Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Relocating copper radiant slab floor heating pipe
Midwestspecial
Member Posts: 1
Hello all, I have a in slab floor radiant heating system. Copper piped inbedded into the concrete. House was built in 1952; no basement. New boiler installed 4 years ago. We currently have a contractor gutting and remodeling a bathroom. years ago one of the bathrooms had a stand up shower; which was at one point turned into a closet. We are turning it back into the shower and having to relocated the drain about 5 or 6 inches in one direction. Long story short we need to cut a small section of the copper piping out and move it over. The contractor wants to basically put a couple 90 degree bends in the pipe to make room for the shower drain.
Is this an OK practice? I don't know how high pressure the water is going through the line but it seems that adding that kink in the link will disrupt the flow of water. The attached picture shows the existing pipe and the orange line represents the proposed bend. Thank you!
Is this an OK practice? I don't know how high pressure the water is going through the line but it seems that adding that kink in the link will disrupt the flow of water. The attached picture shows the existing pipe and the orange line represents the proposed bend. Thank you!
0
Comments
-
Kinking it is not acceptable; properly bending it is. However, given the age of it, and the fact that concrete has a deleterious effect on copper, I would not recommend bending it.
They make copper saddles in 1/2" & 3/4" which most supply houses can get over night if they don't have them on the self. That's what I'd recommend.
It looks like it's already been damaged in a couple of places.Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.1 -
If you are talking about 90 degree elbows soldered into that pipe -- four of them all told -- you may be alright. The extra head loss will reduce the flow some, but probably not enough to make much difference. If you are talking about trying to bend the pipe itself, just don't even try. It will either kink (and shut off the flow) if you are lucky, or break -- and not necessarily where it is visibly exposed.
As Bob ( @Ironman ) said, that pipe looks like the concrete has already attacked it somewhat, so be really really gentle with it.
Frankly, if it were mine, I'd move the drain...Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
Why relocate the drain? Are you using a pre-fab shower base? If you use a field-fab one, the drain can be located any where in the base.
To be honest, I would NOT let a remodeler or everyday plumber touch that radiant system. Get a hydronic/radiant contractor.Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.2 -
Clean the concrete from around it, cut the section out and if it is soft type copper use an expander tool to make a fitting on each end.
Then use copper ells and copper tube or a short piece of pex tube to build a loop around.Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
I wouldn't touch it, leave it as is. If you try and splice it you will probably end up going back into it and now the shower will be in the way.0
-
Ed,EBEBRATT-Ed said:I wouldn't touch it, leave it as is. If you try and splice it you will probably end up going back into it and now the shower will be in the way.
I think that they're gonna have to do something: it looks like the contractor already punctured the pipe.
Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.0 -
IDK why the contractor broke up the floor without first determing where the pipes were. An infrared camera with warm water in the tubing, or even an IR thermometer, would have located the tubing.Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.0 -
That pipe is 65 years old - RETIRE IT. Copper pipe in cement was never a good idea, it's only a matter of time before it starts leaking.
You can replace it all now or you can replace it all later but it is all going to need replacing and it will happen at the worst possible time if you wait.
BobSmith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge0 -
@BobC I disagree it depends on the concrete, and soils. I just sold my home which was built in 52 copper was fine in the basement slab, and apartment structure which was slab radiant. Don't throw the baby out with the bath water.
I'm perplexed. There was a shower, then there wasn't. Now you want one what happens to the old drain?
If copper tube is damaged splice in soft copper with genial bends around the new drain.
Mix up a new concrete patch using straight Portland, sand, and aggregate. Fly ash will eat copper.0 -
I agree it does depend on the mix used and the soil it's all laid on but in the northeast it's usually a matter of when they fail not if.
BobSmith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge0 -
If you like the floor heat, take the time to make the repair and adjustment.
But have a plan B in mind for when the tube does start to fail, no material lasts forever.
65 years is a good service life for copper in concrete, most would agree.Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.3K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 53 Biomass
- 422 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 90 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.4K Gas Heating
- 100 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.4K Oil Heating
- 63 Pipe Deterioration
- 916 Plumbing
- 6K Radiant Heating
- 381 Solar
- 14.9K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 54 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements