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Weil Mclain GV4 boiler issues...

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Muskiematt
Muskiematt Member Posts: 3
I would like some advice on my gv4 boiler... Recently it has taken to occasionally "backfiring" when it fires up, it makes quite the racket and blows the air intake pipe off. Causes of this?

I can smell a slight hint of gas when the unit is running and plan to replace the gas valve. Suggestion on replacement make and model?

Also going to replace the control board, a 1013-100, as occasionally I have to "jiggle" a connection to get the unit to fire then its fine for another few months or year. Is a 1013-200 the board to use with the gv4?

Thank you for any help.

Comments

  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,075
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    Sounds like delayed ignition and could get much worse than you ever want!!

    Do you have a regular service done on the boiler.

    I suggest calling a boiler pro and pose all these questions and issues to them.
  • Tim McElwain
    Tim McElwain Member Posts: 4,628
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    You need to get a professional. Do not just replace the gas valve because you smell gas, have someone do a combustion test on the boiler and check all the controls. Yes the 1013-200 is the replacement. How many circulators are under the top cover of the boiler?
  • Muskiematt
    Muskiematt Member Posts: 3
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    Had the boiler guy out to check it already. He mentioned replacing the gas valve... One circulator on the unit.

    Intake vent clear of debris.

    Heating guy took a couple pics, said "yup, need a new furnace" and mentioned he was afraid he wouldn't get it back together if he ripped it apart. He was all about selling me a new "high efficiency" unit. Never opened his tool box. Then he left.

    Got another heating guy coming out, maybe this guy will do a combustion test... meanwhile I'm attempting to learn.

    What gas valve would be a suitable replacement for the discontinued White Rodgers model 36C98 type 303? Date code 9044 (pre-recall).

    Thank you for any info.
  • j a_2
    j a_2 Member Posts: 1,801
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    I might suggest you proceed with caution, couple red flags noted what you say about the guys who looked at is very typical ...I honestly know of guys that install boilers,then comes a problem,and they tell the owner, They are clueless in troubleshooing, Where u located maybe we can find some one
    Picture up.the boiler and post previous history..Good guys are out there but are getting harder and harder to find...


    .
  • tim smith
    tim smith Member Posts: 2,765
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    Few things you need a good boiler guy to do. Pull burner and see if any cracks or corrosion. Install new burner gasket if burner is ok and has been cleaned. Heat exchanger could very likely be fouled and are a bear to clean. The pin type cast iron heat exchanger gets scaled and deposits formed on walls and pins and restricts flow of gasses through boiler. The 1st salvation may be the burner/gasket. Then a complete combustion test. Check igniter for correct ohm value. Have the tech call tech support to get values and they are helpful on pointing him in correct direction. Depending on age and typed of system, after some service $$ spent, if heat exchanger is fouled, you may end up with new boiler anyway but hopefully not. Good luck, Tim
  • Muskiematt
    Muskiematt Member Posts: 3
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    Thank you Tim Smith. I have another company coming out to actually check the boiler over and do some testing. I am hoping its a bad burner gasket at worst but if the exchanger is fubar I can get all three heat exchanger sections for a decent price + install labor.

    I will post again after getting some eval and test results from the second boiler guy. I'm already more impressed with this guy just from talking on the phone. I think first guy does more stuff on the new build/contractor level vs service work.

    Thank you to all you guys for your comments...
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,075
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    How old is your boiler?

    What kind of flue/exhaust piping material do you have?

    Do you have one pump inside boiler and another pump(s) outside of boiler cabinet?
  • Tim McElwain
    Tim McElwain Member Posts: 4,628
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    I would not just without reason change a gas valve. The problem we have in this business today is all folks want to do is sell you a new one. When are folks going to learn how to troubleshoot and then repair equipment. The GV 4 boiler series is repairable. I am not going to give you a valve number to replace yours as I am not sure the valve needs replaced.
    RobGJUGHNEZman
  • RobG
    RobG Member Posts: 1,850
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    I agree with Tim. As well, unless it is covered under warranty, I have rarely seen a boiler that it was worth it to replace three sections and pay labor to do it. JMHO
  • j a_2
    j a_2 Member Posts: 1,801
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    I totally agree with last post
  • RobG
    RobG Member Posts: 1,850
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    j a said:

    I totally agree with last post

    Then why didn't you click the "agree" button? ;)
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,075
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    I have this exact boiler sitting in the corner of my basement and hope to sell it locally. New in 1995. Changed out to a modcon.

    I priced the same gas valve you have and it is very expensive. (wholesale price of valve 2 years ago was about 25% of wholesale price of boiler in 1995)
    Mine was starting to corrode the CI neck at the discharge outlet, it still have enough meat left on it to safely reconnect the discharge pipe.
    This was probably caused by condensation as a failure of the internal mixing valve that was to keep the return water hot enough to avoid condensation.
    After taking the boiler apart to check and clean as possible (without disassembling the sections), I can see that internal cleaning would be difficult. (As Tim Smith and an older posting said about this type of boiler commented that a "bear" to clean.) I can see why.
    A quick look inside the exhaust opening might tell you a lot about the condition of the sections.

    I did have to change the control module to the WM gold type. That was the only operational failure.

    Looking at the "Limited Lifetime Warranty" that came with mine in 1995 WM will sell you new sections upon payment of a proportionate charge that increases with the age of boiler. It reads as follows: 23rd year--65%, 24th year--70%; 25th and beyond 75%. And that is at list price that you pay. Plus you pay labor and freight to you. Other fine print indicates that if they want the sections back you pay that freight also. (they probably don't want the old returned to them).
    If the CI is ok I guess I would consider keeping it. You might be smelling gas fumes from poor combustion if your heat exchanger is fouled. New gas valve won't fix that.

    If you do keep it in service there is a fix for the failed mixing valve, it is in a WM bulletin.
  • j a_2
    j a_2 Member Posts: 1,801
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    RobG said:

    j a said:

    I totally agree with last post

    Then why didn't you click the "agree" button? ;)
    Cause I didn't, was that your post?
  • j a_2
    j a_2 Member Posts: 1,801
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    But why?
  • RobG
    RobG Member Posts: 1,850
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    j a said:

    But why?

    JA, you're losing me here.. I made a joke about the "agree" button. You must have a broken funny bone. Get well soon.
  • j a_2
    j a_2 Member Posts: 1,801
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    Sorry Rob. I did like it sometimes my humor is as dry as my steam pipes. Lol
    RobG