Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.

Rate my install!

Timco
Timco Member Posts: 3,026
edited July 2015 in THE MAIN WALL
Laars Mascot 175. Just waiting on vent adapter to run vents. Have to strap WHs too.

Eliminate furnace, add hydronic coil air handler.

Just a guy running some pipes.

Comments

  • Abracadabra
    Abracadabra Member Posts: 1,948
    No drip leg (sediment trap) required at the appliances?

    Also, shouldn't the venting on the right rheem heater come in underneath where it joins, instead on on the side?
  • Paul48
    Paul48 Member Posts: 4,470
    It appears as though you are marrying old and new. How are you balancing the two? This is nit-picking, but I don't care for the T&P piping. Picture and un-manned firehose. I know... it's an exageration...but.
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,026

    No drip leg (sediment trap) required at the appliances?

    Also, shouldn't the venting on the right rheem heater come in underneath where it joins, instead on on the side?

    I couldn't get my rise coming in under it. This is typical here.

    The 1" gas line reduced to 3/4" then down the wall out of view to a manifold and drip leg. Test gauge there.
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,026
    Paul48 said:

    It appears as though you are marrying old and new. How are you balancing the two? This is nit-picking, but I don't care for the T&P piping. Picture and un-manned firehose. I know... it's an exageration...but.

    Ball valve on each return at connection to iron pipe. If one side is favored I can reduce that side. Wasn't before.

    No floor drain. I agree. But, we don't use a CW fill, just reserves in expansion tank so limited flood.
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • rick in Alaska
    rick in Alaska Member Posts: 1,243
    If you look at the tag on the boiler relief valve it shows that it must be in a vertical position, not on its side. Can be a liability problem if it went off, and or didn't go off. I see this a lot around here. Otherwise, looks great for a cramped work space.
    Rick
  • Paul48
    Paul48 Member Posts: 4,470
    If that's an old gravity conversion, it can be a challenge balancing the system, all by itself. Generally they require over-pumping to meet the flow requirements of the most remote emitters. Throttling is going to add more of a challenge.
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,026

    If you look at the tag on the boiler relief valve it shows that it must be in a vertical position, not on its side. Can be a liability problem if it went off, and or didn't go off. I see this a lot around here. Otherwise, looks great for a cramped work space.
    Rick

    Oops! I'll read that tag when I get back there. I see them horizontal all the time. Often right in the side of a boiler. Easy to add a 90 if I have space. Or cut it in on top of that first run.
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,026
    Paul48 said:

    If that's an old gravity conversion, it can be a challenge balancing the system, all by itself. Generally they require over-pumping to meet the flow requirements of the most remote emitters. Throttling is going to add more of a challenge.

    That 26-99 did great before. Hope it pumps the same. I did demo the 3" bull head tee it used to feed. I put the BVs on each side of the returns just to have some control since there's a 2.5" S&R heading off on each direction.
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • JohnNY
    JohnNY Member Posts: 2,761
    What are those capped connections on the top of the boiler? Surely those are air vent or relief valve connections, no?
    Are those water heaters in series?
    Does your local code allow bushings on gas piping? Mine do not. Not for many years.
    You need a check valve on that mixing valve. What you've got there is a cross connection now. A temperature gauge would be nice too. I'll not mention the heat trap.
    Expansion tank on its side?

    Looks nice and neat.
    Contact John "JohnNY" Cataneo, Master Plumber
    in New York
    in New Jersey
    for Consulting Work
    or take his class.
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,026
    edited July 2015
    JohnNY said:

    What are those capped connections on the top of the boiler? Surely those are air vent or relief valve connections, no?
    Are those water heaters in series?
    Does your local code allow bushings on gas piping? Mine do not. Not for many years.
    You need a check valve on that mixing valve. What you've got there is a cross connection now. A temperature gauge would be nice too. I'll not mention the heat trap.
    Expansion tank on its side?

    Looks nice and neat.

    Wow. Your codes are way different. The X tank is fine like that here and that's how I've piped every 3-way mix valve. A gauge would be nice. I'll add that. Bushings are totally fine here.

    That boiler has supply & return connections on top and bottom. Gas too. There's a vent up there factory supplied.
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • Harvey Ramer
    Harvey Ramer Member Posts: 2,217
    We aren't allowed bushings or close nipples or street ells on gas either.

    Tidy looking install. Sure it'll work great.
  • L Thiesen
    L Thiesen Member Posts: 54
    there should be unions between the water heater controls and the shutoff valves. The way it is now if you have to swap out one of the heaters how will you disconnect the gas?
  • Tim McElwain
    Tim McElwain Member Posts: 4,480
    Bushings must be flush bushings to meet code. Black malleable are not allowed as under stress making up pipe they will split.
    jonny88Charlie from wmassZman
  • 4Johnpipe
    4Johnpipe Member Posts: 479
    I prefer parallel piping as apposed to series piping for water heaters. I've seen one heater becoming the lead and it seems to burn out before the secondary. Also flashield CSST should have the metal embedded coating into the termination ends. As was mentioned it becomes a task to swap one out without having to shut down the gas main due to the gas cock location.
    LANGAN'S PLUMBING & HEATING LLC
    Considerate People, Considerate Service, Consider It Done!
    732-751-1560
    email: [email protected]
    www.langansplumbing.com
    jonny88
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,026
    L Thiesen said:

    there should be unions between the water heater controls and the shutoff valves. The way it is now if you have to swap out one of the heaters how will you disconnect the gas?

    Doh!! First time just using CSST to whip those in. Didn't even catch that!
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,026
    Thanks for all the notes fellas. It's all very good to know and even if not code here it all sounds like good practice. Can't believe I missed the gas shut off on WH thing. Oops! I'll bet my inspector would never have said a word. I'll change that on my next trip.
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • jonny88
    jonny88 Member Posts: 1,139
    Thanks for posting as this is how we all get better.I really like @4Johnpipe idea of water heating piping.Again different areas different codes so dont beat yourself up to muck.MA and NY are very strict but I would love to see a statewide code held to these standards and also world peace,,,,,,,,,