Rate my install!

Timco

Laars Mascot 175. Just waiting on vent adapter to run vents. Have to strap WHs too.

Eliminate furnace, add hydronic coil air handler.

Abracadabra

No drip leg (sediment trap) required at the appliances?

Also, shouldn't the venting on the right rheem heater come in underneath where it joins, instead on on the side?

Paul48

It appears as though you are marrying old and new. How are you balancing the two? This is nit-picking, but I don't care for the T&P piping. Picture and un-manned firehose. I know... it's an exageration...but.

Timco

Abracadabra said:

No drip leg (sediment trap) required at the appliances?

Also, shouldn't the venting on the right rheem heater come in underneath where it joins, instead on on the side?

I couldn't get my rise coming in under it. This is typical here.

The 1" gas line reduced to 3/4" then down the wall out of view to a manifold and drip leg. Test gauge there.

Timco

Paul48 said:

It appears as though you are marrying old and new. How are you balancing the two? This is nit-picking, but I don't care for the T&P piping. Picture and un-manned firehose. I know... it's an exageration...but.

Ball valve on each return at connection to iron pipe. If one side is favored I can reduce that side. Wasn't before.

No floor drain. I agree. But, we don't use a CW fill, just reserves in expansion tank so limited flood.

rick in Alaska

If you look at the tag on the boiler relief valve it shows that it must be in a vertical position, not on its side. Can be a liability problem if it went off, and or didn't go off. I see this a lot around here. Otherwise, looks great for a cramped work space.
Rick

Paul48

If that's an old gravity conversion, it can be a challenge balancing the system, all by itself. Generally they require over-pumping to meet the flow requirements of the most remote emitters. Throttling is going to add more of a challenge.

Timco

rick in Alaska said:

If you look at the tag on the boiler relief valve it shows that it must be in a vertical position, not on its side. Can be a liability problem if it went off, and or didn't go off. I see this a lot around here. Otherwise, looks great for a cramped work space.
Rick

Oops! I'll read that tag when I get back there. I see them horizontal all the time. Often right in the side of a boiler. Easy to add a 90 if I have space. Or cut it in on top of that first run.

Timco

Paul48 said:

If that's an old gravity conversion, it can be a challenge balancing the system, all by itself. Generally they require over-pumping to meet the flow requirements of the most remote emitters. Throttling is going to add more of a challenge.

That 26-99 did great before. Hope it pumps the same. I did demo the 3" bull head tee it used to feed. I put the BVs on each side of the returns just to have some control since there's a 2.5" S&R heading off on each direction.

JohnNY

What are those capped connections on the top of the boiler? Surely those are air vent or relief valve connections, no?
Are those water heaters in series?
Does your local code allow bushings on gas piping? Mine do not. Not for many years.
You need a check valve on that mixing valve. What you've got there is a cross connection now. A temperature gauge would be nice too. I'll not mention the heat trap.
Expansion tank on its side?

Looks nice and neat.

Timco

JohnNY said:

What are those capped connections on the top of the boiler? Surely those are air vent or relief valve connections, no?
Are those water heaters in series?
Does your local code allow bushings on gas piping? Mine do not. Not for many years.
You need a check valve on that mixing valve. What you've got there is a cross connection now. A temperature gauge would be nice too. I'll not mention the heat trap.
Expansion tank on its side?

Looks nice and neat.

Wow. Your codes are way different. The X tank is fine like that here and that's how I've piped every 3-way mix valve. A gauge would be nice. I'll add that. Bushings are totally fine here.

That boiler has supply & return connections on top and bottom. Gas too. There's a vent up there factory supplied.

Harvey Ramer

We aren't allowed bushings or close nipples or street ells on gas either.

Tidy looking install. Sure it'll work great.

L Thiesen

there should be unions between the water heater controls and the shutoff valves. The way it is now if you have to swap out one of the heaters how will you disconnect the gas?

Tim McElwain

Bushings must be flush bushings to meet code. Black malleable are not allowed as under stress making up pipe they will split.

4Johnpipe

I prefer parallel piping as apposed to series piping for water heaters. I've seen one heater becoming the lead and it seems to burn out before the secondary. Also flashield CSST should have the metal embedded coating into the termination ends. As was mentioned it becomes a task to swap one out without having to shut down the gas main due to the gas cock location.

Timco

L Thiesen said:

there should be unions between the water heater controls and the shutoff valves. The way it is now if you have to swap out one of the heaters how will you disconnect the gas?

Doh!! First time just using CSST to whip those in. Didn't even catch that!

Timco

Thanks for all the notes fellas. It's all very good to know and even if not code here it all sounds like good practice. Can't believe I missed the gas shut off on WH thing. Oops! I'll bet my inspector would never have said a word. I'll change that on my next trip.

jonny88

Thanks for posting as this is how we all get better.I really like @4Johnpipe idea of water heating piping.Again different areas different codes so dont beat yourself up to muck.MA and NY are very strict but I would love to see a statewide code held to these standards and also world peace,,,,,,,,,