Near Boiler Piping Stolen by Copper Thieves
Anyway, the job ended up in my lap. So, with my copy of TLAoSH, the manufacturers installation guide and bunch of 3" and 2" fittings and nipples, I went to work. I completed the piping this past Friday, filled the boiler and fired her up! Everything seems to be working. The rads got hot, the burner cycled on the Pressuretrol and eventually satisfied the thermostat WITH NO WATER HAMMER at start up, mid cycle or end of cycle.
I would ask that the forum members review the before and after pictures I am posting and tell me if I have made any major screw ups. The steam main is in 3" and the Hartford Loop is 2".
I realize that the near boiler piping needs to be insulated. The thieves also stole the copper piping on the water feeder. That is the water feeder (what was left of it anyway) sitting on the boiler in the pictures. The boiler is being manually fed at this time. It has a probe type LWCO.
Thanks for your help!
Mike
Comments
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It looks pretty decent. Only questions I have would be:
Do you have enough (any pitch on that header/pipe to the vertical equalizer pipe) to encourage any water that gets into the header to move that direction?
Is there a skim port on that boiler? With that much new pipe, it will definitely need a skimming (or two or three) in a week or two.
I would have used a Tee instead of one of those elbows below the Hartford loop and added a full port valve there so the wet returns could be drained/cleaned periodically.0 -
Looks good. If te near boiler piping was copper before, they did you a favour!Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
You did a batter job than the people that installed the copper, and you did a better job than the guys who wouldn't touch it.
You're next one will be even better.
I know "Professionals" that would be proud to say they piped that.0 -
That is a wonderful job for your first go, you should be proud of your work. I would love to see the expression on the faces of those who turned down the job.
After it's been running for a while you'll have to skim that boiler to remove the oils that were introduced by the new piping.
Good luck with it and don't be afraid to ask us if you need some help.
BobSmith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge0 -
If those installers that didn't want to connect it, offer you a job, don't let them try to pay you in cash or pay $7.40 per hour, minimum wage. You're probably worth more than they are.0
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Fred, yes I did allow some pitch from the main after the tee in the direction of the equalizer. I also tried to pitch toward the tee from off the boiler but where that tee is connected to the main was "solid as Sears". You are absolutely right, I should have made provisions to clean the wet returns. I think I will do that. Thanks for the pointers.0
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Overall, as everyone says, It is a great job!0
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Thank you all for your support! I am fascinated by the "mysteries of the steam". All of your kind comments have boosted my confidence immensely. I hope that in the future I can do right by you guys!0
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Nice job on the piping. Most successful plumbers around here can't that good and yes most pipe it in copper because their LAZY.
Next time try your best to use cast iron fitting instead of malleable fittings. It's a lot easier to crack a cast fitting then trying to unscrew a malleable fitting on a steam system, when I see malleable out comes the sawzall.
Also I'd've liked to see you use both of those steam riser tappings, but I'd imagine getting the plug out probably would've never happend.
But anyway you did a fine job for your first time especially working alone without experienced help.
DL Mechanical LLC Heating, Cooling and Plumbing 732-266-5386
NJ Master HVACR Lic# 4630
Specializing in Steam Heating, Serving the residents of New Jersey
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/dl-mechanical-llc
https://m.facebook.com/DL-Mechanical-LLC-315309995326627/?ref=content_filter
I cannot force people to spend money, I can only suggest how to spend it wisely.......0 -
Cast also looks cool because it's "beefy". Nice install for sure. As many have said already most pros can't do that good.0
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Another question I have is...should I install a new water feeder to the system? This is a rental property and probably will not receive the maintenance or monitoring that it should. I was thinking possibly a Hydrolevel VXT. Should I also recommend a new LWCO?0
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If it isn't going to get regular checks, it probably should have a new water feed, with a meter on it like the VXT or a manual reset LWCO that will force someone to go down and look at it when they don't have heat.0
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Thanks Dave0176,
Thanks for bringing up the point about using two risers off the boiler. The boiler manufacturers piping instructions had a notice that said... "Steam supply must be on same end as controls. Return may be from either end."
The controls are on the left side of the boiler and the riser is on the right. This appears to be violating the piping instructions. I called a TM from a local distributor of Weil McClain products in STL. He did not have the answer to my question but said he would contact a rep from Weil McClain and this rep would call me back with an answer. Never heard back. Dave, I stared at that plug in the left hand steam tapping for sometime wondering what it would take to get that plug out. I was alone on the job...I made the decision to pipe it from the existing riser. I would like to know the reasoning behind that requirement. I suspect that it has something to do with the pressuretrol sensing and riser being in close proximity to each other to provide proper sensing of system pressure?0 -
You could have used both risers but it would have been very, very difficult getting that plug out on an older boiler. I think you'll be fine the way you set it up. I believe the manufacturer wants you to use a specific tapping if you intend to only use one riser but it is not relavent if using both.0
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We are all happy you wrote those books!0
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Thank you "Mr. Holumun".
Every Fall I enjoy sitting down with your book to visit with the Dead Men. What a fascinating science and time that must have been!0 -
I'll tell ya even new from the factory their a bugger to get loose. A lot of times either the 36" or 48" pipe wrench has to come out. Now on an old boiler that's been run for years, you'd probably have to lay the boiler on its side, then with a 48" pipe wrench probably jump on it and it may loosen. Or youll just shave the hex off the plug. LolMRC said:Thanks Dave0176,
Thanks for bringing up the point about using two risers off the boiler. The boiler manufacturers piping instructions had a notice that said... "Steam supply must be on same end as controls. Return may be from either end."
The controls are on the left side of the boiler and the riser is on the right. This appears to be violating the piping instructions. I called a TM from a local distributor of Weil McClain products in STL. He did not have the answer to my question but said he would contact a rep from Weil McClain and this rep would call me back with an answer. Never heard back. Dave, I stared at that plug in the left hand steam tapping for sometime wondering what it would take to get that plug out. I was alone on the job...I made the decision to pipe it from the existing riser. I would like to know the reasoning behind that requirement. I suspect that it has something to do with the pressuretrol sensing and riser being in close proximity to each other to provide proper sensing of system pressure?DL Mechanical LLC Heating, Cooling and Plumbing 732-266-5386
NJ Master HVACR Lic# 4630
Specializing in Steam Heating, Serving the residents of New Jersey
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/dl-mechanical-llc
https://m.facebook.com/DL-Mechanical-LLC-315309995326627/?ref=content_filter
I cannot force people to spend money, I can only suggest how to spend it wisely.......0 -
Nice Job.0
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