Leaking of dark water

GeraldX

Could really use some advise here: I have a steam system with cast iron radiators in a 2 family home. On one side of the house (only), I have dark murky water ejecting from either the cut-off valves or the pressure relief valves on the side of the radiator. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions......

Charlie from wmass

They are not relief valves

They are air vents. Are the supply valves open? What has changed previous to the spurting water?

BobC

Piping, pressure, and gauge glass

Do you know if the main vent is working on the steam main that feeds those problem radiators? has anything happened that might have caused that main, or the pipes it feeds to move? the piping should have a slight slope to allow condensing steam to flow back to the boiler.



What does the water in the boiler sight glass look like? is it bouncing up and down? What pressure does the gauge on the boiler show when the system turns itself off?



We need answers to these questions so we can "see" what is going on.



good luck,



Bob

GeraldX

More Info

Because the first floor was getting to hot, some of the valves were turned off. they still drip a little bit of water. I will check the gauge for water levels and color. I will provide more info upon that assessment. Also the boiler automatically pumps water when needed: how often do I need to drain the water?

nicholas bonham-carter

overheating radiators

if this is 1-pipe steam, the inlet service valves must never be closed.

if you are not getting even heat, then there are other areas to look at. i suggest you buy some of the steam books from the shop here, which will help you diagnose/repair steam problems.

in the meantime, work at getting your pressure down to ounces, and checking your main [not radiator] venting

your system, when properly maintained should be even, quiet, and economical.--nbc

Jamie Hall

Really does sound like

one pipe steam, with the "pressure relief valves" (vents) on the radiators.  If so, as NBC notes, the valves to the radiators must always be fully open, or all kinds of odd things go wrong.  So step one is to open all those valves.



Now, if you have rooms which are too hot, on many vents you can slow the venting down, which will keep steam from getting to the radiator as fast.  On some, you can't.  On almost all vents, if you want the radiator to stay cold, you can turn the vent upside down and that will turn it off!  Or, you could put thermally controlled vents on those radiators -- but that's a bit pricey.



If the vents are spurting water, condensate isn't being allowed to get back out of the radiator -- again, valves fully open.



Check your system pressure -- no more than 2 psi; 1.5 psi cutout and 0.5 psi cut in is better.



If the leak on a radiator valve is around its stem, you may be able to tighten the packing nut (gently, gently -- no more than is enough to stop the drip!



You ask about water supply to the boiler.  As a general rule, it should take no more than a gallon a week or so -- or significantly less.  If it's taking more than that, you may have a problem... as to draining, there is a low water cutoff (I hope) on the front of the boiler, with a "blowdown".  That should be blown down once a week or so, until the water coming out is more or less clear (doesn't have to be perfect).  Do it in spurts.  Shouldn't take more than a gallon or two.  There is no need to drain the whole system as part of normal operation.