Boiler Best Practices

cubicacres

Any suggestions for removing the draw rods? WMC tech support said there's 2 set on the EGH-85 we're taking out. If we get our new boiler ourselves, suggestions on bringing it down the stairs? Maybe get a heavy duty hand-truck or something else? Can we store it in the box in our basement for a few days before the install begins, or does it need to be opened-up right away after shipping arival?

Dave0176

JUGHNE said:

Dave, your last posting really made that removal sound easy.
My experiences were never that way.
The way things went for me was that nothing fell apart, (40 to 50 year old boilers) I used log splitting wedges to split the sections apart. Pound them in with 2 pound sledge, they would fly out heading for your head. It was like wrestling a cast iron pig; and eventually you realize the pig enjoyed it. Safety glasses, boots and heavy gloves seemed appropriate for the job.

And these were smaller boilers. Each section seems like a 100 pounds. (they were only 60) Someone suggested laying down old tires to keep from breaking the concrete floor. (Probably a good idea for larger sections.)

And for this it would weight up to $45-50 at the yard.

Your 100% correct, on push nipple boilers its a b****, on the modern Weil McLains with the elastemer seals, they come appart easily.

JUGHNE

Thanks Dave, now I don't feel like a 220 pound wimp anymore

Yes these were push nipples, the draw rods were not even tight.

I would suggest a sawzall to just cut the rods and don't stand in the wrong place if it falls apart. Lucky for you.

Note: so does this say something about the durability and longevity of sealing methodology between CI sections?

Fred

cubicacres said:

Any suggestions for removing the draw rods? WMC tech support said there's 2 set on the EGH-85 we're taking out. If we get our new boiler ourselves, suggestions on bringing it down the stairs? Maybe get a heavy duty hand-truck or something else? Can we store it in the box in our basement for a few days before the install begins, or does it need to be opened-up right away after shipping arival?

I don't know what kind of basement stairs you have but I doubt you'll be able to get it into the basement, in the box. Probably have to take it down to bare boiler block.

cubicacres

We can use the backyard trap door with the concrete steps that has one 90 degree right turn at the middle landing, then another left at the base of the steps into the basement. If we can manage to get it down there, id thee any reason we can't leave it in the box for a few days before we install it?

cubicacres

(is there) typo. I'm assuming there's no perishable materials with a new boiler that need to be installed or connected within a day or two, right? Our maybe a bit moist, but other than that?

JUGHNE

If you demo the old one yourself and haul it out in individual sections you will appreciate the weight of fully assembled item.

Bob Bona_4

Hatt is correct. Uncrate the new one, and strip it to the block. You do not need appendages busting off, adding weight, and getting damaged. The only time I'll bring in a whole boiler complete is if it's a clear walk in, or super easy wide minimal step access.

cubicacres

Removing the old one first to see how we feel sounds like a good idea. We removed a brick-lined furnace a few years ago, and ended up rolling it over iron window-weights to move it across the back yard. The 4 of us had 3-4 hours of fun!

It was suggested we mark the old waterline on the wet return pipes before removing the old boiler-anything else we need to memorialize before we remove the old boiler?

Alterntaley, could we just tarp-up the new boiler form the pallet, and keep it in our secure fenced-in backyard for a few days and wait for the new installer to help us with moving it in? I think the seller will deliver it with a lift-gate to our doorway (or backyard).

Fred

Covered with a water proof tarp should be fine. Keep it on the skid, up off the ground.

cubicacres

Maybe tarp-ing it up well for a few days if needed in the secure backyard, and waiting for the powered hand-truck & installer seems like a smoother way to go with less damage & injury risk.

Fred

Yep, but you'll still want to take the cabinet panels off. As Hat said, otherwise they will be damaged.

cubicacres

Any thoughts on how many hours the demo & removal of the old WMC EGH 75 might take if we have a sawzall or can get the blocks apart with standard rod removal? Any if things don't go very smoothly?

Dave0176

The Weil McLain EG75 only comes as a knock down. So basically the block is assembled but all the jacketing and controls are in seperate boxes, the burner draw comes in a box fully assembled and only needs to be slid into the boiler and bolted in with 6 bolts and nuts, and the gas valve needs to be installed, they include the collector hood and refractory cement to seal it. The block does weigh over 700lbs, get alot help moving it, and use a good appliance truck, or better yet see if your local rental shop rents powered appliance trucks, this makes life easy.

Dave0176

cubicacres said:

Any thoughts on how many hours the demo & removal of the old WMC EGH 75 might take if we have a sawzall or can get the blocks apart with standard rod removal? Any if things don't go very smoothly?

Once you cut the draw rods with a sawzall get a big pry bar and split the sections, Weil McLains come appart easy since there are only rubber seals between the sections and not push nipples. The individual sections weigh about 100lbs each.

vaporvac

My slantfin tr50 came as knock-down units, so no worries about the panels. I kept mine on the original pallets and wrapped in plastic for months before my install with no ill effects. I don't see why it be a problem.