Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Really beginner questions!
Robbie
Member Posts: 41
A few dumb beginner questions:
How important if pressure testing the boiler prior to installation? Don't they do that at the factory?
What position should the pigtail be in? Currently, it is at a weird angle, as received in the box... Should I turn it looser or tighter to get it into a different position?
What gauge wire should I run to the boiler from the breaker box(replacing both)? Does it have to be armored cable, or is regular stuff ok? Manual says it is 15 amp...
How can I tell if the boiler is Standing Pilot or Spark Ignition?
What is best to reseal around the collector hood? (mine has a gap around it, as though it has shrunk...)
Thanks for your patience and kind answers!
Robbie
How important if pressure testing the boiler prior to installation? Don't they do that at the factory?
What position should the pigtail be in? Currently, it is at a weird angle, as received in the box... Should I turn it looser or tighter to get it into a different position?
What gauge wire should I run to the boiler from the breaker box(replacing both)? Does it have to be armored cable, or is regular stuff ok? Manual says it is 15 amp...
How can I tell if the boiler is Standing Pilot or Spark Ignition?
What is best to reseal around the collector hood? (mine has a gap around it, as though it has shrunk...)
Thanks for your patience and kind answers!
Robbie
0
Comments
-
I can approach
a couple of your questions.
The wiring from the breaker box to the boiler must conform to your local code. Most codes permit armored cable, which I prefer; most also permit the plastic variety, which I dislike because mice can chew on it. In either case, you must have a separate breaker for the boiler, and the wiring must be the proper gauge for the breaker. I would be inclined to go 20 amp and 12 gauge... I might add that I'm not really keen on do it yourself wiring, but...
Pressure testing prior to installation isn't really needed. Leak testing afterwards is.
There are a variety of very good furnace cements which you can use to seal the exhaust to the chimney, if that's what you're after.
The pigtail, like all plumbing, should be square and neat.
After the whole thing is set up, you should have a qualified technician with the proper training and tools check and adjust the burner and all related connections and controls. That is definetly not do it yourself territory.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
sealing the hood
most boilers come with fairly complete installation instructions. the manufacturer should have definite instructions for sealing the draft hood, and sizing the wiring, etc.
as far as the pigtail orientation goes, it is now less important, than in the days of the mercury-switched pressuretrol, which could be inaccurate, because of the heat deformation of the pigtail, throwing it off the vertical axis. it may have been turned to make it fit in the box.--nbc0
This discussion has been closed.
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.3K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 53 Biomass
- 422 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 90 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.4K Gas Heating
- 100 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.4K Oil Heating
- 64 Pipe Deterioration
- 917 Plumbing
- 6.1K Radiant Heating
- 381 Solar
- 14.9K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 54 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements