Indirect Water heater installation issues

pyrotalk

We recently replaced the Amtrol 42 gal water heater to Burnham Model# AL35SL 35 gal indirect water heater and ever since, the heat doesnt flow. Replace the pressure reducing valve and again, no heat. The boiler seems to fire up but somewhat the pressure keeps dropping to 5 psi. I do get hot water. I have a Weil-Mclain II-4 boiler, 10K BTU/hr. They should be compatible.. Then what would the problem be?

thanks

nicholas bonham-carter

You might want to repost this to the main wall, where more eyes will be on it than in radiant heating.
What does your installer think about the problem?
Were the manufacturer’s installation instructions followed? Post some pictures of the boiler and its piping.
Are you sure the pressure gauge is accurate?
When exactly does the pressure drop?—NBC

Simply Rad

Since you just had your indirect replaced and the system was cut into for the install, I would look at air lock in the heating system. A proper purge would be the first place to start. Check the fill valve and expansion tank also. Have you spoken with the contractor about the problem?

newagedawn

a pic of the install would be nice, i agree with simply rad tho, but its a guess at best

pyrotalk

Thanks. Plumber tightened the wire nuts and connections to module. The zones valves are calling for heat and the furnace module is working. (powers on) He touched the circulator pump and felt vibration so all 3 are working. He tightened the backflow that was leaking but in doing so, he dislodged this joint valve and now is leaking (can anyone guess what it is) He Called Mclain and they suggested to add a secondary transformer because is drawing too much power from the 3 zone valves and the burnham water tank. Right now, i have one transformer. I dont know if this correct. Also need to change the expansion tank.i didnt had this problem before. and one transformer was doing the job but i suppose is doable. Has anyone had to add a second transformer??

kcopp

Does that have the TPI controller on it? Pretty good chance it is not wired right. It needs a separate power source. Looking at the rats nest of wiring not surprised that that's the issue

RomanP

What is your pressure when the system is off?

JUGHNE

Is your expansion tank just hanging on that pipe? It is possible that if it gets water logged the weight will crack a fitting.

Is there a control wire laying on the exhaust right at the boiler?
That gets hot enough to melt wire insulation.

Should start over with the wiring, IMO

Wiring might be simpler with a single larger transformer.

Zman

If that mess of wiring is powered by the boilers's transformer, that is likely the problem. I product like this one would clean everything up and give you domestic priority.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Taco-ZVC404-4-4-Zone-Valve-Control-Module-with-Priority?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_6zB25nO2gIVhLrACh2K7gP3EAQYAiABEgLD6vD_BwE

It is impossible to determine if the piping is correct from you pictures. How did your check valve get so abused? Is the pressure drop only when the circ is on? Where is the PRV?

I have concerns about the contractor that did not immediately recommend cleaning up the wiring.

Jamie Hall

The picture is a backflow preventer. And even I can do a better soldering job...

RomanP

As far as additional transformer goes, check your zone valves amperage in specs. ( or VA rating). Honeywell’s should be around .3 add all 3 together to get your combined amperage. Then Check that number against your transformers capacity. And if transformers capacity is enough, then the answer is “NO” need for additional transformer. Plus, I wouldn’t listen too much into tech support. Because, as experience shows, 50% of the people on the other side of the phone call, shouldn’t even be there

DZoro

You have air in the system. There is no proper automatic air separator in the system. Only one you have is a small air vent which is not capable of removing large amounts of air that is in the system.
Chances are good that if it wasn't recently changed it probably doesn't even work.

Mark Eatherton

pyrotalk said:

Thanks. Plumber tightened the wire nuts and connections to module. The zones valves are calling for heat and the furnace module is working. (powers on) He touched the circulator pump and felt vibration so all 3 are working. He tightened the backflow that was leaking but in doing so, he dislodged this joint valve and now is leaking (can anyone guess what it is) He Called Mclain and they suggested to add a secondary transformer because is drawing too much power from the 3 zone valves and the burnham water tank. Right now, i have one transformer. I dont know if this correct. Also need to change the expansion tank.i didnt had this problem before. and one transformer was doing the job but i suppose is doable. Has anyone had to add a second transformer??

I see wrench marks on the copper tubing... An indication that the mechanic doesn't really know what he's doing. I suspect the tank is air locked as others have said. May be other issues, but that one needs resolved first.

ME

HomerJSmith

What do you mean "the heat doesn't flow"? I'm dumb, you have to spell it out for me.

The Honeywell zone valves draw 7.7 Volt Amps (VA) each when they are activated.

pyrotalk

The pictures says 40 VA. So i called Honeywell Tech and they computed to be 1.67 Total Amps.
Some say here that each zone valve has 0.3 amp (7.7VA) for a total of 3 zone valves = 0.9amp (23.1). So we should be well below the amp limit for the transformer. Either McClain is lying or the plumber pulled a prank call on me lol. Plumber did mentioned that the Burnham 35gal draws a bit of current as well. I thought whatever current will come from the zone valve

yea, the expansion tank should be supported. i hate how is installed. i cant check the pressure. too close to the wall

Also, how do i determine if the backflow is damaged or just need tightening. The plumber might want to change it and charged me for extra work

thanks



Video of backflow:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gxaLGCoBJPe0xHEOdlOyMPy1voP5AeE2

Zman

Please stop letting people latch onto the valve and pipe with vise grips.

The large nuts on either side of the valve are unions. Inside the union is a flat washer. The washer is likely worn out and in need of replacement. If you use 2 wrenches, using opposing force, to open the unions, you can remove the washer. Any supply house or good hardware store will be able to size replacements. Clean the smooth faces in the union and install the new washers.

Tinman

@HomerJSmith Water flows. Heat transfers.