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Copper or Steel Pipe for a buried steam pipe
steamyheat
Member Posts: 2
in Gas Heating
I need to replace a long section of 3 inch steam pipe (probably steel or wrought iron, house is from 1929) below a slate sunroom floor. There may have been original insulation beneath the slate and concrete, but now the pipe is sitting on dirt. What are your thoughts on replacing with copper pipe versus steel? Problem becomes having the equipment to thread steel. Copper is an easier material to work with but concerned about the soldered connections with steam heat.
Has anyone used copper in this application?
Any advice would be much appreciated!
Has anyone used copper in this application?
Any advice would be much appreciated!
0
Comments
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Is it a return line or supply?0
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3" is unlikely to be condensate.
I would stay with steel threaded. Mega press is rated for steam but is limited to 2" as far as I know. Pro press is rated for low pressure steam but it wouldn't be my choice unless their is no other alternative. Solder connections don't hold up on steam supply. Maybe brazing would0 -
If you should have to use copper for some reason -- which I don't recommend at all -- you absolutely have to provide for expansion. I can think of several ways to do it, but they are all going to involve some interesting combination of flanged or union fittings at at least one end. You must not put any repetitive torque on a soldered fitting, and it's best not to put any repetitive tension on one, either.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
Supply pipe in dirt rotted away in less than a century? Need a drained conduit?0
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Regardless of the pipe material chosen, you might want to look into using an insulating product specifically designed and offered for use with underground piping.
Typically, these products are pour-in-place powered Calcium Carbonate, and are offered as protection against both heat loss and corrosion.
Two brand names of these products come to mind; GILSULATE, and DRITHERM.
Hope this is helpful.Dennis Pataki. Former Service Manager and Heating Pump Product Manager for Nash Engineering Company. Phone: 1-888 853 9963
Website: www.nashjenningspumps.com
The first step in solving any problem is TO IDENTIFY THE PROBLEM.0 -
Yes it's useful. But the work to trench & bury costs so much more than a conduit ,I can't understand why folks don't bother for the next poor devil who has to replace.Pumpguy said:Regardless of the pipe material chosen, you might want to look into using an insulating product specifically designed and offered for use with underground piping.
Typically, these products are pour-in-place powered Calcium Carbonate, and are offered as protection against both heat loss and corrosion.
Two brand names of these products come to mind; GILSULATE, and DRITHERM.
Hope this is helpful.0 -
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Thank you for all of your comments - they are helpful.0
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I do not understand, you use schedule 40 steel pipe, but insist on cast iron fittings ,huh. The reason your pipe lasted so long, is the dead men used high quality mallulable carbon impregnated pipe. The iron content was high. If you are worrying about threading on site do not do it. Victalic is making connectors for two hundred pound saturated steam. Weld what you need groove one end and attach it, and for heavens sake use at least schedule 80 or if you can afford it low quality stainless 304 works nicely and will not brake the budget. All the best Jack0
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