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Need help tweeking a Knight WHN

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Andy_27
Andy_27 Member Posts: 17
Hi,
My new house(new construction) has a Knight WHN boiler with baseboard radiators.

During the last cold snap it had a little trouble keeping up in one room. What would be the best was to increase the water temp a little under these conditions.
1. Use the boost parameter
2. Use the shift reset curve parameter
3. Another parameter I have overlooked

Also - the heating contractor used a G. Alpha pump set to Auto Adapt mode in the secondary loop. When I questioned him about this he said the factory rep OK this and it would work just fine. Could I be getting too low a flow ?

This is a four zone system using zone valves with an indirect DHW set for priory.

Thanks

Comments

  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,376
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    Are you using setback on your thermostat(s)?
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • Andy_27
    Andy_27 Member Posts: 17
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    No - Thermostats are simple Honeywell T8775A's
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,376
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    Boost is designed to help compensate for using setback. Something that should not be done with a mod/con.
    The reset curve, along with other parameters, is really not something that a HO should be adjusting unless he's had some instruction on it. Nevertheless, if you know how to do it, I'd shift it about 10* higher to start with.
    You could also try closing some of the dampers on the BBs that are closer to the stat.
    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
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    Does the cold room have a lot of windows? Were all the other rooms comfortable at the time? Is this baseboard series-looped?
  • Eric_32
    Eric_32 Member Posts: 267
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    What size boiler (model) and what size house? I prefer the ramp delay over the boot temp parameter if a multi zone house.... We have put in dozens this year..
  • Andy_27
    Andy_27 Member Posts: 17
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    The cold room is the master bed/bath. Its on the North end of the house (also has the longest run from the boiler). The boiler is a WHN-110. The house is 3500 sqft. 2x6 construction, raised ranch. Part of the issue (I think) is that a kick space heater was used in the master bath. It only activates when the master has been calling for heat for a long time. I plan on getting a low temp aquastat for it.

    I hadn't considered tweeking the ramp delay.

    Andy
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
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    Is the master suite on its own zone? What about the rooms with southern exposure? Longest run from the boiler is a huge deal if the baseboard is series piped. I'd look at splitting the loop if that were the case. A direct return system can also have impaired flow to its furthest emitters. An inexpensive IR thermometer and some black electrical tape can tell you a lot in about an hour. The fact that you're on a raised foundation gives you some options to remedy the imbalance.
  • Andy_27
    Andy_27 Member Posts: 17
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    Master suite is on it own zone as are the rooms with the southern exposure. The baseboard is series piped within each zone. The IR thermometer (and readings) are now in the debugging plan.
    Splitting the loop would mean tearing down ceiling drywall on finished lower level so I am trying to avoid it.

    Thanks
    Andy
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
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    The small series loops created by your zoning should negate most of the rationale for splitting loops. I'm still curious what the supply and return temps are in that zone as compared with the others.

    What kind of baseboard is this? You might look at changing some of it to a higher output design of the same length, which should require minimal finish disturbance.
  • SWEI
    SWEI Member Posts: 7,356
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    You could also try running the master suite on a separate reset curve.
  • Ironman
    Ironman Member Posts: 7,376
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    Andy said:

    The cold room is the master bed/bath. Its on the North end of the house (also has the longest run from the boiler). The boiler is a WHN-110. The house is 3500 sqft. 2x6 construction, raised ranch. Part of the issue (I think) is that a kick space heater was used in the master bath. It only activates when the master has been calling for heat for a long time. I plan on getting a low temp aquastat for it.

    I hadn't considered tweeking the ramp delay.

    Andy

    You need to order a low temp aquastat for the toe kick heater. This is your problem, not the boiler. The toe kick comes from the factory with a high temp aquastat that doesn't kick in until about 130*. The low temp stat kicks in at 110*.

    I just had to do this on two of them we installed. I do it on all of them now.

    Bob Boan
    You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
  • Zman
    Zman Member Posts: 7,569
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    These are all goods points.
    I would also suggest trying different settings on the Alpha. I have not had great experiences with "auto adapt" You might see how it works in constant pressure 2 or 3.
    Carl
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
    Albert Einstein