spark ignition series 1003-600A

HEATON

this cont. is on a Utica DVI50BB Need a guide for testing that control and others like that also the test for function of the pilot burner/sensors. If Tim has a manual I'll buy it. A down loadable would be nice. I had all of this and was a instructor in HVAC but office closed and manuals are stored away. Nuisance lock out after 3 yrs w/no probs. Reteach an old dog old tricks please

Robert O'Connor_12

First thing first. Is anything at all happening? Is it attempting to spark? Does fan start & does the circulator run? Is thermostat set to & calling for heat? I'd first check & make sure there's a good ground, then check voltage btw C on transformer & the N.O. contact on pressure switch. If that's good, check for voltage btw 24V & 24V Ground. If it has power there, recycle thermostat (turn off for at least 15 - 20 seconds) then in about 30 seconds check for voltage btw the PV & MV/PV. If no power, control is bad. If there is power, look to troubleshoot pilot assembly. You must do this too to rule out if it is indeed the control. If the ceramic end of electrode is cracked this could be cause of no heat condition. If not cracked, if you do have spark & gap is right (0.125) and in gas stream, change control.

Good Luck!

Robert O'Connor/NJ

HEATON

thanks. Bob All common known possibilities were checked... Looking for more technical specifics. Unit fires and cycles many times during this cold wheather and does so for a week to 10 days then wil go into a hard lockout. Checked and re checked the usual : vent system, negative pressure developed by the exhauster, pressure switch, cat spraying on ground connection etc. Wanted the microamp value and test procedure for the pilot/senser and control (downloaded that this AM) Average big boy Co would just replace the 3 suspect items (350.00 dealer cost ) + labor + mark up=$1000.00 and wait to see if it worked. I'm a stubborn old tech and want to see a test telling the tale. Dont care whose money it is cant waste it. Appreciate the feedback,Irish, would hope to return the favor. JH

Tim McElwain

Run a new ground!

ChrisJ

Tim McElwain said:

Run a new ground!

After endless problems in cars and electronics going back 80+ years I find it completely amazing we are still using the chassis of equipment to carry current.

Apparently Panasonic plasma tvs such as mine which was made in 2013 are known for blowing out boards due to screws loosening up over time and the boards get a bad connection to the chassis.

Yes, 2016 and we still have not learned NOTHING should use the chassis to intentionally carry current because sooner or later it will fail.


/rant.

JUGHNE

Just an almost off topic side note for the ChrisJ /rant:
Some early table top 5 tube radios had one side of the power cord connected to the chassis. They were in a wood or plastic cabinet with knobs of the same material. I learned at a young age that if the knob was missing and you got a shock to simply reverse the non polarized plug in the wall. (that probably wasn't in the owner's manual)

BobC

Using the chassis as ground was done back in the day to cut down the number of wires needed. Some of the early 50's equipment copper plated the chassis to make it easier to solder to.

The problem usually happened when they depended on a rivet or screw for grounding, the smart money punched out a tab that you could solder to - that was a reliable ground.

Bob

JUGHNE

I think that was the cost cutting design in some heating equipment, expecting the pilot tubing or burners to bring back the DC signal for the module to see. Saved 18" of wire per furnace !

ChrisJ

JUGHNE said:

I think that was the cost cutting design in some heating equipment, expecting the pilot tubing or burners to bring back the DC signal for the module to see. Saved 18" of wire per furnace !

Yes, 18" of what, 18AWG wire?
They should be ashamed and to be honest, being this is the only area I really have any real knowledge in, it makes me wonder what other areas they cut cost in.