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SUBMERGED boilers and water heater. what absolutely needs to be replaced?

Joseph_4 Member Posts: 255
HI. I'm a heating contractor in NYC. I live in the Rockaways on Long Island. I have lots of customers who both Boiler and water heater have submerged either partially, some fully in salt water. I'm working on one customer"s boiler and told him, I'm replacing all controls electrical, gas valve, pump etc that have been under water. am cleaning up  all burner tubes. After replacing everything it still isn't lighting off smoothly all the time. I wont let him use it until its burning properly. Its natural gas.

On the GAS end: I replaced the gas valve and thermocouple. I removed the pilot orifice- it was clean. I emptied out water from the pilot tubing and blew out what ever water was left. I removed   all  the burners tubes and  emptied them out from water and wiped them down and  put them back. I cleaned the burner manifold tube and  soaked the water as much as possible  with paper towels and cleaned out the burner manifold orfices. The pilot is burning nicely a clean blue flame. 

PROBLEM :When I turn the boiler on, on a call for heat when the main valve opens up some of the time theres a delay of 2-3 seconds and the flame lights with a small boom/explosion, but sometimes it works smoothy.

 I tried to adjust the pilot flame thinking that the pilot flame thinking that the pilot flame was a little  small and  I found it already at its maximum before I touched it.

I  obviously did not leave the customer like that. Shut down boiler.That's where I ended last night

I'm going back shortly.  my plan is totake a new  change and put in a new  VR8300A  which is its gas valve and to soak the burner tubes in warm water and wipe them down. Any information anyone has as to what's wrong  would help me greatly. I've never had a flood situations like these in my 6 years servicing people so any pointers would be greatly appreciated, Thank you.


Joe Hardoon

HHI Services LLC


  • TDR
    TDR Member Posts: 5

    I would check the flue, also combustion air. Also you might check your incoming voltage, and make sure that there is not a floating neutral.
  • Joseph_4
    Joseph_4 Member Posts: 255
    Thanks for input

    I abandoned this job, told customer we need to order a new boiler and ordered it today

  • Empire_2
    Empire_2 Member Posts: 2,343
    OK, please stop.

    Do not soak burners or anything else.  Normally, (and this is fresh water not salt) All operating controls MUST be changed out for the simple reason that it's operation is now compromised due to the flood.  This includes and is not limited to gas valve, all electrical controls, any damaged wire etc...  Remember, all manufacturers will void ANY warranty claims due to water damage.  Even if you think it''s OK.  Your GV should have been the first thing to go.  Having said that, make sure the entire manifold is clear and dry...  Not just dry.  I mean take it apart and make sure.  Things that don't see water need not have you add to it to clean it...lol.  The goal is to dry,dry,clean and dry.  If there is a relay,?...replace that to.  I don't care how it seems.  cover yourself.  This is protocol and playing it safe for the customer.  After all is done then check all pressures, amp draws, etc....  Hope that helped a little.


    Mike T.
  • Keitho
    Keitho Member Posts: 1
    Gas boiler partially submerged in salt water

    Boiler was partially submerged n salt water, gas valve was submerged but electronics were n untouched. So 2

    weeks later I clean the burner tubes, manifold orifices, and Remove the small tubes at the gas valve. Electronics were not submerged. I spray WD-40 into the 2 small holes in the gas valve and-reconnect the small Tubes. i Also clean the pilot light tube. Unit lights and runs fine all day, cycles on and off, no problems. At 9Pm, I hear a strange noise: the gas is burning as it exits the manifold orifices. I shut down and restart, no Problem. What might be causing his? I'm thinking that the gas valve should be replaced as It was submerged. Thoughts?

    Thank you
  • Zman
    Zman Member Posts: 7,443

    I think you missed the point of this posting. Of course your gas valves are shot. It is likely the refractory is damaged. Maybe the electronics  are OK, maybe not. Once you replace all that, what is left? If your valve was stuck in the open position your house would have exploded.

    When a car has been damaged to the point that the repairs cost more than replacement, It is totaled. It is the same is true with your boiler.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough"
    Albert Einstein
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