Utica SSC A01 Igniter Error

john p_2

Module hasn't arrived yet. Just keep resetting, but seems it works only when I disconnect the DHW TT wires then reset the control module. After its running a while I then insert the DHW TT wires and it stays operational for about 12-24 hrs...I believe Rich & John are coming today.

todd_ecr

John, i just tracked the shipment. The new module is on the truck and scheduled for delivery today.

Rich_49

John,
Please refresh my memory , does the indirect have an aquastat or a sensor installed ?

4Johnpipe

Rich he has an aqua stat. I've been told.

john p_2

Todd received the module, thank you very much. As luck would have it I cannot find my manuals user or installation/operation....want to download one for John & Rich's visit today but there are 10 IO's and 4 user manuals...which one do I need for the guys?

todd_ecr

http://www.uticaboilers.com/products/boilers-condensing-gas/ssc-wall-hung-stainless-steel-modulating-condensing-boiler

Go to: Current documents > Installation & Operation manual> SSC IOM Rev. M

todd_ecr

You should have received instructions with the control. If not, here they are. After the control is installed, make sure you select your correct size, Model 75. With the new controls you will see that as soon as the unit is powered up.

todd_ecr

Here it is.

john p_2

Yes,thank you I did received the install instructions. And will be downloading and printing the Rev. M

john p_2

Update - Installed the new control module, did a combustion analysis (minor adjustments made - burning a little lean) and tweaked the system settings. Haven't had any error messages, everything appears to working well.

A big thanks to John Langan & Rich McGrath - Langan's Plumbing & Heating, LLC Howell, NJ for their support throughout this project but mostly their patience with me and all my questions, lol.

Also, I cannot say enough about the support I've received from ECR/Utica both on the old system removed for their warranty coverage and the recently installed SSC-075.
Thanks to Todd at ECR for your patience, rapid response to all my questions and for sending me the new control module - all much appreciated.
Will be trying to complete all punch list items as soon as possible - new condensate pump, relief on the HTP, permanent lighting and base & crown moldings; only kidding about the crown molding!

I posted the combustion analysis numbers as we printed them out - see attached.

todd_ecr

Glad everything worked out John. Looks like it's dialed in pretty well. CO is a little high in high fire but within spec(200ppm). Keep me posted with final pics and enjoy those low gas bills!

john p_2

Thanks Todd and will keep you posted for the finals.

Yeah $66 last month for PSE&G (2800 sq.ft.) we'll see this month but the big difference is comfort. No more thermostat set backs, just leave all stats set to 68 degrees and forget about them - even the garage!

4Johnpipe

Todd I actually had a lower reading on first test of around 75 PPM on high fire. Then on low I had to raise it from about 7.8 to within range. The second high fire resulted in a minor tweak with the 175 PPM result. I was a little confused with the higher reading myself.

4Johnpipe

One more note I am impressed with the boiler and have noticed when venting vertically I typically see a higher PPM result...perhaps the heavier gas pools at the low point of the venting...

john p_2

Only minor issue I have - would love to have the digital display panel on the outside of the cover. Or, at the very least, a window on the cover to see it and not have kids & others who shouldn't be touching it, having access to it.

jonny88

What a beautiful install,great work.Todd came through for me also,very nice to have support out there.

john p_2

Thanks, a little embarrassed that I haven't finished yet. Want to tweak a few things...I hate those cheap thermometers on the return heating zones...thinking I will make my own panel with LEDs for each zone, maybe why I haven't finished yet!

Rich_49

Very nice work John P . Closest I've seen yet to what I drew . Thanks

Aaron_in_Maine

That display is just two wires you can move it just add a piece of thermostat wire.

todd_ecr

Aaron is right. You can remove the interface(pull the bottom out, then remove the sub base.). You can mount it to the wall next to the boiler, or run it up near a thermostat. The low voltage terminal strip has User Interface terminals.

Near future models of the SSC will have the interface accessible through the door.

todd_ecr

@4Johnpipe I tend to agree. The only thing that comes to mind with the higher CO levels is venting and I'm not sure I can explain why. It's interesting. The dynamics of the combustion process are often complex.

I wouldn't have had an issue bringing that down to 8.9-9.0% CO2 if it ran at a lower CO level.

I'll look into it a bit with engineering. All numbers in this case are within specification.

john p_2

Great info, funny, I do like the idea of moving it to the wall next to the boiler but I really don't like the way it will look there with all the other pipes - guess I will have to think about that.

john p_2

Ugh, just got another igniter error message again. Everything has been fine since I installed the new control module up to now...my head is spinning!

john p_2

Should mention we are getting hit with some severe weather right now - warmer temps but wind gusts 60 mph +

Ironman

John, can you post a pic of the vent termination?

john p_2

Sure, but will have to get it tomorrow, itso dark out now.

john p_2

Here is the vent termination

Ironman

Was there snow on the roof when you had the ignition failure?

The intake of the concentric vent needs to be at least 2 feet above the peak of the roof to prevent snow from blocking it AND to prevent the air foil effect that the roof causes during the wind.

john p_2

I couldn't raise it any higher in the attic and still make the connections...can it be cut as is on the roof and extended with 4" & 2" couplings?

john p_2

And no there wasn't any snow on the roof when I got the igniter error messages.

john p_2

My vent lengths are being questioned also, I may end up terminating thru a sidewall in the attic, as soon as the pipes are above the attic floor, to eliminate all these possible issues.

See the attached vent piping sketch and my calculations. I am forced to use the 2" pipe because of height restrictions in the basement.

I had thought about a sidewall termination but hate the way I've seen huge icicles hanging from them on other peoples vents.

Ironman

The concentric can be modified if the instructions for it allow. Just make sure you get the inner pipe sealed so it doesn't leak into the outer pipe.

Regarding your total developed vent length: when the instructions say 50' max for 2" and 100' max for 3", it means either or, but not a hybrid of both. Obviously, a combination of both may work to some extent, but the instructions don't give any formula to calculate that. You need to get Todd to run it by the engineering dep't. Also, the concentric termination has an equivalent number to factor in the total developed vent length.

john p_2

Thanks for your input Bob. I agree with what you say about the vent lengths and I believe Todd is running it by engineering. I thought for sure being very close to either side of 50% of the max length on both 2" & 3" I was more than good...we shall see.

Meanwhile, I have no heat. I believe the igniter ends are fouled and I do not see anything in the book for how to remove it so I can clean the ends..

john p_2

Found the igniter and flame sensor in the manual on line and sure enough both were suited up pretty badly, so I cleaned them with a combination of very fine steel wool & a brass wire brush.

Pressed the reset button and has been running since 6 pm tonite w/of an error code yet.

Aaron_in_Maine

The best thing to clean flame sensors and igniters with is a dollar bill it won't take away any of the material.

john p_2

A dollar bill, really? It wasn't easy with the steel wool; feel like I would've been trying to clean them for hours using anything less abrasive.....

Leon82

When I installed my tankless water heater I framed one of my basement windows and vented thru there because did not want to cut thru my rim joist. The vent was near the limit for equivalent length and I had some error codes because of failed ignition attempts.

I noticed the combustion chamber was cloudy and would clear up after it finally ignited. At times the ignitor would arc thru the insulation outside of the combustion chamber. I was cleaning the electrode constantly

So I finally cut a hole in the rim joist which reduced the vent to 6 equivilent feet. It solved my problem. I think the purge cycle wasn't clearing enough of the air out of the piping.

Ironman

If the igniter is sooted, then your fuel/air mixture is not correct.

john p_2

Installed the relief on the HTP today and also a new Saniflo condensate pump with a built-in tray for the limestone or quartz chips. I will post a pic of the igniter & flame sensor also.

Ironman

Is that before or after you cleaned the igniter?