Burnham IN5 Steam Boiler Runs With An Empty Gauge Glass

geoprell

I recently had a gas conversion to a Burnham IN5 steam boiler (358 sq. ft. steam). It replaced an oil fired Weil-Mclain 368 steam boiler (355 sq. ft.steam).
The boiler was installed with a single Supply Riser out of the boiler (second Supply Port is plugged).
The boiler has a water auto-feed with a probe type low water cut off. The Pressuretrol setting is 3.0 psi Main / 1.4 psi DIFF.
QUESTION:
I want to know if the piping above the boiler should be reworked with a second Supply Riser out of the boiler?
I have a Single Pipe System with 8 old style radiators. The system was flushed, and a new main line vent and new radiator vents were installed. The pitch of the main line was checked, and a new digital Honeywell thermostat was installed and programmed to steam.
PROBLEM:
Every time the thermostat calls for heat the boiler has two (2) run times, it goes on for a few minutes and then turns off because the water in the Gauge Glass drops below the low water cut off point. The boiler stays off for a few minutes until the water level rises by way of the wet return or auto-feed. The boiler will then turn on again and stay on for as long as the thermostat calls for heat. During the first run time I can hear water being pushed through the main line with occasional knocking. The second run time is usually quiet.
CAUSE:
Is it possible that having only a single Supply Riser is creating the problem? Is the water being pushed to the single Supply Riser (opposite side away from Gauge Glass) creating an angled water level in the boiler which empties the Gauge Glass each time.
Also is the Pressuretrol setting of 3.0 psi Main / 1.4 psi DIFF to high?
Are they both the problem?

I would appreciate any advice.

Thanks,
George

SlamDunk

I would start with reducing main pressure setting to 2.0.

A second port out of the boiler would slow the speed of steam down preventing it from taking water up. But it is less expensive to first try reducing pressure. I would start there and look for improvement in water level.

I would also consider that after the flushing, residual chemical remains in the boiler requiring more flushing- or, skimming, because it is a new boiler you have to boile the manufacturing oil out.
My skimming took two days. I probably should have went for three.

nicholas bonham-carter

The single supply riser, and maybe its diameter may be part of the problem, as well as dirty oily water in the boiler. A fluctuating waterline such as you have subjects the boiler to unnecessary thermal stress

New England SteamWorks

Please send us pictures of your installation. Pay particular attention to the piping.

Jamie Hall

I'm going to go a tad farther out on a limb and say that yes, the single riser probably is a good part of both the problem with the boiler shutting down on low water and the occasional knocking which you hear -- neither of which should happen. I might also ask, is that single riser piped full size, or did someone bush it down? It should be full size all the way to the header -- which should be at least one size larger.

And your cutout pressure is too high. Drop it to not more than 2 psi for the cutout (a pound less for the cutin), and preferably less. You don't say whether your 3 psi is the cutout, and the differential subtractive, or whether it's additive. Most vents will survive 3 psi OK, but they won't like it, and won't last as long.

acwagner

I second posting pictures of your near boiler piping. It will help determine if it is contributing to the problem.

As others have said, If boiler is newly installed, it will need to be skimmed several times to remove oils and debris. These contaminants can case the water line to be unsteady and prime (slant) tripping the LWCO. I had to skim my new boiler over a dozen times before the waterline calmed down.

I have a Burnham IN5PV (power vented). The power vent assembly blocks one of the supply tapping so only one 2" supply is available, and it operates just great with a steady waterline. I did upsized the header to partially compensate for the single supply. Using the second tapping is optional for that sized boiler, according to the manufacturer.

Every situation is different, of course, but I would say skimming would be the first step.

acwagner

I guess @nicholas bonham-carter considered me off topic, so I'll clarify: I have the exact same boiler except it's the power vented version. I only use one of the two available 2" supply ports, and do not have problems with the LWCO being tripped by fluctuating water level--after skimming enough to remove all the oils and suspended solids left over form install. I would recommend looking at skimming first before redoing your near boiler piping, and possibly checking to make sure the boiler is fired correctly by clocking the gas meter.

The manufacturer considers use of the second tapping as optional for that sized boiler. Using both supply ports is the preferred and best practice, but in my experience you can get optimal performance using a single supply on that model/brand of boiler.

geoprell

Will post pictures soon, I am waiting for the contractor to return today. He said he will start by skimming. Will post results.
Appreciate all the advice.

Thanks,
George

nicholas bonham-carter

See how it’s done, and be prepared to take over when he runs out of time. Skimming properly may take many hours, and it will do what no chemical can.—NBC

JUGHNE

NBC's "off topic" could have been an accident touch.
I have done that and have learned if one reclicks it goes away.

Fred

@acwagner , I'm almost sure that @nicholas bonham-carter 's "Off Topic" on your post is just a fat finger accident (At least I hope it is) I have several of those from him as well but I just take it on the chin and move on.

acwagner

No big deal. Sometimes I write it up and it makes sense in my head, but doesn't get my point across. No harm is clarifying sometimes.

@geoprell skimming is a straight forward process that a homeowner can do. If you have questions, someone on this site can answer it (probably several existing threads on it also).

On my boiler, I had to skim every few days for about a week and a half right after install, because the waterline was absolutely crazy due to the oil/debris. I had lots of repiping done as part of the install too, so my experience is probably on the extreme end on number of skims required.

Fred

@acwagner , It's probably not an extreme on a Burnham boiler. I have a Burnham also and for whatever reason they seem to take a lot more skimming to get the oils out and the waterline to stabilize. Even the least little piping change, like a six inch nipple requires as much skimming as one would expect on a full new boiler install. Once you get the waterline stabilized, it's good though.

EBEBRATT-Ed

When someone posts about boiler piping most (but not all) posters can't tell how many risers, what size header etc without consulting the mfg. installation manual. I certainly don't even try to remember things that I know I can look up when I need to. My mind is cluttered as it is.

To me everyone likes drop headers, oversized headers and risers but the only criteria should be is it piped to the mfg instructions. Over and above if fine if someone wants to do that.
JMHO

nicholas bonham-carter

It certainly was a fat finger, and maybe with some advice, I can reverse it.
Actually, I have never paid any attention to those buttons, and don't see what benefit they bring.--NBC

Fred

@nicholas bonham-carter , just go back to the post that you tagged as 'Off Topic" and click on that button again. That will remove it.

Fred

BTW @geoprell no boiler should run when the sight glass is empty. The LWCO should shut the burner down regardless of the reason the water leaves the boiler. That is a critical safty device and the LWCO and its wiring needs to be double checked for a problem.

geoprell

PICTURES OF BOILER PIPING AND RESULTS OF SKIMMING

RESULTS:
Skimming made a BIG difference. The water level in the Gauge glass is always visible (middle of Gauge Glass), in fact it now only fluctuates (bounces) about a half (1/2) inch.
Also the Pressuretrol was lowered to 2 psi cutout (Main) / 1 psi cutin (DIFF subtractive).
The system is running quiet now (no knocking) and I do not hear water being pushed through the main line during the initial run time. I was told my system was SURGING and FLASHING.

WHAT THE CONTRACTOR DID:
SKIMMING:
The contractor first drained all the water out of the system after running the boiler for awhile. He filled the system again, then removed the top valve stem of the the Gauge Glass and attached a braided flex hose to the male threads of the valve. He turned on the boiler while adding additional water. He let the heated water sputter out of the hose for about ten (10) minutes, then he turned the boiler off and continued to add water and let it drain off through the flex hose for about another ten (10) minutes. He then replaced the valve stem.
PRESSURETROL:
He lowered the settings from 3 cutout / 1.5 cutin to 2 cutout / 1 cutin. He tried 1.5 cutout / .75 cutin for awhile, but the system would turn off before the thermostat temp. was reached, so he went back to 2 cutout / 1 cutin.

WHATS NEXT:
Should I continue to do skimming?
Is their a better way to skim?
Should I lower the Pressuretrol to 1.5 cut out / .75 cut in ?

( I read an old Post that said their is nothing wrong with the system cutting in and out while the thermostat is still calling for heat, it saves you money, but I did not experiment to see if the radiators would heat up completely with the 1.5 / .75 setting.)

Should my near piping be changed (picture files attached) , would two (2) risers make my boiler more efficient?
Does the short Header effect performance?

(My Riser, Header, and Main line are all the same size (2 inch). My main line is "L" shaped, with the corner of the "L" the high point. The short leg (6 feet) is pitched back to the boiler, the long leg is 25 feet with 6 branches for 8 radiators , and pitched to the wet return.)

Appreciate all the advice.

Thanks again
George

SlamDunk

In short, sounds like you have a good system in place.

gerry gill

why did he have to skim thru a sight glass tap instead of thru the skim tap? or did he not install a skim port..couldn't tell from right side picture.

j a_2

Draining and a cheap skim is a down and dirty way to quiet the beast down...but know this ,it will awaken again..so eventually the issue of no skim tap will have to be addressed...it’s not a dangerous issue so no worries there...I’d be more pissed off at the installer for being either lazy or stupid

SlamDunk

gerry gill said:

why did he have to skim thru a sight glass tap instead of thru the skim tap? or did he not install a skim port..couldn't tell from right side picture.

I didnt catch that, but it sounds like a great idea. A small port to draw out water slowly with valve control.

I would think a proper skim would need more than 20 minutes.

BobC

@j a Sir do you have any idea at all what it costs to provide a pipe nipple and a cap? And then there is the cost of installing same, a business could run aground on less cost.

Bob

gerry gill

Hysterical Bob.

Fred

BobC said:

@j a Sir do you have any idea at all what it costs to provide a pipe nipple and a cap? And then there is the cost of installing same, a business could run aground on less cost.

Bob

@BobC , I have to assume you are being sarcastic, right? Just checking

EBEBRATT-Ed

Every job is different. Some hardly need skimming. Some you have to skim and skim and skim

Just watch the gage glass about 1/2" fluctuation is ok

j a_2

BobC said:

@j a Sir do you have any idea at all what it costs to provide a pipe nipple and a cap? And then there is the cost of installing same, a business could run aground on less cost.

Bob

Oh crap I never thought about what it was costing me...I should ,have let the next nice fellow b e the one to install it...I could of had a better bottom line all those years...what pray tell was I thinking

nicholas bonham-carter

Usually skimming takes hours to drain off the oils from the surface of the boiler water. In the instructions for the boiler, there would be details of putting a dedicated pipe into a tapping into the boiler for this purpose. If it seems better now, that’s good, but it may need more skimming. The manufacturer specified piping for skimming makes the process more effective.
Ideally the boiler will run without cutting out on pressure until the thermostat has been satisfied, but your boiler may have been improperly sized too large, and therefore will cut out several times. Maximizing the main venting will cut down on the burn time needed to push the air out for each cycle.—NBC

Steve_210

Pics

SlamDunk

I removed the trv and used that port to skim. I like the sight glass idea.

New England SteamWorks

I think skimming is the big issue right now. The problem with those Burnham IN boilers is they come with the skim port tapping hydraulically plugged. 75% of guys see it plugged, shrug, and assume it should stay plugged. Another 20% figure it should come out and a skim port should be installed, but that would require removing the jacket, so the hell with that.

I've never installed an IN, and never will.

Also, the equalizer is under-sized. Dan is a big fan of over-sizing the equalizer for a rock-steady waterline, and I have always found that advice to be correct. Yours looks under-sized from the specs, which call for 1-1/2".

Lastly, I bet those wet returns are clogged. They always are after all these years, so the condensate is slow to return.

I'd demand that the contractor install the skim port. It's required in the manual, I am sure (though, as I say, I never installed an IN). And replace the equalized if it is not 1-1/2".

New England SteamWorks

geoprell said:

(My Riser, Header, and Main line are all the same size (2 inch). My main line is "L" shaped, with the corner of the "L" the high point. The short leg (6 feet) is pitched back to the boiler, the long leg is 25 feet with 6 branches for 8 radiators , and pitched to the wet return.)

Additionally, the highest point of your main should be right above the boiler. The installer should have piped the header such that the main pretty much touched the joist. That first short section of your L shaped main should pitch down and away from the boiler. Instead it pitches towards the boiler.

Sometimes identifying the main culprit can be challenging, but you've enough here that needs to be corrected to get to work on those. Then we can see where we are at. Likely as not, your problems will be solved.

geoprell

WHAT IS THE EFFECT OF PITCHING BACK TO BOILER
Yes, the short leg of the "L" shaped Main (in front of the boiler) pitches back to the boiler (in 6'-3" it pitches back 1 1/4"). The short "L" over the boiler pitches back to the header (in 2' it pitches back 3/4"). The long leg with the branches to the radiators pitches to the return (away from the boiler). The high point of the main is the corner of the "L". When you have a "L" shaped Main with limited height, can it be acceptable to pitch the short leg of the Main back to the boiler. If it is changed, I think the best that can be achieved would be to make it level, or at most a slight pitch away. What effect does this have on performance?

WHAT IS THE EFFECT OF THE EQUALIZER BEING 1 1/4
Yes, the equalizer is 1 1/4" (not the specified 1 1/2"). Its total length is 4' (2' vertical, 2' horizontal). What effect does this have on performance?

WET RETURN
The wet return was replaced, so their should be no problem with that piping.

The pitch back of the short leg of the Main and the 1 1/4" Equalizer are how my old oil-fired boiler system was installed. The contractor did not change it, he installed the new gas-fired boiler into the old piping. Before I ask him to change it, I want to understand its effects on performance.

Please explain, thank you.

Fred

You will likely have to skim more. A ten minute skim through that small gauge glass port won't be enough. He should have allowed the skim to continue for a couple hours at a minimum and at a very very slow rate through that small tapping. When the water in the glass starts to act up again, do a longer, slower skim. Your Boiler looks like it is probably piped to the manufacturers minimum requirements, except for the Skim port that should be added. There is a 1.25" tapping on the backside of the boiler for a skim port.. Using both tapping would have been nice and a drop header even better but it should work the way it is.

acwagner

I've had success removing the pressure relief valve and skimming through that.

@Fred is right that you'll probably need to skim a few more times. That was my experience as well. You've seen the symptoms, so when the boiler starts "acting up" again, you'll know it needs another skimming session.

There are many different approaches to skimming. I agree with Fred that 10 minutes is probably a little too short to get all the oils out, but it obviously made an improvement.

What kind of main venting do you have?

geoprell

EFFECT OF MAIN PITCHING BACK TO BOILER
Yes, the short leg of the "L" shaped Main (in front of boiler) is pitched back to boiler (pitch is 1 1/4" in 6'). The short "L" over the boiler pitches back to the Header (pitch is 3/4" in 2').
When you have a "L" shaped Main with limited height can it be acceptable to pitch the short leg of the Main (in front of the boiler) back to the boiler. If it is changed, I think the best that could be achieved would be to make it level, or at most a slight pitch away.
What is the effect on performance if not changed?

EFFECT OF UNDERSIZED EQUALIZER
Yes, the Equalizer is 1 1/4" (not the specified 1 1/2"). The Equalizer is 4' (2' vertical, 2' horizontal).
What is the effect on performance if not changed?

Before I ask the contractor to change anything, please help me understand how this will effect performance.

The pitch of the Main, and the 1 1/4" Equalizer were part of my oil-fired system that was removed.

WET RETURN
The wet return is new, so I do not see a problem with that.

SEE ATTACHED PHOTOS

Fred

It looks like there is enough headroom to pitch that horizontal pipe above the boiler enough to make it the high point, even if you have to elbow over to clear the copper pipe above it. . Is there a drip somewhere near the "L" so that all that condensate will drop to a wet return on both sides of the "L"? If not, seems like you will hold water one one side or the other.

geoprell

The Header has a 4% pitch toward the Equalizer. I think the best I could hope for is "level", when you consider the entire distance between the "L" (at the long leg) and the Header (above boiler).

SEE MY NEW DISCUSSION:
"ARE THEIR ANY OPTIONS ON THE LOCATION OF THE HIGH POINT IN A STEAM BOILER"