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Steam radiator cracked

jumbee
jumbee Member Posts: 25
edited February 2017 in Strictly Steam
So here's the history. Radiator has a crack that I used JB Weld about 6 years ago to repair. Repair was successful until a week ago. The crack reappeared so I used JB Weld SteelStick and this hasn't worked. This is a pic of the rad showing the old JB Weld and then the new application. If further repair isn't possible can this section be removed and if so where can I get it done. I'm trying to avoid changing this beautiful rad.
Advice is needed. Thanks

Comments

  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,254
    What pressure does your boiler run at? what PSI?
  • jumbee
    jumbee Member Posts: 25
    Cut out is 1.5 psi
    JUGHNE
  • Neild5
    Neild5 Member Posts: 171
    You should be able to repair it, however you will have to clean the radiator down to bare cast iron removing all of the old patch, wipe clean with acetone and reapply.
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    That is a beautiful radiator. We can't see how the sections are tied together but it looks like there is a rod that goes through the top and bottom of the radiator which is a good indication that the sections can be pulled apart. The question is, since that is an end section, how best to close the top opening and install a bushing in the bottom of the next section to accommodate the valve spud. That section would have to be threaded. While difficult, cast iron can be welded, if you find a good welder with experience doing that. Another attempt with JB Weld is the next best option
  • jumbee
    jumbee Member Posts: 25
    A threaded rod does go through the top and the bottom. Maybe the end section can be removed somehow plugged. Then the other end can be tapped for the valve spud. Since this is an extremely large rad (19 sections) moving and manipulating it will be a pain. So I'll try the easier option with the JB Weld and if that doesn't work I'll go to plan B or C
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,511
    Cast iron can be brazed, but extreme care has to be used in pre- heating and cooling before and after. The same goes for welding. Find a welder that knows how if the JB doesn't work.

    Considering the location of the crack, I would want to know what possibly caused it to begin with.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,523
    As has been said. First thing to try is to get all the old J.B. Weld off, and clean the area thoroughly. You are trying to get down to bright metal, then clean that with acetone to get all the possible grease or oil off. Then try the Weld again. Should work.
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,254
    That section has the feet on it? I have seen a brick under a footless CI rad, but takes something away from the ascetics.
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    Ironman said:

    Cast iron can be brazed, but extreme care has to be used in pre- heating and cooling before and after. The same goes for welding. Find a welder that knows how if the JB doesn't work.

    Considering the location of the crack, I would want to know what possibly caused it to begin with.

    It almost looks like it could be a stress crack eminating from that rod that passes through all the sections to hold them together. Maybe it was tightened too much and then when the rad heated and expanded it gave at its weak point??
    Ironman
  • jumbee
    jumbee Member Posts: 25
    Fred said:



    It almost looks like it could be a stress crack eminating from that rod that passes through all the sections to hold them together. Maybe it was tightened too much and then when the rad heated and expanded it gave at its weak point??

    I was wondering about that