Field vent damper concern.

cunam

Hello All

I'm using Burnham steam gas boiler, my question is can I change the electric vent damper into the normal vent damper? In my opinion,the more simple the more better because the electric one is easy broken and when it happen, it make the boiler stop running too.Thanks for your help.

Mark Eatherton

Define...

a "normal" vent damper. If you are referring to a barometric vent damper, versus an electronic flue damper, they are not the same and don't serve the same purpose.



Why do you want to do this?



ME

JK_3

Whats normal?

I am not aware of a vent damper that is not electric( except for barometric for oil)

You can eliminate the damper but it lowers the efficiency tremendously.

There is also a switch on the damper to leave it open all the time , when a damper becomes defective you can usually set the switch to stay open then open it manually with a plier and get the boiler to operate this way.

Be aware that on many systems eliminating it is not possible if the system has been operating because the controls have a memory that became locked in once the damper was installed and operated.

Henry

Liability

The apliance is certified with an electric vent damper. The removal or tampering with  of the electric damper exposes you to various liabilities if an incident should occur. It is there not only as an increaser of overall efficiency but makes up part of the safety circuit of the unit.

JK_3

Safety?

I could be wrong but I believe  the purpose of the damper is to stop heat-loss up the chimney between cycles. As to the connection to safety, the controls will not allow the boiler to fire if the damper is not open.

Jamie Hall

Well...

electric vent dampers do make a difference in overall efficiency.  And, if the electric vent damper is specifically called out as part of the boiler, I suppose that Henry is right -- you'd have to keep it operational.



Pity.  I wouldn't have one on a bet; the reliability just simply isn't there.  To be blunt, I've never had a properly maintained oil burner fail, assuming it hasn't run out of fuel.  On the other hand, I've never had a properly maintained electric vent damper not fail.  And I can't afford that.  Maybe it's just me...

Tim McElwain

Location, location, location

move the damper closer to the chimney or vertical vent and its life expectancy goes up about 75%. It is heat that cause the the little "sync" motors to fail and heat that damage's the little printed circuit boards and also causes the end switches to not make completely. I have had four different dampers on test after being moved two years ago, these failed at least once a year before this move. They are still going after two years.



As far as the damper being a part of the install that is correct and removal of it changes the design parameters and he who removes it is liable.

Tim McElwain

Cunam welcome to HeatingHelp

you are new here and we are glad to have you. As Mark stated you need to be more clear in what you are asking, the vent damper is not the same as say the draft hood or as Mark mentioned the barometric (automatic draft control) they all have different functions and purpose. Try restating your question and we will see if we can help you. Check out my posting about location!

Tim McElwain

JK we did used to have

thermal vent dampers years ago, they are not allowed any more there were also mechanical dampers at one time also no longer around.

icesailor

UL Listings:

You are correct in what vent dampers do but not in making them ineffective.

The "appliance" is "Listed" with UL and will have a raating and listing. If the "listing" includes a vent damper, it must have the vent damper in place and working to keep the "listing". If one removes the vent damper or relocates the damper to a place that isn't specifically in the manufacturers approval to get the "listing, it is no longer "listed" and becomes an unlisted appliance. The approval by most AHJ's, require a UL listing. It then becomes an unlisted appliance. If there is a problem, and someone has modified the "listed appliance", someone could be on their own as far as liability insurance is concerned.

If you call the appliance manufacturer and ask them if you can remove the the part, they will tell you absolutely not.

Or how my insurance company and a lawyer told me long ago.

cunam

Thank you all.

Sorry for reply too late.Thanks for the opinions of all of you.

JK_3

now that you mention it

I do remember the manual vent dampers of years ago but I was under the impression  that they were used to assist in maintaing the proper coal fire. I am I correct or was there another purpose.

One of my first bosses had told me (30+ years ago) when I had asked about the first on that I saw "its to keep the animals out when you shut down for the summer". 

Tim McElwain

What has been

posted here are not opinions I am sorry to say. They are facts you better pay attention to or someone could die.

Tim McElwain

Thermal dampers

came out in the 70's one of the best was made by a company called Ameri-therm, they were not used on coal but on natural gas equipment. They have four quadrant bi-metal blades that opened on temperature and then when the call for heat ended they would cool and close. They were banned in the early 80's due to a couple of incidents caused by thermal damper failure. Ameri-therm was never involved in the failures but were banned with all the rest too bad as they did a great job.

bill_105

Tim - Just for clarifacation

I've always just stuck the damper right on top of the draft hood It's what I've only seen. So it's okay, to say, stick a 2 foot piece of pipe on first then the damper? An inspector won't get all excited? It sounds okay to me.

I replaced a damper last week and used a universial wiring harness. What got my attention was how long the cord was. I didn't measure it, but there was like six feet of it. I wonder why so long?