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Issue with Honeywell R8182D

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warm_in_Westminster
warm_in_Westminster Member Posts: 3
edited January 20 in Oil Heating

hello heat heads,

I have a Honeywell Aquastat R8182D which doesn’t seem to want to take any advice from my thermostat. I’ve replaced the thermostat twice, and have ruled that out as being any problem. Right now I have the 2 thermostat wires disconnected, and the unit is turning itself on and off to keep the house at 70°.

My HVAC buddy has helped me over the phone, we’ve adjusted high, low and diff. settings with no resolution to this problem

Mechanically my system works fine, as long as you like it constantly at 70.

Can anybody suggest a solution to this issue so that I can actually adjust my temperature in the house with my thermostat?

If I need a new aquastat, I don’t see my R8182D still available through Granger’s or elsewhere.


Thanks everybody

IMG_8700.jpeg IMG_8752.jpeg

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Comments

  • tcassano87
    tcassano87 Member Posts: 116

    is there a domestic coil on this boiler?

    Is your circulator turning on when it’s calling for heat?

    What do you mean it works fine if you like it at 70?

  • warm_in_Westminster
    warm_in_Westminster Member Posts: 3

    There is no domestic coil.


    the boiler seems to have self-selected 70° as the temperature it runs at without a thermostat(or, with the thermostat connected, for that matter)

    The circulator pump immediately when the system fires up and turns off immediately when it . My other house lets the pump continue for a few minutes afterwards… This unit does not.

  • HydronicMike
    HydronicMike Member Posts: 300

    I'd like to see the burner, probably old AF?
    Time to step up to some modern controls. You'll need a new aquastat (simple hi limit, or modern aquastat), and you'll need a new primary control for your cad cell wires to land (f-f terminals).

    SuperTech
  • 109A_5
    109A_5 Member Posts: 3,724

    If you jumper the T-T together does the boiler and the circulator work as normal, regardless of ambient temperature ?

    image.png

    If not I would suspect the solder joints where these relays connect to the circuit board are failing.

    image.png
    National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
    Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
    One Pipe System
    tcassano87HVACNUT
  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 7,326

    There's no way the aquastat knows to keep the space at 70°. There's 2 things that can cause this. An intermittent short. Or the thermostat. They're the only thing that will automatically close TT on the aquastat to start the heat demand; circulator, and burner if water temperature is below the Hi setting.

    Do you have a meter to check for a short?

    I don't think the aquastat is the issue if the space is maintaining 70°. But like @HydronicMike said, that control is big $$$ if it is faulty. Its also has an obsolete 45 second primary. Look into upgrading.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 19,947

    Carlin 5020002S cad cell control

    Honeywell L4006A aquastat

    Honeywell R845A relay

    If you have 120 volts to your control and you jump T & T thermostat connections. the relay has to pull in (unless the high limit is open)

    The three controls above would be needed to replace what you have.

  • HydronicMike
    HydronicMike Member Posts: 300
    edited January 21

    @EBEBRATT-Ed Why that aquastat and the relay, and an older primary? Why not a standard aquastat or something more modern, and a modern primary?

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 18,330
    edited January 21

    This is what I'd use. You might have to mount a 1900 box for the GeniSys on this one, or add a J-box to the burner:

    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/176551/nice-job-beckett
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 19,947

    @HydronicMike

    I didn't look up prices but the last I knew the triple aquastat with the cad cell built in were horribly expensive.

    So he needs a cad cell control a high limit and a relay to start the burner and the circulator. i am sure there are other choices.

    The problem with the triple aqua stat is when one part of it fails you toss the whole expensive thing. An L4006a lasts …forever and so doesn't the relay. Why not list what you would use?

  • warm_in_Westminster
    warm_in_Westminster Member Posts: 3

    thanks everybody, you’re talking above my pay grade, so I’m gonna get my HVAC buddy involved and see if he can translate some of this.

    I really appreciate on this! Steve

  • HydronicMike
    HydronicMike Member Posts: 300
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1883214#Comment_1883214

    I didn't recommend replacing with the same aquastat. The price of the 3 components you mentioned are over $100 more then the price for the 2 better controls I mentioned.

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