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Steam boiler leak and turning itself off
oliwier
Member Posts: 2
It looks like I have intermitent pilot ignition system on a burnham steam boiler (natural gas) and <a href="http://surpluscityliquidators.com/view_product/28871/187">electronic low water cut-off</a>. Here are the pictures of my furnace: <a href="http://imgur.com/a/qFgUF#0">http://imgur.com/a/qFgUF#0</a>
I noticed some water around the furnace, seems to be leaking a little every day. Also, it shuts itself off before it reaches the desired temperature. I have to restart the thermostat to turn it back on, most of the time it does not create enough pressure to push steam to 2nd floor. Sometimes, with multiple restarts, it works.
Last night, when i turned it on i noticed that at first everything turned on but after 5 minutes it turned off. 20 seconds later there was some clicking. Then it turned on again, then minute later it turned off totally. Any ideas on what I can do to fix this situation?
I noticed some water around the furnace, seems to be leaking a little every day. Also, it shuts itself off before it reaches the desired temperature. I have to restart the thermostat to turn it back on, most of the time it does not create enough pressure to push steam to 2nd floor. Sometimes, with multiple restarts, it works.
Last night, when i turned it on i noticed that at first everything turned on but after 5 minutes it turned off. 20 seconds later there was some clicking. Then it turned on again, then minute later it turned off totally. Any ideas on what I can do to fix this situation?
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Comments
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jeeze...
I am not a pro... just a homeowner. But copper piping coming out of the boiler is a no no...
You header may not be 24" above the waterline.
And I cant tell from the pics, but I think you may have a wet steam issue with the way your header and takeoffs are configured... but we need another picture to prove that...
Has this boiler ever functioned properly or are u a new homeowner?
I think you may want to call in a pro.0 -
Copper
The header is piped in copper and it looks like the joints have failed. COPPER SHOULD NOT BE USED ON STEAM HEADERS. The repeated heating and cooling lead to failed solder joints and can destroy the boiler itself if both steam outlets are used.
If the boiler is intact that header has to be redone in threaded steel, copper can be used below the waterline but not on the header. This is going to be expensive but you have no choice at this point.
Where are you? Perhaps one of the pro's is nearby and can evaluate the problem for you.
BobSmith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge0 -
leaking boiler
in the meantime, you should turn down the pressuretrol as low as you can go. a system this size should heat with a few ounces.
how much capacity [on the glass height] is leaking each day?
you may want to overfill up to the header and watch for a couple of hours to see where the leak is coming from.--nbc0 -
leak is not from steam boiler
ok, so the leak is from the hot water boiler next to the furnace (not the steam boiler) and I am getting that 40 gallon boiler replaced today. I have emptied the water out of the steam boiler and refilled it. it seems to be working better but i did notice that one of my radiators upstairs is leaking.
BTW, this boiler has been working for the last 3 years without me even touching it and it has been working like this for the previous home owner so not sure what you guys are talking about in terms of copper.0 -
Furnace?
From your pictures it looks like you have a hot water heater sitting next to your steam boiler. A furnace heats air in a forced air heating system.
I say this only because you are the proud owner of a steam heating system. Steam systems are unlike other heat systems. 99% of the heating contractors out there do not know anything about steam heating and should not touch your boiler. The person that installed your boiler is one of them. Steam boilers experience huge temperature swings. The mixture of cast, copper and solder on your header will eventually fail. Yes it works now, that does not make it right.
You immediate problem sound like it is related to ignition but it could be a number of things.
I would start by purchasing "You Got Steam Heat" from this site. This will give you the knowledge to do basic repairs yourself. More importantly you will know how to tell a real steam heating contractor from a knucklehead.
Best of luck,
Carl"If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
Albert Einstein0 -
On the copper...
Folks who have put up with my ramblings for a number of years will know well that one of my faavourite sayings is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". That, however, does not apply to using copper for steam piping -- because that is a case of "if it ain't broke, it will be". It may have been serving satisfactorily, more or less, for three or more years. That does not mean that it will continue to do so. The biggest problem with copper headers is invisible: the stress they put on the boiler. Boilers are made of sections, and the sections are held together in various ways. But they are not intended to be pried on several times a day by the expansion and contraction of the copper. Sooner or later the joints between the sections will leak; whether this is a big leak or not depends on many things -- but they will leak, and most often above the water line. These leaks never get smaller with time.
Yes, most of the folks here tend to be a bit on the perfectionist side, but we do like to see things done right, and we hate to see things which are relatively easily fixed!Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0
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