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Honeywell panel info

dobro23
dobro23 Member Posts: 71
in THE MAIN WALL
nothing to do with steam ( I don't think) but came across this panel today, which from what i can tell, is being used to control the fan or a single zone air handler. the original schematic is intact as well as a "simplified" schematic that an assumed previous technician drew up to take away the mystery. unfortunately, that didn't work for me. I wasn't able to find anything on the internet and wasn't able to talk to honeywell before they closed today. I assume this is merely just a zone panel from the 1950's? It has fuses, transformers, relays, contactors, and TUBES!!! anyone ever see one of these things and an idea how to wire it? and just what exactly is it? I would love an I/O manual or a legible schematic and anything else that may help. I know " if it works leave it alone" but really i just want to rip it out and replace it with an SR501. that's all it needs!





Comments

  • Solid_Fuel_Man
    Solid_Fuel_Man Member Posts: 2,644
    Looks like a heat/cool panel which operates on 208volts 3 phase for an airhandeler. Also calls the circulator in the event of a heat call. And cooling contactor during a call for cooling. Also looks like there are modulating dampers in the ductwork as noted by the 208v primaries for the 24v secondaries.

    Much more than an SR501!
    Serving Northern Maine HVAC & Controls. I burn wood, it smells good!
    Ironman
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,570
    It contains a 3 phase motor starter. IDK of anything that would directly replace it - certainly not an SR501.

    You better contact Honeywell.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • dobro23
    dobro23 Member Posts: 71
    thanks for the info guys. as far as i can tell, NONE of those features are being used and the blower motor in the air handler is single phase 115/220. im pretty sure it's just a switching relay at this point. calling honeywell today about it.
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,570
    An SR501 is not capable of carrying the amperage of a blower motor: it's designed for a small wet rotor circulator. You would need the Taco HAFC101 or 201 to control an AHU. If the blower amp draw exceeds the controls amp rating, then add a contactor between it and the control.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
    Bob Bona_4
  • Bob Bona_4
    Bob Bona_4 Member Posts: 2,083
    The HAFC201 control is nice. I use a tekmar 150 setpoint when doing hydroair for freeze protection.
  • dobro23
    dobro23 Member Posts: 71
    UPDATE: Honeywell has no information at all about this control! They didn't even know they made it. Hoping someone sees this and has a binder full of old manuals in their cellar! Also, the control is still working for everything that it needs to do but sooner or later it won't and I'm just being proactive trying to get supporting documents. Yesterday I had to make some wiring changes. A five minute project took 2 hours trying to figure out what was what. That's what prompted this whole discussion. Still searching...
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,606
    It's not that hard to figure out. It's an interesting set up. There feeding the thermostat backwards powering y and w and R starts things up. And g on the thermostat looks like it doing everything else.

    The tech that drew up that drawing did you a big favor. I don't think your going to be able to buy anything resembling a direct replacement.

    Gut just the panel buy some new relays etc. and other components and wire it back up with new stuff or gut everything, controls, damper actuators etc and start from scratch.

    Either way you have to design how you want the system to work before you start, that's if you want to change the way it operates.
    Solid_Fuel_Man
  • ratio
    ratio Member Posts: 3,805
    Wow, what a find. If it's truly only operating as a start/stop control, you should be able to replace it with a small-to-middling contactor, maybe with aux contacts. It's even possible to duplicate modulating control, but at that point it might be easier to sub it out.
    I'd try real hard to salvage that panel whole. Tubes!

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