Spacepak loses 24 volts after brief power glitch, returns if 240 volt breaker cycled off/on
Have a Spacepak ESP-G air handler that works great, except when there are brief power glitches (power out for no more than a second or two). When this happens, the 24 volts seems to shut down (thermostat goes blank) and the only way to get it back is to cycle the 240 volt breaker off for a few seconds and then back on. Prior contractor added a PRO-24 '24V Circuit Board Surge & Spike Protection' that did NOT help.
Any thoughts before I purchase a new $400 control board? I feel like the control board may have been replaced in the past without fixing the problem. It is NOT the thermostat, as it has been replaced and there is no 24 volts to it after these power glitches.
Thanks. Jon
Comments
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a safety’s shutting it down
https://www.icmcontrols.com/product/icm493/
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Thanks. This makes sense. Jon
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This may just be the way that the ESP-G air handler control works. I wonder if an inexpensive time delay-on-break control would solve the issue?
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Packard-PTD203-Adjustable-Delay-on-Break-Timer-6-Sec-to-10-Min
My thoughts are that once the power is interrupted, the power restore time can be artificially extended with a time delay of 90 seconds or longer. This would also offer modest compressor protection, since the condensing unit contactor (which is powered by the ESP-G transformer) would have a short delay before being energized again.
It is a low enough cost to try it and get rid if it if it does not solve your problem. Lower than the cost of a circuit board i might guess.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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I don't think this could handle the current I need. My air handler is on a 20 amp circuit with a FLA of 5.3 amps.
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The time delay is wired into the 24-volt circuit.
Although the power circuit is 240 volt the unit needs 24-volt power to start.
Next time before you reset the 240-volt breaker check to see if you have 240 to the unit.
Unless the breaker is tripping on the power failure resetting the breaker is not doing anything on the 240 volt side.
What you are doing is cycling the power to the 24 volt transformer and it is the 24 volts that is being reset
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Thanks to all. This makes complete sense and should work. We will see shortly! Jon
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After a brief power glitch, you really should determine the actual state the unit is in before developing a resolution plan. Surge & Spike Protection devices do not fix power drop out issues.
Example; is the 240 VAC actually missing, is the 24 VAC at the transformer actually missing, is the transformer 24 VAC present and the 24 VAC between the R and C terminals missing, fault codes, etc.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System1 -
Very good points. The problems are:
- These outage incidents are rare (but annoying, especially if I'm away from the house). More common during 'storm' season when there are more power issues, but still rare. I can't seem to duplicate them by simply tripping/resetting the breaker quickly.
- The air handler, of course, is in a very inconvenient attic that requires lots of work to get to (removing cloths from a closet…)
- I really do need to check the voltages and faults after the next incident (assuming it is not at midnight with a house full of people getting very warm!)
- Using an ICM493 will fix the symptoms as, with an appropriate delay time, it is essentially the same as cycling the 240 volt breaker (which does ALWAYS clear the problem).
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2. The air handler, of course, is in a very inconvenient attic that requires lots of work to get to (removing cloths from a closet…)
Then how do you expect a tech to properly service it?
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It can be accessed, but like many 90+ year-old houses, it was an afterthought. For a scheduled tech visit, I remove all the cloths, empty the closet, remove the closet rod, place a stepladder and pop the hatch (and it is then easy). The attic has the code required lighting, condensate pan, two pan drains, and the air handler is near the hatch.
It is just that storms and these power 'glitch' episodes never seem to happen at convenient times and dates. I was stating this just to explain why it isn't always easy for me to check the voltages and alerts after an episode.
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You could drop a 24 volt cable into the closet and connect R,W,Y, C etc to a small terminal switch located in a junction box
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my bet is the board isn't showing anything that is in the instructions, it lost power long enough to screw up the memory or the registers in the microcontroller but not long enough to drop reset so it reboots so it just sits there deadlocked. if you have the power conditioner mentioned earlier that can be set to make a brief dip in to a solid off for say 10 seconds that should do it. plugging it in to a small ups would also do it. putting a bigger filter cap on the control board may also do it.
it may be the thermostat that is doing it too, it could have dead batteries or a bad supercap, whatever it uses to keep the clock running for half an hour while you clean the filter.
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This is not really related to this problem; however, it has the same effect.
I was experiencing nuisance lockouts on an oil burner. After I was unable to detect the problem with the Honeywell R8184G primary control, I decided to install a Carlin 70200 Primary Control to see if the diagnostics would help pinpoint the problem — and they did.
The history stored in the control showed that there was a low-voltage condition occurring during the burner cycle that locked out the burner. The customer could reset the burner and restore heat (the customer was at the farthest point in my service area, so it was not convenient to get there instantly). Later that day, after about 7 or 8 burner cycles, I was finally able to observe and confirm the low-voltage condition. It also seemed to happen more often on windy days.
I told the customer my findings and asked him to contact an electrician to investigate the power problem and determine whether there were any other electronics in the home experiencing issues. The electrician later reported that there was no problem with the house wiring, and that was the end of it.
Then I remembered that the Riello oil burner uses a primary control design that operates using the back EMF generated by the burner motor while it is running. In other words, the burner motor itself generates the electrical power used by the control electronics, which isolates the control from momentary disturbances in the incoming power supply.
That means that even if there were a very brief electrical interruption — enough for a conventional primary control to interpret as a fault condition and go into safety lockout — the Riello control might never see the interruption because the burner motor continues spinning from its own inertia during the split-second outage, continuing to generate power for the control.
For lack of a better term, I called this condition “dirty electric” because neither I nor the electrical experts could positively identify the exact source of the problem.
Did I actually solve the electrical problem? Nope. But eventually it will either manifest itself in another way, or it never will. Either way, it does not matter much to me because the customer no longer experiences nuisance lockouts — and that is what the customer really cares about.
As far as your electrical "Glitch" is concerned, you may never find the cause and therefore always have the problem. If the $13 time delay gets you past it and stops the lockout problem, then I would call that a WIN !!!
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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I was basically referring to
" Prior contractor added a PRO-24 '24V Circuit Board Surge & Spike Protection' that did NOT help. "
as a resolution attempt.
But since it was mentioned in my direction; An ICM 493 type device which includes Surge & Spike Protection devices, does not fix the actual power drop outs. It is not a UPS. It appears it simply is a Band-Aid solution that shuts off the device for a period of time then restores the power, providing a clean power-up reset. This is all assuming the 240 breaker is not tripping. I'm not convinced that @Jon_23 has proven that the breaker was not tripping.
Why spend $$$ if a inexpensive strategy like @EdTheHeaterMan provided will work. Which is why I would identify the actual state the unit is in then develop a resolution plan. If the resolution is to spend as much money as possible buy a good quality UPS (and maintain it) or replace the unit with one that won't glitch.
If the game plan it just to keep trying things, the @EdTheHeaterMan idea is the least expensive and may be the easiest to install (other than access to the unit).
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
I appreciate everyone's comments and expertise. While I'm quite certain an inexpensive time delay at the 24-volt transformer would work, I'm going to go with an ICM493 on the line to the air handler for 2 primary reasons:
- As I explained, repeated access to the air handler is difficult and these outages are rare and very sporadic. The ICM493 can be easily mounted next to the service panel (in the basement) and in this location will be easy to monitor and adjust if needed.
- I'm also concerned that if I just add a delay timer to the air handler itself (which is 15 years old), when it is replaced (either by myself or a future owner, likely with a Spacepak due to the high velocity ducting) the problem could return. I say this because I've had this problem since the unit was new and I'm almost certain they replaced the control board (under warranty) because this problem showed up right away. The wiring was checked and the thermostat replaced (multiple times). Again, this is a rare problem, sometimes occurring only 1 or 2 times per season. I've just put up with it for years and adding the 24-volt 'Surge and Spike Protection' to the control board certainly did NOT eliminate the problem.
While I expect this is overkill, anything to eliminate the phone calls when I'm away "We had a storm and the AC is out and the thermostat is blank…" or coming back to a 90 degree house in August.
Thanks again. Jon
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Just to respond to 109A_5,
- I understand the ICM493 is not a UPS. I'm hoping it will detect the 'glitch' (they are obvious, the lights in the house flicker or go off momenarily, almost always during a storm) and open the contactor for the set period of time.
- The 20 Amp / 240 Volt Circuit breaker for the air hanlder NEVER trips during these events. I simply have to cycle it off and then on to get the control board in the air handler to wake up again.
See my prior comments as to why I'm going with an ICM493 rather than a $13 delay timer. Thanks.
Jon
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The ICM493 may do what you want, it really depends on its sensitivity to the drop out duration, which is not well published.
If you are experiencing flickering and actual momentary drop outs you may want to complain to the electric utility. If trees (etc.) are causing the primary phases to touch and a utility re-closure device is tripping and resetting and / or simply loose connections that can and should be repaired.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
the time delay may or may not start its timing during the brief power dropout, it isn't designed for that so you would have to look in to what is minimum off time is to start the sequence and how far the voltage has to drop before that off time starts. the power may not actually go out at all but just drop to say 25% and the timer might be just as happy with 6 vac as with 24vac to think it has power. it very likely is other primary circuits shorting and bringing the output of the substation down momentarily as a breaker trips or fuse blows. here dte was about 10 years behind on their 4 year tree trimming cycle so the shorts were happening all over the city, it was neglect of the whole system, not just a single problem.
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I agree that the ICM493 may not detect these events, but I think it will. It is designed to protect sensitive equiptment, like inverter mini split's. These events are long enough to cause my oven's digital clock to be flashing. I have been through it with power company (BGE out here) and actually have a new drop to the house in the last year. I don't have flickering lights or dropouts frequently, just sometimes during storms. Not all of these events 'freeeze' my air handler controller, just some. We wil see… Thanks Jon
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i think the icm493 is designed to detect those events if set that way. the littlefuse time delay module may not.
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The IMC493 literature states brown-out percentages not drop out duration.
My ICM203F is pretty fast. I have not done any actual controlled tests to measure the minimum dropout duration for it to keep the circuit open for the delay time.
As far as the utility power issue, in some places there other means to motivate the utility to repair their defects. And some utilities are more proactive than others.
If the utility power defects are not repaired they generally don't get better by themselves. They may get worse and you may simply loose power during some storm and it may not come back on until the utility gets around to restoring it. You may be the last on their priority list.
Personally I'd rather the repair effort is during good weather.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
I agree that there are no guarantees but I'm very hopeful. The power company (BGE) has been very good. As I mentioned, they replaced the very long drop to my house and put a recording meter on my line for over 2 weeks (of course nothing happened then!). Where I live (on the water in Annapolis, Maryland) power issues are common. Most of us have whole house generators for the really bad times. I wouldn't call these 'glitches' brownouts (not dimming, lights go out). Since it is almost exclusively with storms (and wind), I suspect it is from tree branches hitting lines and a recloser cycling. Again, these episodes are rare, but very annoying since the air handler controller locks up afterwords.
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My point is the IMC493 literature seems to define percentage brown outs or voltage droop, not short duration drop outs, to me there is a difference.
To me the power issues you describe are due to a lack of maintenance of the electrical system. Other than severe weather causing damage and outages, the power should not have any weather related interruptions.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
utilities can put a data logger on your power line, let it record for a few months. That would clear up the question of dirty power
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Again, they did that but only left it on for a little over 2 weeks. Sometimes a watched pot never boils! Again, I can go for months without it acting up. I won't declare victory until I'm good for over a year! (I can admit defeat if it acts up sooner!)
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there are probably some inexpensive loggers out there that yo could buy and hook up yourself.
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I kind of don't see the point of the data logger. I am convinced @Jon_23 is convinced that the power quality issue is real. I'm not convinced the utility needs to see Time / Date data since it is always storm related. If the data logger actually captures waveform data an engineer may find it interesting. Will it tell the Lineman where the problem is ? Probably not.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
it is very likely the situation that we had in michigan where the utility was giving the tree trimming money to the shareholders and once we started organizing to form our own public utility they suddenly managed to get through their 10 years of negligence
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IMO public utilities should not have shareholders, seems like a conflict of interests to me.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0
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