Peerless 63 Series... Discontinued???

@ethicalpaul

 but I have a strong distrust of Burnham just due to the fact that they are STILL offering the IMO flawed Independence line which again, IMO, should have been re-engineered or cancelled years and years ago given how fast it seems to rust out.

Me too.

There was a post here just a few days ago about an independence that failed installed in 2013 I think the op said.

They (all the mfgs) design a boiler that then go with that design for 20, 30, 40 years or more.

The HB Smith 28 the first one I saw installed was 1977 and they still make them today. A few changes but the sections are interchangeable.

Once they go with a design they ride it to the bitter end . If its bad they will still sell it and will only drop it if it will not sell.

The Weil McLain Gold oil fired is basically the same boiler they have made since the at least the mid 80s. Even though it is rubber gaskets it seems to hold up pretty well.

Utica/Dunkirk have been around for years as well. Any boiler can fail if neglected but they seem to hold up as well as anything.

Peerless (or the Boyertown Foundry whoever that is) has been making the boiler sections for Smith & Peerless ever since Smith closed their foundry in Westfield which must be 35? years ago.

Don't know what is going on with Peerless.

Thanks @STEAM DOCTOR, that would explain why it is showing discontinued from all the big online sellers—they all sold the packaged ones.

Does that mean that even the tiny 63-03 with just the two end pieces and one middle section will come on a pallet with all three sections separated and some rope and sealant and tie rods to let you build it all in the basement?

Thanks again for that clarification. So just the jacket and the rest of the trim pieces, that's pretty good. Everyone likes Legos!

First time time might involve a tiny learning curve. But it's really very easy.

Good that the 63 is still available.

doesn't timken make bearings…

@mattmia2 A pot type burner used kero or #1 oil and was gravity fed from a 275 no pump. It had a constant level valve, and the fire didn't go out. It was like a lantern with a wick almost. When the thermostat shut it down the constant level valve closed down but not off and kept an oil pilot. When the thermostat called for heat, it opened the constant level valve and the flame increased. Perfection Furnace were the ones I saw.

If it was Timken it was a different animal. They had a motor and it was a vertical rotary burner and fired straight up like a pot burner. The motor shaft spun and slung the oil out by centrifugal force.

Timkiens (and there were other vertical rotaries like torrid heat) were very efficient burners. Better than most gun burners at that time. They burned clean with a high Co2.

Pot burner just kept a small flame going and vaporized the oil based on heat.

Timken or any rotary burner vaporized the oil by pumping the oil into a spinning usually tapered cup. The oil got slung off the cup by centrifugal force.

i'd imagine what happens when someone presses the reset on the stack relay 20 times when it finally does light off was their demise.

I have a 22 year old burnham independence, I am trying to get a peerless 63-03, any insight as to who I might have to talk to or a distributor that would know what I’m talking about? I’m not looking for the peerless 63x.

My brother in law works in the heating industry and has made several calls to a few distributors to inquire but none have panned out. I am in central MA.

Worcester,

F. W. Webb

The Portland Group

Plumbers Supply

All say they are selling Peerless.

The Timken's ran with high efficiency. But gun burners used standardized parts and were easier to work on

@bburd I don't mind hot air heating.

After all ,as I see it in the end even when having an oil or natural gas heater the heated water gets pumped in radiators and then heats the air(by natural air movement or special radiators with centrifugal blowers).

And then start "the technical problems": on return in a normal non-condensing central heater the temperature must be 140 fahrenheit(60 Celcius) to prevent corrosion in the boiler...

Then there's the condensing oil/natural gas heaters that MUST have return water under100-105 Fahrenheit(40 Celcius) to get the condensing process going and manage to get those few percentages of efficiency from exhaust gases...

Might as well heat the air directly with a problem free burner(no nozzles to get plugged) or natural gas...

I have no ideea right now ,as I write this, of the efficiency on a natural gas/oil heater that heats air directly but having had to deal with this water return temperature problem, might as well heat air directly.

And no pipes, no 300 euros a piece radiators(for condensing units) for cooling fast the water to 35-40 Celcius, no corrosion problems ,no pumps, seems so good for me!

But as good as gun type oil burners may be I had enough of that!

Would love to see,have and use a rotary oil burner.

Except Sunflame big ones, even on internet I can't find ANY smaller ones...

A shame since they are simpler and able to burn higher viscosity fuels!

Thank you!

@Gabriel82 , hot-air is the worst way to heat a building. The moving air makes you feel colder, it circulates dust, dirt and germs, and there is no radiant heat transmission (like the sun) to warm you directly. The only reason builders use it is because it's cheap- they don't have to live with it.

"B" boiler in my opinion. Not is same league as Weil McLain, Peerless