoor use with drain/vent openings.
    For J-box use I would tape up completely and then snap a cover over the tape to avoid any wear on the tape.
    Ironman
  • Solid_Fuel_Man
    Solid_Fuel_Man Member Posts: 2,257
    Hey, at least you got remote ballasts! Nice work, we just did a ball field last summer. All with 1500Watt MH spots. Ballasts in the fixtures, used fixtures too.....
    Serving Northern Maine HVAC & Controls. I burn wood, it smells good!
    Ironman
  • Harvey Ramer
    Harvey Ramer Member Posts: 2,215
    I've been using the WR series connectors for the last 10 years with zero issues. I have a hydraulic crimper, and I really want a cordless crimper like the linemen keeping flaunting in my face. I just don't do enough to justify it. Although I have a ratcheting cable cutter that turns the linemen green with envy.
    Ramer Mechanical
    ramermechanical.com
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 6,359
    edited May 2018

    I've been using the WR series connectors for the last 10 years with zero issues. I have a hydraulic crimper, and I really want a cordless crimper like the linemen keeping flaunting in my face. I just don't do enough to justify it. Although I have a ratcheting cable cutter that turns the linemen green with envy.

    It's the same with me Harvey. I've the Burndy MD68 hand crimper and a hydraulic one that goes up to 750m, but I just don't use them enough to justify buying a cordless... unless the right deal comes along.

    I've been kinda hoping someone would come out with a crimper head that would connect to my ProPress.

    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • Harvey Ramer
    Harvey Ramer Member Posts: 2,215
    Ironman said:

    I've been using the WR series connectors for the last 10 years with zero issues. I have a hydraulic crimper, and I really want a cordless crimper like the linemen keeping flaunting in my face. I just don't do enough to justify it. Although I have a ratcheting cable cutter that turns the linemen green with envy.

    It's the same with me Harvey. I've the Burndy MD68 hand crimper and a hydraulic one that goes up to 750m, but I just don't use them enough to justify buying a cordless... unless the right deal comes along.

    I've been kinda hoping someone would come out with a crimper head that would connect to my ProPress.

    I'm not sure if greenlee might have something? Seems I recall seeing something like that at a trade show.
    Ramer Mechanical
    ramermechanical.com
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 6,359
    I did the right field line pole today. It hadn't burnt up at the splices yet, but "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure".

    Here are the old splices:



    And here are the new including a new fuse block:




    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • Harvey Ramer
    Harvey Ramer Member Posts: 2,215
    Is that copper to aluminum? That might explain the failure of the splices.
    Ramer Mechanical
    ramermechanical.com
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 6,359

    Is that copper to aluminum? That might explain the failure of the splices.

    It is, but the failure of the butt splices was that the #2 cu wire was three sizes too small for the connector. That's why the connector is deformed.

    The H tap connectors that I used are rated for cu./al.

    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • Harvey Ramer
    Harvey Ramer Member Posts: 2,215
    Gotcha
    Ramer Mechanical
    ramermechanical.com
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
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