Triangle Tube PT 110 after recall

wrxz24

I had the recall done on my 13 year old boiler in October. Ran fine until about a month ago. Started getting occasional lockouts due to failed ignition. But now I am getting them more frequently so I did some digging. Took video of sight glass and attached a video. Also noticed the black foam around heat exchanger has melted. See attached pic. The flame doesn’t look healthy. Can’t find a new igniter online. As we know, TT folded. Does this recall really solve the issues we have with this boiler? The tech who did the recall says he is doing a lot of swap outs due to this issue and the recall wasn’t fixing the problem. He thinks that’s the reason they closed operations in the U.S. Am I looking at a replacement boiler soon?

https://youtube.com/shorts/iYWq_mvutZs?si=MHRMBUq7vfdSp_On

wrxz24

Alan (California Radiant) Forbes

Those numbers look OK for propane, not natural gas.

What model is your boiler?

I’m surprised to see so much debris on the HX cover as part of the recall is to remove the cover to replace the HX gasket/insulation piece.

GGross

The recall kit had solved the issues in all of them I saw get updated. While the recall certainly hurt triangle tube there were other business dealings that held them back as well. But yeah recalls for 13 year old boilers that the current owners of the company had nothing to do with certainly hurt them, especially since botched field repairs always result in the manufacturer taking blame legally.

are you on propane?

wrxz24

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1889317#Comment_1889317

I assume so yes, I just reached out to the tech who did the work to confirm. You are right, it is quite dirty but I do live on a dirt road so maybe dirt is getting there somehow. And yes propane

wrxz24

Yes propane. Did you watch the video that was attached?

wrxz24

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1889320#Comment_1889320

the bolt that is near the rust spot is loose. How tight should it be. I could loosen with the extension and driver by hand. That must be part of the problem and the foam is damp.

GGross

i don't know what bolt you are referencing.

wrxz24

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1889347#Comment_1889347

sorry, meant nut that holds on the top plate. It was loose so I definitely getting some bypass between the gasket and outside air.

GGross

should be tight but you usually don't really need to use muscle to tighten them up. Bit tighter than hand tight.

JMWHVAC

When the foam insulation is vanishing it may mean combustion exhaust is leaking out. I've had a few PT110 that begin leaking between the plastic flue collector and the stainless. Part of the recall is to put the fan on high and "bubble" around that plastic/stainless intersection. First question is, "how do you ever get bubble stuff on the backside?" Leaking boilers usually show developing rust on bare metal like screws and brackets and the foam starts vanishing right at the leaks, so if the inside looks great I don't "bubble".

wrxz24

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1889379#Comment_1889379

there is rust and the nut was loose. Tightened it up, I shoved some dry foam between the tube and the casing. to see if It still leaks. Still getting failed ignitions however..