Triangle Tube PT 110 after recall
I had the recall done on my 13 year old boiler in October. Ran fine until about a month ago. Started getting occasional lockouts due to failed ignition. But now I am getting them more frequently so I did some digging. Took video of sight glass and attached a video. Also noticed the black foam around heat exchanger has melted. See attached pic. The flame doesn’t look healthy. Can’t find a new igniter online. As we know, TT folded. Does this recall really solve the issues we have with this boiler? The tech who did the recall says he is doing a lot of swap outs due to this issue and the recall wasn’t fixing the problem. He thinks that’s the reason they closed operations in the U.S. Am I looking at a replacement boiler soon?
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Those numbers look OK for propane, not natural gas.
What model is your boiler?I’m surprised to see so much debris on the HX cover as part of the recall is to remove the cover to replace the HX gasket/insulation piece.
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab1 -
The recall kit had solved the issues in all of them I saw get updated. While the recall certainly hurt triangle tube there were other business dealings that held them back as well. But yeah recalls for 13 year old boilers that the current owners of the company had nothing to do with certainly hurt them, especially since botched field repairs always result in the manufacturer taking blame legally.
are you on propane?
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I assume so yes, I just reached out to the tech who did the work to confirm. You are right, it is quite dirty but I do live on a dirt road so maybe dirt is getting there somehow. And yes propane
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Yes propane. Did you watch the video that was attached?
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the bolt that is near the rust spot is loose. How tight should it be. I could loosen with the extension and driver by hand. That must be part of the problem and the foam is damp.
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i don't know what bolt you are referencing.
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sorry, meant nut that holds on the top plate. It was loose so I definitely getting some bypass between the gasket and outside air.
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should be tight but you usually don't really need to use muscle to tighten them up. Bit tighter than hand tight.
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When the foam insulation is vanishing it may mean combustion exhaust is leaking out. I've had a few PT110 that begin leaking between the plastic flue collector and the stainless. Part of the recall is to put the fan on high and "bubble" around that plastic/stainless intersection. First question is, "how do you ever get bubble stuff on the backside?" Leaking boilers usually show developing rust on bare metal like screws and brackets and the foam starts vanishing right at the leaks, so if the inside looks great I don't "bubble".
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there is rust and the nut was loose. Tightened it up, I shoved some dry foam between the tube and the casing. to see if It still leaks. Still getting failed ignitions however..
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After tightening the loose nut on the plate, the boiler eventually fired, ran all night with 2 ignitions and fired this morning after a DHW call. Not sure if this was coincidence or not
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No I doubt it was a coincidence. It's no wonder that tech hasn't seen the recall fixing the issues….
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I mean, I don’t blame him, he knew about the studs notoriously snapping. I understand why it could be loose. Let’s just hope this fixed the issue. I tightened it down being very careful not to go too tight
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So today, I was in the garage when I heard a heat call. Took all 5 attempts to finally fire. The first ignition, there was fire for about 5 seconds then it went out, followed by 3 puff attempts and then the fifth try it lit and stayed lit. Not ideal but better than before.
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Have someone else - if possible - come out and check your gas pressure with a manometer.
And he should then do a combustion analysis to confirm the readings written down on the sticker on your boiler and with the figures I gave you before.
And please be careful tightening those heat exchanger plate nuts Hand tight and then one turn with your wrench. I've seen them break off when over-tightened. Install a CO monitor in or close to the room with the boiler.
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0 -
Gas pressure is a BS issue, a canard, a false theory. The gas valve regulator is negative pressure. And I've tested a 175 down to about 1" w.c. propane — no problems. This gas pressure nonsense had people re-piping — all a waste. Gas pressure has never been the cause of failed or delayed ignition.
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Mmmmm…..My experience with natural gas says it’s definitely an issue. That’s one of the first things technical support staff will ask you when troubleshooting. And often, correcting the pressure solves the problem.
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab1 -
Gas pressure 100% matters it's not even a question. the fact a unit CAN run out of spec is not evidence that gas pressure can't cause a failed ignition. I can't even count the number of times I have watched a failed ignition issue get solved by getting the gas train in spec. Just today we fixed a persistent issue by simply measuring the gas pressure, 3" wc drop at high fire, unit would drop flame signal , replace the regulator, flame is now burning within spec, flame loss issue is gone.
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