refinishing steam radiators and weight

Koan

Hi all
I have about 13 radiators that we are going to have stripped (dipped) and painted. One is a massive 30 section unit 74 & 1/2" long, 9" deep ( 5 columns?), 26" tall Pierce, Butler and Pierce two pipe steam radiator. I have to try to determine the weight as the refinisher thinks his crane at the dip tank is 1/2 ton.
Q1) My current estimate seems just shy of 1000 lbs. Does anyone have a chart per section ??
Q2) does anyone have any suugestings on moving this beast (besides don't do it)
Q3) has anyone clear coated bare metal ?
I am figuring on white, off white, of clear coat on bare metal - I recall reading somewhere that gold or silver are less effective for heat transfer.
Q4) Is that true - is there any data on clear coating metal for heat transfer?

Thank you very much!
Kelly

hot_rod

Is the radiator still inside the building? Any stairs involved?

Once outside web slings and equipment are the way to go, most tow trucks can move a load like that and get into small spaces. Back hoe, skid steers, etc.

Or professional equipment movers, lots of hands.

I like the idea of a clear coat IF you can get it stripped down to nice metal everywhere. I have used clear lacquer spray on some bare metal projects before. Sometimes letting them "weather" inside for a week or so gives it a more interesting look. It really depends on your preference.

I've heard that green is one of the better colors for heat emitters, I wonder if there is a huge difference in color, and radiation if the radiator is adequately sized to the load?

Jamie Hall

As Bob noted, clear coat would look really nice -- if you could really get it down to bare metal. As to colour and heat emission, though, pretty much and satin colour will be about the same, except gold or silver. Clear coat will be intermediate between a satin colour and gold or silver paint.

A note on moving that monster -- or any radiator. Use enough slings or a strongback and multiple slings from the strong back to the crane or whatever to reduce the bending stress on the radiator to a minimum. On that six foot puppy, I'd want to see four slings on equalizers.

Koan

@ hot rod - Fortunately it is on the first floor, yes still inside the building, and only two stairs on the front porch. I am assuming dipping will take it to bare metal. If it is too heavy, then we may have it sand blasted. Thanks for the hint not to stress the spine at the top! I found some info but not on weight - I'll try to post it.
@ Jamie Hall - I think I envision two long upside down U pipe structures attached to furniture dollies held together lengthwise.

Koan

at 8lbs per EDR x 105 sq ft (see attached word doc) = 840 lbs?

hot_rod

I'm not sure about dipping, it may depend on what paint was used over the years. I know sandblasting will handle any coating that may have been put on it. The sand blasting gets down into the course pores of the iron, it should look brand new after a good "blast"

I've always painted radiators that I have refinished. Powder coating ovens run up over 400° that makes me nervous for any rubber section seals or just the large expansion potential.

Hap_Hazzard

Moving: Cut a piece of wood to fit over each end, cut holes for the plugs and fittings and secure them with hold-down straps. This allows you to stand the radiator on either end without the plugs digging into the flooring and also provides a bumper in case you bump into walls or furniture. Lay the radiator flat on a moving blanket, wrap it, stand it up on one end and secure it to a hand truck. (Make sure the tires are pumped up.) Hope your doors are wider than 26".
Stripping: If you get down to bare metal, it's going to start rusting right now. Be ready to paint immediately. If you're sandblasting, try to get as much loose paint & rust as possible off before you start blasting so you can reuse the blast medium. There's an air tool called a needle scaler that works great for chipping paint off cast iron. I'm not an expert on the different blast media that are available, but I do know that sand is about the worst. If you use sand, wear a respirator and don't allow anyone to breathe the fine dust that hangs in the air for hours and permeates everything. Silicosis is just a horrible, slow way to die. This dust also clings to whatever you're blasting, so it has to be cleaned off before you paint.
Finishing: Powder coating is awesome if you can afford it, but you're going to need a big oven! The next best thing I know of is a paint specially made for high temperature. I've used Rust Oleum High Heat paint and been very pleased with the results. They do make a clear coat that's good for 2,000° F, but it isn't glossy. It gives more of a frosted look than a wet look. Don't use anything that isn't intended for 300° surfaces and can expand and contract as frequently as your boiler cycles.

Tinman

I find that a lever truck is the most useful tool in moving anything over 300# on a flat surface. I could never go without having one.

As far as getting rads down stairs - we lay them on their sides and let them slide down on 2 X 8's with 1 or 2 guys holding it back with a rope.

I have a local guy that does our sandblasting. I wouldn't do the dipping either.

Paul48

After man-handling those radiators, I'd probably pressure test them before I refinished them. No metallic paints, unless you are using the reduced heat to your advantage.

Koan

@Hap_Hazzard Great advice on the board with two holes! Really saved me! Glued and screwed 3 3/4 inch pine boards together and used a 3" holesaw. One hole goes all the way through at a 2" diameter to hold the bushing for the steam trap and the other goes through only 2 layers at the 3" diameter. Was able to get everything down stairs on a hand truck using the board and cinching the radiator to the hand truck

Fred

I have had to move/remove several heavy items like this in the past. The most recent being a 900 lb. Commercial range, into the basement (exterior entrance six steps down). I always use a local Piano mover for these kinds of jobs. They handle this kind of weight daily. They know how to protect the home and the piece being moved. They always bring the right equipment and plenty of strong backs and they I find them to be a bargain for what they do.

Hap_Hazzard

Fred said:

I always use a local Piano mover for these kinds of jobs. They handle this kind of weight daily. They know how to protect the home and the piece being moved. They always bring the right equipment and plenty of strong backs and they I find them to be a bargain for what they do.

I can testify to how much of a challenge it is to move a piano without damaging it or the building you're moving it into/out of. Those things are heavy! I got roped into moving a borrowed piano into a theater where my sister was giving a performance.

We had a crew of "strong backs-weak minds" assembled and were halfway up the front steps when someone from the theater came out and told us we had to take it in through the rear intrance.

The rear entrance was up a wrought-iron fire escape.

At this point most of our "crew" took off, and I got out my "come-along" and with a few strategically placed planks and a mover's blanket, I ratcheted that sucker up the fire escape and hauled it inside.

Never again.