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SUPER PRO Solderless Bonding
Has anyone used SUPER PRO solderless bonding?
Literature says good for solderless bonding of copper, brass, and aluminum.
To me, looks for all the world like Loctite 222 low strength grade. Same bottle, same purple color.
I've read where some have tried it on refrigeration copper tubing with mixed success. I don't do refrigeration work, but might be temped to try it on maybe a gravity copper drain line or something similar.
Literature says good for solderless bonding of copper, brass, and aluminum.
To me, looks for all the world like Loctite 222 low strength grade. Same bottle, same purple color.
I've read where some have tried it on refrigeration copper tubing with mixed success. I don't do refrigeration work, but might be temped to try it on maybe a gravity copper drain line or something similar.
Dennis Pataki. Former Service Manager and Heating Pump Product Manager for Nash Engineering Company. Phone: 1-888 853 9963
Website: www.nashjenningspumps.com
The first step in solving any problem is TO IDENTIFY THE PROBLEM.
Website: www.nashjenningspumps.com
The first step in solving any problem is TO IDENTIFY THE PROBLEM.
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Comments
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Have not tried it, would have to have absolutely no other alternative to try it.
Call me old fashioned I guess, soldering is tried and true, press is tired and (so far) true, properly sized no-hubs on Cu waste lines work just fine for me.
Can't imagine trying to explain this to an inspector.
I cannot imagine trusting it on anything as high pressure as a refrigeration line.0 -
Literature says it's good for 1500 PSI when properly applied. Literature also says min .005" gap is needed for proper bond. Less gap wipes bonding material out from joint resulting in a poor bond.Dennis Pataki. Former Service Manager and Heating Pump Product Manager for Nash Engineering Company. Phone: 1-888 853 9963
Website: www.nashjenningspumps.com
The first step in solving any problem is TO IDENTIFY THE PROBLEM.0 -
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Re-read the literature. Says holds 1200 PSI of refrigerant pressure, fully cured; 850 PSI 12 minutes after bonding, 20 minutes for aluminum.
As far as clearance goes, they recommend wrapping a paper post-it note (.003" thick) around the tube as a feeler gauge. They go on to say .020" is maximum clearance.
I hope this is the same as Loctite 222. I use lots of Loctite products and sometimes need 222 grade but don't have any labeled as such.Dennis Pataki. Former Service Manager and Heating Pump Product Manager for Nash Engineering Company. Phone: 1-888 853 9963
Website: www.nashjenningspumps.com
The first step in solving any problem is TO IDENTIFY THE PROBLEM.0 -
"...backed by a $2 mil liability policy..." so you know you can trust it!
I can imagine the court case "...sir did you wrap a post-it around every joint and check it as a feeler gauge...how did you check and ensure the pipe and the fittings were perfectly round?..."
Would be great if it did work reliably.There was an error rendering this rich post.
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That's why I posed the question at the start of this thread. Has anyone actually used this product? And what were the results?Dennis Pataki. Former Service Manager and Heating Pump Product Manager for Nash Engineering Company. Phone: 1-888 853 9963
Website: www.nashjenningspumps.com
The first step in solving any problem is TO IDENTIFY THE PROBLEM.0 -
I'm planning on trying it out to repair the AC in my pickup once I get enough free time saved up. Looks like next spring though.0
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Try some on the bench. See how strong it is tomorrow.0
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I saw this stuff in the hardware store the other day. I would be very sceptical of the lifespan of the joint. I know adhesive has come along way over the years but I don't on this one.0
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