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Rebuilding Steam traps

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jsher
jsher Posts: 7
in Strictly Steam

I recently ordered some rebuild kits for 13 steams traps in my building. I am not a steam guy but after being here for a few years I realize there is some preventative and general maintenance that must be done. The steam trap kits seem cut and dry but there is tricks to everything. I am looking for suggested tool for knocking off scale in trap? Also what tool works best if the old gasket is stuck? I also read I should sand the area before applying the new gasket, what grit sandpaper?

I also like to add blow-downs to all my wye strainers. What's the best way to do this? Just thread a short nipple and add a valve with a plug? I really want to know what brand and style valve is suggested.

Lastly I noticed this setup appears to be missing a relief valve in the last picture? Unless there is a reason for that I could be unaware of?

Thanks for any input! I am just a custodian who has only figured out these terms and info from being in this building and reading up on how these systems work. I realize steam can be very efficient when maintained. From reading through old posts here it sounds like there is plenty of buildings like mine that have never done any preventative maintenance and only acknowledge things when they break.

trap.jpg wye.jpg valve.jpg

Comments

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Posts: 18,149

    Do the first 2 traps have a vacuum breaker at the inlet?

  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Posts: 7,578
    edited September 18

    never seize is your friend.

    On the bolts

    On the gaskets

    On any and all moving parts

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Posts: 18,149

    you can remove the gaskets with a razor blade or gasket scraper or even a chisel, hold the blade almost parallel to the surface and be careful not to gouge in to the surface. you can use scotchbrite to remove what won't scrape off. On engines and gearcases and such you need to wash them well after using scotchbrite so you don't get the abrasive in to the internal mechanics but that is less important with steam.

  • pumpcontrolguy
    pumpcontrolguy Posts: 79

    Short Nipple, Valve, and a backup plug works perfectly for blowdown off the wye strainers

    mattmia2
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Posts: 18,149

    in any case you want to put a cap on the valve in case someone bumps the valve and opens it.

    Mad Dog_2
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Posts: 21,083

    On Low pressure steam use a steam rated ball valve.

  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Posts: 7,578
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1904128#Comment_1904128

    is t that what’s LOTO is for?

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Posts: 18,933
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1904130#Comment_1904130

    Nope- he's talking about someone accidentally bumping the valve while working on something else not related to the steam. Always use a plug.

    Co-Founder, All Steamed Up, Inc.

    Semi-retired

    Baltimore, MD, USA

    mattmia2
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Posts: 7,578
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1904132#Comment_1904132

    We never used Ball Valves on steam. Always OSY gate valves. Can't "Bump" Thewm

    PC7060
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Posts: 21,083

    @pecmsg No one is going to use an OS &Y on steam traps unless it is HP steam. The price would kill any job.

    And they even make carbon steel ball valve for HP steam.

    jim s_2
  • jsher
    jsher Posts: 7

    Any recommended brand of never seize? Thanks for the input everyone. Just ordered some gasket scrapers and I will get some scotch brite pads too.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Posts: 21,083

    Any brand of never seize is ok. Auto part stores have it. A small can goes a long way.

    pecmsg
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Posts: 18,149
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1904373#Comment_1904373

    you can get it in a tube too which is probably more the quantity they need. wear gloves because it sticks to your hands as well as it sticks to metal.

  • jsher
    jsher Posts: 7
    IMG_7481.jpeg IMG_7476.jpeg IMG_7057.jpeg IMG_7058.jpeg IMG_6988.jpeg IMG_6981.jpeg

    thanks for the input everyone. Really enjoyed doing these traps and realized how needed the rebuilds were. Cleaned out all my strainers real well too. These were some of the worse traps. I have moved to the downstairs now. Less traps but some different style ones. I’ll post some questions in this thread.

  • jsher
    jsher Posts: 7
    IMG_7788.jpeg IMG_7794.jpeg IMG_7795.jpeg IMG_7796.jpeg

    I’d like to get a rebuild kit for this as well. It’s obviously a different setup that the ones I’ve done with the where the face comes off with the 6 bolts. This has pipes going into the face. How do you rebuild this style ?

  • jsher
    jsher Posts: 7

    I also I had one trap that was different. It was 75 psig. I’ve attached a picture of its location. Any idea why this my only one that not 15 psig? I am not sure if this picture helps. My humidifier is to the right.

    IMG_7786.jpeg IMG_7787.jpeg IMG_7783.jpeg
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Posts: 18,933

    What is that big 2" trap connected to?

    Co-Founder, All Steamed Up, Inc.

    Semi-retired

    Baltimore, MD, USA

    mattmia2
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Posts: 18,149

    traps should be sized by condensate they will be carrying, not pipe size. usually a trap that matches the pie size is very oversized. if the trap is oversized the valve will only open a little and the water flow through that tiny opening will erode the seat.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Posts: 21,083

    Take the bolts out and pull the back of the trap off to get at the innards.

    a 75PSI rated trap has less capacity.

    For instance (I am just throwing #s) a 2" 15psi trap has a max rating of 15psi and lets say it does 500lb of steam/hour

    a 2" 75 psi trap has a smaller oarfice to help it close against 75psi but because of the smaller oarfice it can only do 250lb/hour. It will work at the lower pressure fine but at a lower capacity than a low-pressure trap of the same size.

    As far as trap sizing goes a drip trap that only drains piping (not equipment) is sized by the steam pressure differential across the trap and the condensate formed by heating up the pipe, valves and fittings on the pipe it is draining. rarely is a trap larger than 3/4" needed.

    A trap that drains the equipment is size by taking the lbs of steam/hour that the equipment condenses and applying a service factor to it to allow for warm up. Service factors can range from 1.5 to 3. Usually a service factor of 1.5-2 is enough

    So if a unit heater condensed 200 lb of steam/hour and you use a service factor of 2 you would select a trap that would handle 400 lb/hour with the trap differential pressure. (Diff between the supply and return press)

    mattmia2
  • jsher
    jsher Posts: 7

    the 2” is my steam return

    IMG_7856.jpeg IMG_7857.jpeg IMG_7854.jpeg
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Posts: 18,933

    Is that a huge air handler?

    Co-Founder, All Steamed Up, Inc.

    Semi-retired

    Baltimore, MD, USA

  • jsher
    jsher Posts: 7

    yeah that’s the air handler

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Posts: 18,933

    Makes sense. I rarely see them that big- last one I saw like that was in an old department store building.

    Co-Founder, All Steamed Up, Inc.

    Semi-retired

    Baltimore, MD, USA

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Posts: 21,083

    That is not exactly piped right.

    The AHU looks like it has 2 steam coils in it with the returns connected together into 1 trap. No right.

    If it has 2 coils it should have a separate trap on each coil.

    The outlets of the two traps can be tied together.

    I don't know if that AHU is taking in all outside air or some OA mixed with return air but either way having 1 trap on two coils can cause freeze ups or cause 1 coil to work better than the other.

    The reason is you can't control the condensing rates of two coils. One may need the trap open while the other coil wants it closed. They don't always see the air at the exact same temp or air quantity This can cause condensate to back up into the "idle coil" and freeze or hammer.

    I can post some more info if you want.

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