Utica Boiler Repipe Suggestions

roc_rktec

I have received a lot of good info from several pros here on the wall about how to approach correcting my near-boiler piping and tuning my system. Thanks to @todd_ecr I was able to find two qualified steam contractors to take a look at my setup and get pricing for a repipe and a full boiler replacement.

Both contractors suggested something not mentioned by the pros here on the wall. They both recommended connecting the new risers directly into the old header which would give me nearly 39" of vertical, instead of creating a new lower header that would then feed into the existing one above as discussed on the wall previously in this discussion. They would bush down the existing 3" header tapping to accept the 2" risers from the boiler. For the hartford loop one recommended re-configuring the base of the existing equalizer, where as the other said they would fab a new hartford loop that would tie into the existing tapping at the base of the old equalizer.

Do these seem like well considered suggestions, or am I still dealing with knuckleheads?

See the below photos of my system for a refresher. It was installed in 1991 and is very over-sized (rated for 472 sf, when my system radiation is only 297 sf).

roc_rktec

Here is the diagram of the suggested boiler repipe from my previous wall discussion:

KC_Jones

1. Headers shouldn't be fed from the bottom.
2. You basically have what they are saying just in smaller pipe.
3. One could argue all that piping needs to be taken apart so the system takeoffs from your new header are separated.
4. Even if that existing header was fed from the top it still isn't correct. The header should have this order from start to end, boiler riser, boiler riser, system takeoff(s) then drop to the equalizer. It must be in that specific order. You have system takeoff on one end and the equalizer on the other with the feed in between. That isn't correct.

Your diagram is the way to go.

New England SteamWorks

@KC_Jones is correct, the diagram is the way to go. Working with black pipe larger than 2" is not something a lot of guys want to do, or are set up to do. And dismantling the original header (which should be done) is also something a lot of guys just don't want to do. Just guessing, but I would say your proposed project exceeded the comfort zones of the two guys who came out.

Ironman

Ah, the high cost of knuckleheads! But they start out as the low bidder!

You better follow the diagram that you posted above or else you'll be paying a steam pro to fix what these last two are suggesting.

Really, with that boiler being 25 years old, and over-sized that much, I'd recommend replacing it too.

Dave0176

If I were doing this job, a lot of old piping would be removed and proper piping installed. But as was said also, this boiler is 25 years old and oversized, don't put good money into bad, find a real steam pro on this site, and replace the boiler with the proper sized unit. Utica would never be my choice for a steam boiler as I do not like side outlet boilers. Unless the proper piping is installed and even then it's questionable they do not produce GOOD dry steam.

roc_rktec

Unfortunately both of these contractors were the only "pros" that we were able to track down in Rochester, NY with help from @todd_ecr
Do you think it would be possible for me to provide a piping diagram to one of them and have them follow it? If I were to attempt to assemble the pipe myself, what tools should I be investing in?

If I go the route of replacing the boiler, would a Weil-McLain EG-40 or a Peerless 63-03 be a good choice for my 297 sf system?

roc_rktec

If I was to really go whole hog, should I break apart the old header and have each main separately take off from a new correctly sequenced header.

Keep in mind my system is rather small with only one of the three "mains" servicing more than 2 radiators.

Fred

If you're going to tear it apart, even to replace the copper and feed the boiler risers into the header, from the sides, like it should be, you might as well do all the near boiler piping correctly and be done with it. Done properly, it is an incremental investment when you do decide/need to replace the boiler. JMHO