Plumbing in new steam radiator
trying to re plumb new radiator. Do no have enough room to twist valve tight in place. Bonet will not come off. Anyone have solution for this issue Attached is photo. Nothing is tight in photo. Can’t get valve to turn and tighten hits floor/or wall depending on angle you try.
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Is this one pipe rad? Can you slid the rad to the left a little?
Your 90 ell should be a reducing 90 of 1 1/4 X 1", this will allow the condensate to drain back better.
Raise the rad up on blocks so you can screw the valve on it.
Add a 1 1/4 Black union between the valve and new 90. Use short nipples.
That bonnet should unscrew but looks like you already tried.
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that bonnet will come off
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@JUGHNE solution is the way to go.
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Perhaps use a 90° valve and put the bushing in the radiator which is the way most of them are done. Plenty of choices.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bluefin-RVST100-1-FIP-x-Male-Union-Steam-Angle-Radiator-Valve
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@ChickenLeg You will indeed need to remove the bonnet, also known as the stem assembly.
The wrench marks on the "flats" of the bonnet show some effort in removing it. Keep going. The bonnet might be tighter than you would expect. After you get it apart, you should have all the room you need.
Oh…and one other thing: open the valve all the way to open, then back it off a quarter turn. This might make it easier to take apart.
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Forget the valve and use a union
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Yeah…I like that too. Great idea. @ChickenLeg Add a union between the elbow and the valve. Easiest way out.
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I actually meant instead of the valve. I am a big believer in eliminating unnecessary shut-off valves, on residential one pipe steam systems. They really have zero function in most scenarios. Even the best ones, have a tendency to leak. Most people only shut the shut-off valve, when the shut-off valve is leaking. Which sort of defeats the purpose. If you want to stop the radiator from heating, you are much better off getting a high quality 1/8" quarter turn valve and put that before the air vent. Dahl makes a nice one.
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Precisely
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