Flue Damper
Comments
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Usually wind. If the draft was set properly, it's ok.
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its never done like this before.0
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it is not steady. it keeps pushing open and closing again.0
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Are you located on the east coast?paulmars said:it is not steady. it keeps pushing open and closing again.
It was extremely windy last night and mine was moving as well. It's normal during these conditions.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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mine indoors and its been doing this for a few weeks now.0
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The flue damper -- I'm assuming you are referring to a barometric -- is designed to regulate the draught in the chimney. The draught in the chimney is changing constantly, and therefore the damper has to keep moving. I'd be more worried if it didn't.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
When there is a lot of wind pulling air up the chimney a flue damper installed like this opens so you don't draw excess air thru boiler cooling it down.
https://www.nachi.org/forum/attachments/f20/10674d1176218453-damper-ductwork-dsc00616.jpg
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Interesting pic Leonard. I wonder if the installation of your electrical panel, specifically clearances, is up to code? Maybe a licensed electrician like @Ironman could chime in.
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four images: "http://imgur.com/a/HbmEw"0
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that is exact same model, same trim, same options as my flapper. Why no weight to make adjustments?Leonard said:When there is a lot of wind pulling air up the chimney a flue damper installed like this opens so you don't draw excess air thru boiler cooling it down.
https://www.nachi.org/forum/attachments/f20/10674d1176218453-damper-ductwork-dsc00616.jpg
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Here's my barometric during a windy day.
It wasn't even that cold out, some time in November but there's some movement as the wind gusts.
https://youtu.be/YhfkCDaJWAc
Something to keep in mind, mine is a 7" damper on a 6" pipe so it may not open as much or as fast as yours. It's essentially oversized for the pipe it's on.
Around 5 seconds in it has a decent burst, but if it was 20 degrees colder out that would've been much. much greater.
This damper may also differ from yours as it's on a gas boiler so it can swing outward as well.Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Yeah you're missing the weight. You'll need to get the weight (look around on the floor, under the boiler and in the pipe), and you should have the tech do a complete combustion test-run unit for 10+minutes, set draft, adjust for true zero smoke.
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Agreed.STEVEusaPA said:Yeah you're missing the weight. You'll need to get the weight (look around on the floor, under the boiler and in the pipe), and you should have the tech do a complete combustion test-run unit for 10+minutes, set draft, adjust for true zero smoke.
Even once he finds the weight the proper draft needs to be set and the burner should be setup using a combustion analyzer.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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I got a nozzle, electrodes, adj gauge, pump strainer, gasket, and something else ordered. After I replace/adj. I will call a pro to set it up running properly (co, backdraft, etc). However, i do wonder how they set these up before they had all these hi tech gauges.
No missing parts i see anywhere. So, I should order a new flapper before the service tech comes.0 -
is this one missing the weight like mine?Leonard said:When there is a lot of wind pulling air up the chimney a flue damper installed like this opens so you don't draw excess air thru boiler cooling it down.
https://www.nachi.org/forum/attachments/f20/10674d1176218453-damper-ductwork-dsc00616.jpg
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> @paulmars said:
> I got a nozzle, electrodes, adj gauge, pump strainer, gasket, and something else ordered. After I replace/adj. I will call a pro to set it up running properly (co, backdraft, etc). However, i do wonder how they set these up before they had all these hi tech gauges.
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> No missing parts i see anywhere. So, I should order a new flapper before the service tech comes.
They set them up but not near as good. I can do OK by eye but you'll most certainly save fuel having it done with a combustion analyzer.Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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i might just buy one. does one gauge do it all, incl the backdraft?
BTW I found the weight in the flue, all sooty. No bolt though. how does this work with the weight mounted on the inside of door?0 -
A good combustion analyzer goes for about $2k and needs to be calibrated yearly. Some do draft some do not
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Not my house, just randomly pic from web. What I don't like is to run exhaust thru wall appears they made the hole too close to underside of a major load carrying beam. They structurally weakened the cement wall, might eventually crack.
Just looked at pic again , yes the ~3 ft work space requirement in front of electrical panel looks like it's being violated.
Looks like ChrisJ 's damper is not moving much. I'm on a hill , in March wild windy days mine opens more than that.0 -
I have to fly across the bay to one of the villages to work on the cannery boiler and my Testo is still in for repairs. I had to dig out my old wet kit shaker bottle for this job. Haven't had to use it in a long time. My test on it at home says it is still ok though. I also found my old Bacharach draft gauge, but won't be needing it as I have another digital one. Never get rid of the old stuff! Sure sent back memories finding this stuff.
Rick0 -
An electric panel must have a clear working space that's at least 30" wide X 36" deep, measured outward from the face of the panel.STEVEusaPA said:Interesting pic Leonard. I wonder if the installation of your electrical panel, specifically clearances, is up to code? Maybe a licensed electrician like @Ironman could chime in.
Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.0 -
Thanks for the info Bob.
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Probably fixed by now but you mentioned oil parts and the draft regulator on the smoke pipe is for gas. The damper should NOT swing out on an oil system. And I see a spill switch, wired to what? Looks all new. You need a regulator for oil, get rid of the spill switch and have a combustion analysis and daft done by a qualified tech. He also won't be too happy you bought parts yourself, nozzle etc. If they're wrong is he supposed to wait for you to run out and get what he needs. What you are doing is not a hobby. Good luck.0
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Woops. Never mind. Just realized that video was Chris J.
Still recommend a qualified tech.0 -
looking for a way to adj damper w/o purchased gauge. maybe here https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/barometric-damper.32086/
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Buy or build a manometer.
Water manometers are incredibly accurate when constructed properly.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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