Hydrostatic 3250-Plus C wire
Hi. Like similar threads on here, I’m trying to add a C wire to my 2-wire system. I don’t have a 24v transformer anywhere to tap off of, and while I have no problem adding a transformer to give myself a C wire I’ve read a few threads that mention needing a relay. So my question is, do I need a relay? If so, my only question would be, which wires are used for the load? I have added diagram and pictures for reference. Thanks
Comments
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The relay helps everything play nicely together. The relay coil is the load the thermostat sees, the relay contacts control the Hydrostat 3250.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
Perfect. That is totally doable. Before I install it like that, is it possible to use this product? If so, could you break down the wiring for me?
https://a.co/d/7WTkSB4
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I would say no. Both the load (Red) and the switching contacts (Orange) are on the 120 VAC side of that device. This device is for using a 24 VAC powered device that switches 24VAC with 24VAC wiring to ultimately control a 120 VAC device.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
Often transformer is near the thermostat unless all 3 wires are run through the building. The relay could be with the thermostat and transformer or at the boiler.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
This is what you want.
R (Red 24v) on a 40 va transformer to R on the thermostat.
C on the transformer to C on the thermostat and White/Yellow (Comm) on the RIB relay.
W on the thermostat to White/Blue on the relay.
Yellow on the relay to one thermostat Black on the boiler.
Orange on the relay to the other thermostat Black on the boiler.
As a side note, I see 2 circulators. The Hydrostat seems to be the zone that's getting the smart thermostat. Does the other zone use a line voltage (120 volt) thermostat, because I don't see a switching relay for it. If that second zone is calling, there's nothing to shut off the circulator if boiler temperature drops below the Low limit setting. And that's why you don't have enough hot water in winter.
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So I would still need a transformer with this relay? The one I pictured was a transformer and relay in one, which was why I was asking about it.
Also, when you say “black on the boiler,” where do I find those?And I’m not sure, but I’ve never run out of hot water in the winter
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Yes, you will need a seperate transformer. The one you show has line voltage contacts. You need low voltage contacts.
Sorry, no black wires. Different thread. Orange and Yellow go to TT on the Hydrostat.
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Do you know if they make a transformer/relay all-in-one similar to what I posted? If not, I will just use a regular 24v transformer.
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Here is a diagram you can use.
Yellow and orange on the rib relay would go to T & T on the hydrostat.
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That’s great. Thanks.
Is there an all-in-one transformer/relay that you know of that can be used?0 -
You can get what Honeywell calls a fan center which is a relay and transformer in one.
The rib relay is about $20, a transformer is about $30 maybe. So a fan center is about the same $. I like the rib relay because it has an idiot light to tell you the relay is calling. A fan center complicates thing but thats just me.
You mount a 4" square box bring 120v to it. Mount the rib relay and the transformer on the box bring the thermostat wires to it and two wires to start the boiler and your done.
See the attached fan center
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Products like the Taco SR501 switching relay (and others) have their own enclosure, so no exposed wires. There are extra features so you have to wire it up correctly.
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System0 -
I will do the research on both of those and decide which way to go. Either way you provided me with the info I needed so thank you to everyone. Happy Holidays
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Taco SR501is good but more $$$ easier to install though.
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