Can I/should I change my header

Stangob

Hello all. I have a Burnham IN5 with 360edr connected load. I have been replacing a few copper sections of main and replacing a riser. So I was thinking since I had the tools out; should I add the second riser out of the boiler. Would it make a difference. My idea was to add a union before the take off and try and make a drop header if possible. Or should I just leave it be? The current pipe size is 2 inches. Attached is my current set up. Thank you all.

nicholas bonham-carter

Have a look at the Burnham installation instructions, and check for the pipe sizing of the IN5. 2 heads are always better than one, but the riser plug may require an act of God to remove it.How is your pressure?—NBC

Ironman

I'd change it if it were mine. With black iron, no copper.

Stangob

I have 2 inch coming out of the boiler now. I believe that's the taping size from Burnham. I usually see 1.5 oz of pressure. I was able to get the plug open this morning just in case... I agree no copper. That's what started me thinking about this because I was removing copper from the system.
Attached is a picture of what I was thinking. Not sure if it's right or not. But that's why I'm here lol. Any suggestions would be gratefully appreciated.

Ironman

Looks good.

Fred

That'll work if you can get it done!

AnthraciteEnergetics

360 sq ft - should be fine. That's around 30 feet/sec steam velocity in your 2 inch pipe which is reasonable (fairly low actually). But if you have it all taken apart and have the time, do it. Insulate the header when all work is done.

New England SteamWorks

That's the problem with re-pipes. Looks easy. In reality, not so much.

If you want to utilize the second boiler tapping you will collide with the supply tees. So, you would have to move the boiler to the right. Which also means you have to move the flue and the electric. And the gas. And the returns. And if you are willing to do all that, then you should utilize 30" risers into a 3" dropped header.

I get these calls every week. No one understands when I tell them what it costs to do the work. It's pretty much a whole new boiler install less the boiler.

You always wish they came here first. But mostly they come here after the botched install, looking for answers.

No easy ones after that.

Stangob

So are you saying New England Steamworks that it dosent make sense to bring the second tapping up and then over with a six inch or so piece behind the supply tees and then drop down next to the first elbow?
Your right I do wish I had found this site first. I was admittedly ignorant about steam heat. I was under the impression that when you call professional and licenseed people that they would do the job right. I certainly dont expect people to come to my job and know what to do. That's why I'm there. I would like to thank all who contribute to the site because I sure do learn a lot from them and greatly appreciate it

Leon82

He may not have seen your diagram where you don't need to relocate the boiler. and you broke the plug free which was probably the biggest concern.

I would make a mock up with the neew fittings before you commit and start turning wrenches to make sure it will fit as intended

newagedawn

even if you cant get the other plug out , still do the drop header with one riser!!!!!!!

New England SteamWorks

Stangob said:

So are you saying New England Steamworks that it dosent make sense to bring the second tapping up and then over with a six inch or so piece behind the supply tees and then drop down next to the first elbow?

My bad. You're right. I didn't think about offsetting the 2nd riser. That might work and you wouldn't have to move the boiler. Still a bit of work though. Below is a picture of someone who re-piped a boiler and did exactly that. I'm guessing it was @Dave0176, looks like his fine work.

Ironman

If you look at his second pic, you'll see the header is offset from the tapping. It looks doable, but as Leon said, lay it out before starting. The riser may need 3 Ells instead of 2, but that's permissible.

R Dougan

Did mine over the summer, IN5 with 290 EDR attached. Also re-piped the entire system (kept cracking my melon on the pipes). Did the refit myself, ...been scouring this website for ten years and memorizing LAOSH for fifteen. Labor of love. System used to bang and clang, now makes no noise except steam singing through the pipes. Four Big Mouths and ball valves on all the drip dirt pockets, (its a Navy thing-we love valves) . Been wasting the condensate, hope all the gunk doesn't take too long to work out of the system. Waiting on a good cold snap to put her to work. Well worth the effort. Good luck.

Fred

@R Dougan It looks terrific! Goes to show that Homeowners can GET THE JOB DONE!!!

R Dougan

Thx Fred

EBEBRATT-Ed

@Stangob ,

Getting that plug out was the hard part. The rest is pretty easy. Cut out the nipple between the 90 on the riser and the first tee. After you remove both pieces lay them on the floor and get an end-end measurement.

Get a 2"tee and a 2" union and 3 nipples sized to give you the same end-end measurement and install that. Then you can pipe from your new tee into the new boiler tapping with 2 90s, 1 union and a few nipples.

You can keep the header the way it is and come out of the tee flat, or face the tee up and drop the new riser into it or make a drop header for both risers. Makes no difference.

Personally I don't like the way drop headers look but to each his own.

Most important thing is the right configuration and the correct # of risers and header of the correct size

Dave0176

New England SteamWorks said:

Stangob said:

So are you saying New England Steamworks that it dosent make sense to bring the second tapping up and then over with a six inch or so piece behind the supply tees and then drop down next to the first elbow?

My bad. You're right. I didn't think about offsetting the 2nd riser. That might work and you wouldn't have to move the boiler. Still a bit of work though. Below is a picture of someone who re-piped a boiler and did exactly that. I'm guessing it was @Dave0176, looks like his fine work.

Don’t recall that one @New England SteamWorks actually looks like @JStar s work with the Anvil fittings my supply house carries Ward fittings. And yes I learned from Joe.

Stangob

EBEBRATT-Ed
If I had seen your advice sooner I probably would have been finished sooner. But I gave it a try and this was the results. Hopefully it's ok. Thanks everyone for all the help and advice. I will try and clean up the joints when I give the boiler a skim.

BobC

Looks fine to me.

Bob

Ironman

Me too. It should perform much better.

New England SteamWorks

I think you did just fine!

EzzyT

Gentlemen This Boiler was repiped by me. Located in Neptune NJ.

Fred

Great, as always, @EzzyT

New England SteamWorks

Sorry @EzzyT for incorrect attribution! But it was such a nice job, I saved it for future reference!

EzzyT

No big deal @New England SteamWorks, that Boiler looked really bad on both outside and inside before I touched it. Once it was cleaned up and piped properly we were able to get the house heated up within half hour

neilc

@Stangob
a fitter is born , , ,